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Smoking Rtl250s '87


ludde
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Its a trials bike, trials bikes are made to ride off road. Unfortunately if yo try trials and unless you are very very good you will fall off. It usually happens when you have just painted the tank, polished the alloy of fitted new plastics.

ce la vie

Aye, but try and no dae that wi someone else's bike for Gawd sake!

Big John

PS: I know it wasn't you g4321, so don't panic! (it was actually Jimmy Mair, the daft ****!)

PPS: Depends how careful you are Brian!

Edited by Big John
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Honestly thought it was a GasGas swing arm but it was a ggod few years ago that I so it so the old memory could be playing tricks.

Sorry If I got it wrong a quick way to check would be if the bottom shock mount has been welded to the swing arm as the originals are cast it I believe.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just wanted to you all that the parts I changed didn't work. It is still smoking as much as before. I just can't understand where the oil is coming from. I've changed the valve stem seals, meassured the valves and the valve guides. Now I'm thinking there is a crack somewhere, but I can't understand where. It seems like the oil is only dripping into the combustion chamber when the engine is off. I just can't get my head around it :rolleyes:

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Ehh... I only had the top one off, never checked the other two... should have done that. But if they were upside down wouldn't it smoke all the time. It only smokes when it has been turned off a while.

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Yes indeed, I went back to the first posting and you did say it smoked on start up. My B40 does exactly the same!

If the piston rings were upside down fitted, the motor would continuously smoke, lifting the oil from the bottom end.

Big John

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I'm wondering if there is a very small leak all the time but it's only when the engine has been turned off for a while that the amount of oil gets big enough to produce smoke. But what can cause such a small leak :beer:

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I'm wondering if there is a very small leak all the time but it's only when the engine has been turned off for a while that the amount of oil gets big enough to produce smoke. But what can cause such a small leak :beer:

One possibility, if you have measured valves/guides and replaced seals, is that one of the guides may be loose in the head

or more likley scenario, one or more have been replaced badly and is not fitting very well, it may leak oil past the outside of the guide and the head when cold, but when hot become tight and not leak .

i know it`s a long shot, but if you have the head off again it may be worth while removing the valves and springs and building a dam from plasticine around the guide (but not up to it ) filling with paraffin or similar and seeing if it leaks through past the outside of the guide.

Just a thought...

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Hi....

If it helps I would look at the basics of Physic's

By what you are describing comes across it could be a small crack in the head or a head gasket fault, has the head been torque down correctly, has the head been checked is it warped, does it and the barrel need skimming?

My reason behind this is simple metal expands when hot thus minimizing the chances of a leak from a crack this will also helps tighten the fit between the head and barrel compressing the head gasket, could be enough to stop any tiny bit of oil getting through.

(I not saying there's a major failure of the gasket otherwise you would have other issue with compression, running etc)

When the engine /metal cools it will then retracts and then possibly that's when your leak occurs

I would pressurise the engine dry at TDC and both valves closed cylinder and see if you get any drop in pressure and then recommend you get it compression tested dry and wet.

Cheers

Simon

Keep us updated be interesting to know the final outcome!!!!

.........As I was writing this I see the previous post was added saying the same about the cold thing.... think its the way go and investigate........... possbily cracked valve guide ? I rekcon the Exhaust valve guide if any..

Edited by 250TLR
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I would pressurise the engine dry at TDC and both valves closed cylinder and see if you get any drop in pressure and then recommend you get it compression tested dry and wet.

Could you explain this a little more? Any ideas of an easy way to do it?

As I see it the two reasonable faults would be bad fitting of the valve guies and uneven contact point between head and cylinder, but the compression is very good so I'm leaning towards the valve guides

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BJ I saw your comment on youtube, and I agree, nothing wrong with the bike when it's hot and has vomited out all the excess oil, then it runs brilliantly

And you have three very nice looking bikes there, the RTL looks like a minter. I think Conny bought my bike from John Shirt but not exactly sure, is it the same with yours?

Edited by Ludde
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