superhondaman Posted January 6, 2008 Report Share Posted January 6, 2008 Rode the cub for only the 2nd time today but one of the main problems is the tyre to chain clearance, The s/arm has been lengthend & widened on the right but the left side is standard the clearance is very tight and i have extended the c/gaurd the stop mud being picked up on the chain and that worked but mud is getting between the c/guard and tyre and forceing it over to rub against the chain. I know you can space the engine over 5/6mm to get the chain away from the tyre or is it better to get another s/arm? (miller or Mcdonald) or get mine alterd more? Interested to hear how you guys have got round this problem. This is Midlands mud! dont suppose up north its such a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alt Posted January 6, 2008 Report Share Posted January 6, 2008 Hi Superhondaman,I have a genuine trials swinging arm on my cub but even using that it can problem if you use a normal type chainguard.To get over this I use a tubular type guard similar to what Montesa used to use but only on the top chain run.I made mine using 25mm electrical conduit.It works well.Cheers,ALT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted January 6, 2008 Report Share Posted January 6, 2008 Always been the big achilles heel for cubs. Seem to remember they originally used a 3.50 rear tyre. On my old Cub i spaced the engine over and moved the sprocket over using a spacer ring but even then clearence will always be a problem. Showing me age now but always remember the lads in the late 60's riding through every puddle and bit of water they could find to help wash the mud out. A twig always seems to help too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhondaman Posted January 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2008 Have thought about spaceing it over, about 5/6mm? think this might be the best soloution. Any one do a kit for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerroger Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 Martyn Adams of Serco fame used to modify the rear hub by cutting it in half and welding in a spacer so it occupies the full width of the s'arm. You can then build the wheel with the rim offset a bit further away from the chain (got to keep the two halves lined up correctly if you want to stand any chance of re-building the wheel, though). Don't know if the new Serco offers this though. I bought a rear wheel that had been widened to suit an Enfield at Malvern last year - unfortunately, it was too wide for a Miller s'arm so I had to un-modify it a bit . p.s. nice looking cub! (seen pottering at ESTC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franticfantic Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 A friend of mine is currently restoring his cub with a few mods if you like, one of his friends near by is pretty much known as the cub man now. You want it he will have or machine it, from engine casings for PVL's to widening the trials swinging arms an extra 10mm to modified oil tanks to go under your Fuel tanks etc, He is currently building him a rear wheel with a bantam hub not sure if its something do with the spacing due to the widening of the swinging arm, As the bantam hub is apparently wider and will look astatically better than a cub one or for the chain issue as mentioned above im unsure but im sure someone on here could elaborate on this more than myself, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhondaman Posted January 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 Mine has Whitton hubs and i think bultaco brake plates this fits in without any spacers. The wheel could not be off set anymore to the right without the tyre touching the shock. Do people have the left hand side of the s/arm widened as well? & move the engine over. Some pics of modified s/arms would be good? i will post some of mine asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 However far you move the engine over dont forget to keep not just the sprockets but the wheels in line Oh yes and you of course can only move the engine so far as the exhaust port will foul the downtube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie prescott Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 Hi Guys. Hi S.H.M. The "Scott Ellis" Replica bike that I am building uses a Cub Back end that I have widened by one inch on the right hand leg , without cutting anything. Also the sub frame at the top. The Bantam hub I have machined and fitted a 1 inch collar in the middle. The problem on the left hand side is the mountings for the shock (Needs pushing out at least 1/2 inch) to gain clearance from the chain and guard. As I want to keep the bike short, I have not lenghend the swinging arm, but I'm not saying that I will not have too. Blowing the mud of the tyre with the exhaust fumes does help a bit (Remember GOV132). and riding through puddles etc between sections,as OTF said ,but the works Cubs only did this to keep the motors cool and stop them from seizing, But we don't have to do that now do we. Progress? Hope this helps a bit. Good luck with the bike anyway. Will get some photos up soon. Regards Charlie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhondaman Posted January 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 Thanks for replys so far. Will be getting spacers for sprocket & engine sorted to move engine over 5mm will then have to space out footrest hanger etc, you do one thing and then you have two more things to sort out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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