zippy Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 Hey all you very knowledgable Sherco guys, HEY COPIE!! I am rebuilding my 2000 2.9 and am unable to find the torque specs for: 6 clutch spring bolts primary gear? (it's on the crank and connects with clutch housing) Clutch nut Case bolts clutch cover bolts I am pretty sure that I have the spec for the flywheel, cylinder base nuts and head nuts from the "Wayne's Guides" If I forgot anything else just throw them in your response Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 This is in the "Clutch Disc Replacement Manual.pdf" off the Sherco website. <<Install the 6 clutch springs, tighten the retaining bolts evenly, just as they were removed. Tighten to 5 ft lbs (7 Nm)>> Not sure if the others are that critical?? Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 (edited) Thanks Neo, I should have read a little closer in the manual. Edited January 10, 2008 by ZIPPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 (edited) Hey all you very knowledgable Sherco guys, HEY COPIE!!I am rebuilding my 2000 2.9 and am unable to find the torque specs for: 6 clutch spring bolts primary gear? (it's on the crank and connects with clutch housing) Clutch nut Case bolts clutch cover bolts I am pretty sure that I have the spec for the flywheel, cylinder base nuts and head nuts from the "Wayne's Guides" If I forgot anything else just throw them in your response Thanks Gee Zipper, let's see, would you like all that on NM, Ft/lb, or In/lb? How shouyld I know, I just buy a new one every year or two? AND, as you probably don't have the proper holding fixtures for the crank and clutch you will have a difficult time holding anything so you should have used a dremel with a mini cutoff wheel to mark the nuts and shafts so you can just use a 3/8 impact to zip them off and back on to where they were or slightly beyond on the crank and clutch and just tighten the case bolts with a 1/4in ratchet. Yet I digress, and did my best to look up this crap. Just for you! Flywheel nut and primary drive gear 73.2ft/lb Clutch nut 45ft/lb Case bolts(6mm), cyl head, 88in/lb Cyl base nuts(8mm) 195in/lb-16ft/lb Clutch cover/ water pump cover(5mm)bolts 48-55 in/lb Plastic ignition cover, just past snug! I would add that along with crank bearings and seals, you should inspect the water pump shaft and replace the shaft if grooved, along with the seals. Anyway, that is what I came up with, now you can call RYP to verify when you order your parts and correct me if I am incorrect! Edited January 13, 2008 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Hey thanks Copie knew you would have it. Just out of curiosity where were you able to find said info? There probably more good stuff there that I may want to know in the future. Ft/lb and in/lb is just fine thanks. Water pump is ok. not gonna call RYP, already got the parts and installed, just gotta slap it together. (plus I think they sick of me calling ) You almost sounded annoyed, come on admit it you enjoy this kinda crap. Seriously, Thanks Neo and Copemech I will be more comfortable with the numbers than just "Did I get it tight enough.... oh just one more turn.....SNAP! @%^!%!$!^!" Maybe it's an OCD thing who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 (edited) primary drive gear 73.2ft/lbAnyway, that is what I came up with, now you can call RYP to verify when you order your parts and correct me if I am incorrect! Yikes..I've just put mine on at 60ft/lbs..time to re-check everything Edited January 10, 2008 by HAM2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 You see, Zipper, there is secret code embedded in the early parts books. It is all there but you have to know how to read it. I'm serious, I would verify the numbers as these are what my computed conversions came up with. is Howard around? All sound about right though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Copie, I went looking, and that must be some secret code (or I are just dense......well could be that one) could not find it. again thanks alot Who's Howard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Copie,I went looking, and that must be some secret code (or I are just dense......well could be that one) could not find it. again thanks alot Who's Howard? Howard Wallace, send him a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 AAAHHHHH that Howard. Sent Email to RYP and Torque specs is correct. Great people at RYP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 AAAHHHHH that Howard.Sent Email to RYP and Torque specs is correct. Great people at RYP! That's great, unfortunatly I will have to tell them to ban you untill you buy some parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 copemech Posted Today, 07:13 PM QUOTE (ZIPPY @ Jan 10 2008, 09:03 PM) AAAHHHHH that Howard. Sent Email to RYP and Torque specs is correct. Great people at RYP! That's great, unfortunatly I will have to tell them to ban you untill you buy some parts! Have already bought many many parts my 2000 is going to run just like ...........well, a rebuilt 2000. I never knew you were high enough in the organization to have such a great amount of power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 Have already bought many many parts my 2000 is going to run just like ...........well, a rebuilt 2000. I never knew you were high enough in the organization to have such a great amount of power. Nothing wrong with a good 2000 model! Sweet bike! And NO, I may not, but I do encourage all to support your local dealers and RYP if you do not have someone local that you know and trust. Most of these guys work their tails off. That goes for all brands, as they are all good! I just try to point folks in the right direction! BTW, I was scorned by wifey last night for getting home late! When I told her I just needed to enjoy some quiet time after work looking up and trying to verify a few torque specs for Zippy, she totally did'nt understand! Oh well! You see I also have all these reference charts for comparitive bolt specs and such. Nevermind, just go with those and you should be fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 I should mention that I purchased all my bits through a local dealer that works with RYP or I get direct from RYP. OH my Cope I did not realize that I had caused you to get in trouble with the wifey, please tell her that you have done a great service for a fellow trials rider and saved this individual from catastrophically ruining his bike. (Is that piling it on a bit thick?) Yea, my wifey just don't understand how I can go out into the garage at 8 am to do a quick 5 min job on a bike and come back in the house around 10 pm asking when is lunch? I seem to lose track of all time when I get out there. Thanks again and have a good evening, morning, night whatever time it is when you read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 Although there have been few other comments from other knowledgeable folk on this thread, whether to agree or disagree with the specs I laid out here, the referance charts seemed to verify them, and if indeed they have been blessed by the folks at RYP then , once again I would think they would be safe specs for all if the hardware is in good condition. There is obviousy a problem if your stuff is worn out and strips out! As in stripping out your crank threads due to previous overstress! Yet this is seldom an issue. I always try to err on the safe side though! Once again I must state that even though my experience is somewhat vast, even in overhauling and repairing 2T race motors(mostly MX), I have never had reason to split the Sherco myself, yet it is very straightforward and bulletproof if you take care of it, and that says a lot overwhat is now a half dozen bikes that I have owned. I did replace a clutch, once! And you can say all you want about them Gassers, but I had to help a fellow a while back after his starter gear broke. What a CF of bits to just get the clutch side apart and back together! I'll not put up with that! It is a light bike, but! Anyway, in gathering concencus on this issue, I do find a need to compile the specs all in one spot. Maybe I should recommend it to RYP as an addendum to their already great list of helpful stuff! Or a stickie from Andy! Comments welcomed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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