kevin j Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 TY250/350 Monoshock: Loosening the bottom bolt, on the outside bottom of fork leg, also requires holding the inside damper rod, apparently at the bottom of the inside of damper rod. Top of damper rod doesn't have any visible hex ID. Manual and parts book refer to a special Yam tool part number (blank stare at the local dealer) but no idea of what it grabs into. Is it a hex, square, a 4 prong, or what? If I knew what size and shape I can weld something onto a long rod and reach down in there. Catch 22: can't get it apart without knowing what it looks like, can't see it until its apart. Any ideas or size and shape help? tks, kcj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wobbly1 Posted July 4, 2004 Report Share Posted July 4, 2004 I made up a tool for my old TY250 Pinky and I guess this will be the same. The damper rod is fixed to the bottom of the fork with an allen key that you can get to from the bottom of the fork but you'll probably not be able to shift it. You need to unscrew the damper rod from inside the fork using the damper rod holder tool which is basically a 22mm nut on the end of a long t-bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 File/grind/whittle...whatever, a taper on a broom handle, and tap it into the hex with a hammer. That'll be enough to hold it. Crude, but free. Is this the one that's the same as the hex on a sparkplug socket? I forget. Try it anyway. Put an extension in the socket end so the hex is pointing down and see if the hex fits the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29r Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 Use an Air Wrench , apply a little pressure pulling tube/leg apart while yer at it . I've wadded duct tape on the end of a long (enough ) 3/8" extension ( eerr.. i spose a broom handle 'wood' do ) to apply pressure on the rod to help out , but generally have always got it to come apart / together with air . Once you got it apart you can figger out a proper tool for holding it , if need be . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted July 5, 2004 Report Share Posted July 5, 2004 Dear kcj Here in OZ we call it a pneumatic impact driver or "rattle gun" and with one of those driving the socket head screw at the bottom end of the slider and with the fork leg assembled, the screw should loosen easily. If you need more force on the damper rod to hold it still, assemble the forks and wheel into the bike and compress the forks. A bike trailer and tie downs works well for this. Once you have done it once, you will probably be able to change fork seals in about 20 minutes next time. PS It is good in theory to make a special tool for next time but it is usually not necessary. David Lahey Australia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted July 7, 2004 Report Share Posted July 7, 2004 Dear kcjHere in OZ we call it a pneumatic impact driver or "rattle gun" and with one of those driving the socket head screw at the bottom end of the slider and with the fork leg assembled, the screw should loosen easily. If you need more force on the damper rod to hold it still, assemble the forks and wheel into the bike and compress the forks. A bike trailer and tie downs works well for this. Agree with you guys, an Air Impact driver / Gun is the only way to go on this, same goes for loosening off Fly wheel nuts (or doing them up) these little tools save loads of time and grief Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted July 7, 2004 Report Share Posted July 7, 2004 Yup...Impact gun is a great tool, but I always assume that hardly anybody has one, so I try to tell folks how to do it the...uh...old fashioned way. Also...even with an impact, the innards of a fork can spin and you still need to stop them. For those not interested in owning a compressor, there are electric impact guns. Plug it in and go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subira Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Are the TY 350 forks the same as the 250 mono ? If so what's the recommended oil level/quantity..and what weight oil works best. The air wrench worked in my case, although I'm sure I'll need the broom stick when I put them back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted July 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2004 Followup on all these good tips: Last week without tool, I just put it back together and rode it. I got to it this weekend, stripped the forks, only to find the replacement seals were 1 mm too small OD. Cleaned it all up and reassembled, awaiting new seals. 1. Air impact tool = Duh, took the CP out of the bottom drawer and it came right out. Inner rod did turn a bit though. I use the impact gun for flywheel and crankshaft gear nuts, but never crossed my mind. 2. On the second tube, I tried Charlies broom tip just to see. Tried with tapered end, straight end, and with some wadded up duct tape. Didn't work, but after I took the damper out (with air impact) I could see the hex part was very shallow. Had I done a very short steep taper it might have worked fine. 3. Once apart, the proper tool is obvious. As suggested, the hex nut is the ticket. 22 mm is correct, .866 inches across flats. In US, a 9/16 nut is odd, but available, and is .875 across flats. I welded it to about 18 inches of 1/2 inch OD stainless hydraulic tubing, and welded a cheap 3/8 drive socket to the other end. This works great for the final, proper tool to reassemble and tighten. (And I will get to use it all again when I get the proper seals.) I will attch picture below. 4. Also shown is a tool for the TY175 dampers. These have an oval cast end 5/16 across flats, but longer in the other direction, so a socket won't fit. I took a 5/16 8 point socket (for square head set screws), and ground out the sides as shown. Use a 12 inch extension and it works great. 5. The outside hex on a 13/16 spark plug socket is almost 22 mm, but appeared to be a tight fit into the damper rod. I could envision getting it stuck in the rod and pulling off the socket extension. Then there would be parts down hole blocking getting the proper tool onto it, so I would not go that route. However, sticking a 22 mm nut halfway into a stadnard 22 mm socket (with tape or somthing behind and around it) would I think work for those without a welder. Or put a couple nuts jammed onto a bolt with the proper head size, and put a socket on the double nuts. Response to others Q's: 300 cc each, 10w from the manual, although I have been using 7.5 in the stock forks. (Jon Stoodleys recommendations involves closing off some holes. I have not tried, but have heard good things. I don't know how that affects oil.) Use the baby bottle as measuring and fills easy with the clipped off nipple end. I also changed the bottom stripped out philips drain screws to 4 mm stainless socket head screws. I used to have an electric impact gun. Worked OK for light loads but not for serious heavy stuff. Would be great on a mc project. Too much power can make mistakes expensive there. Another must have tool is the hand impact tool: turn it, hit the end with hammer to drive the bit inward and turn the philips screws. I have ground the back sides of philips tips to bite into the screws better and only use that tip for removing old chewed up screws. tks to all kcj sorry, pic is 370k, I will have to have my son change format some how. and add later. kcj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 Pics of the damper tools. I hope. kcj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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