5points Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Hi i am new to the forum, slightly new to trials. I have an 05 rev3 which has a clutch fault, being that the clutch is either on or off, it is not possible to ride the clutch as one would desire, especially in sections! I read somewhere that i should use a fine file and get the edges of the fingers as smooth as possible, will this fix it do you think? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betapete Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 was it always like this from when you bought it? have you had the clutch or clutch slave cylinder out at any time?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sectionone Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 I would check the adjuster screws at the lever first. I once rented a bike that was set up like that which I think was done on purpose for beginner mode. The throttle cable tension at the carb was adjusted way out which would normally cause high revs but the clutch was adjusted so it was always slipping which kept the revs down. A throttle blip wouldn't bring the front end up or cause rear wheel spin because of the slipping. The clutch was like an on off switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5points Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 It was like it when i got it, so i had the clutch out and cleaned it up, all gunk ect between the plates, this made it a little better but not much. It had been stood for a year when i got it. Its not slipping. So i think i will take the plates out and have a look at the edges of the tabs, also read when rebuilding to leave two bolts / springs out so there is less presure on the plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob214 Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 before grinding on clutch basket try different oil weights, atf is faster and a heavy gear oil is slower more progressive. oil is cheaper than replacing a basket or clutch plates. if the bike has sat up for a long time try bleeding out all the old fluid in the lines rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betapete Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 tell me that the ball bearing is there on the push shaft,,,,, please tell me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 Yeah filing the tabs was me. It worked like a charm. It's the first thing I'll check when the '08 comes in. The idea is to make the edges of the tabs even and smooth. Remember they are bearing surfaces that have to slide while under side loads. A rough edge makes it difficult for the clutch to engage and disengage. You may also want to have a good look at your oil. I use Specto Golden Gear but have used Mobil1 motor oil with good results. I tried the ATF fluid before but it made the clutch way too grabby like an on/off switch. And it took several oil changes to get the ATF completely out of the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5points Posted January 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 Well I am practicing this weekend so will first change the oil, I have been using PJ1 75w gear oil, so what does anyone recommend? Then next week if its still doing it, I will have a look, see if the ball is there (!) and maybe to some cleaning and fettling with my dentists file! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 I always used the Elf htx 740 in my Beta's for just that reason. Expensive but well worth it. It works great on more than just 4rt's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.