Ty80 Clutch Adjustment

[moment88]

I just installed a new, nylon-lined Venhill clutch cable on my son's 74 TY80. I want to make sure the clutch mechanism itself is properly adjusted before adjusting the cable. There is a small phillips adjuster screw with a locknut under the cap on the left side engine cover. It appears to be for adjusting the clutch push rod/mechanism clearance. Does anyone know the proper "setting" and procedure for this adjustment?

Thanks, Matthew

[max1956bikes]

slacken of cable.undo locknut unsrew philips untill it stops screw back in half a turn.now adjust cable.good idea while left hand cover is of to lubricate worm drive i use chain lube and work it in.

[moment88]

slacken of cable.undo locknut unsrew philips untill it stops screw back in half a turn.now adjust cable.good idea while left hand cover is of to lubricate worm drive i use chain lube and work it in.

Just to clarify, am I screwing the adjuster against the clutch push rod and then backing it off or, am I screwing it away from the rod fully then turning it back toward the rod a half a turn? The worm gear has already been cleaned and well lubricated. Thanks for the info.

Matthew

Edited February 8, 2008 by Moment88

[bigwig]

I'm afraid Max's answer is not correct. First completely slacken both in line and lever cable adjustments, Then slacken locknut and turn philips screw in or out until internal lever is in line with the axle line of the bike. then tighten locknut and adjust the cable. This then makes the arm work through the 90 degees to the cable getting the lightest possible clutch from the standard set up .Personally I also lenghthen the clutch arm by about half an inch and weld on another cable stop hole boss about half an inch towards the rear of the case. But always set clutch arm as previously stated, Good idea to use a freedom type cable lubricator as well. This makes it much better for those little hands.The reason the standard cable has two adjustment facilities is to be to always get the arm working at the right angle to the cable. Hard to explain but hope you understand.

[moment88]

Thank you very much for the clarification/correction. I'm glad you chimed in as the procedure Max described was not sounding clear to me. I do understand what you are saying and it does makes sense. So really, the screw doesn't have so much to do with adjusting the clearance between the arm and the rod but more for the positioning of the arm itself? One question I did have though is what exactly is a "freedom type cable lubricator" that I'm not familiar with. I have a device that clamps to my cables which allows me to "inject" aerosol cable lube into the sheath of my cables, is this the type of device you are referring to?

Thanks again, Matthew

[bigwig]

moment88, Yes youve got the gist of the ty80 design exactly. As for the "freedom " lubricator, they wre first made under that name in the USA and what are around now are Chinese copies of the American design. That is what I think you have. I first bought one in1972 whilst on a racing tour in Australia and without one would feel lost. There is a more refined design that I've seeh in the last few months that fits two cable outer sizes. See Yah Bigwig

[moment88]

At the risk of being accused of overthinking this situation, I have to say that upon reflection, I am still not completely satisfied with the proper clutch adjustment procedures recommended thus far. The clutch adjustment screw is in direct contact with the clutch push rod. Therefore, is it not true that if the adjustment screw were to be turned in too much or too little, that the separation of the clutch plates would be directly effected? In other words, if the adjustment screw was turned in too far, wouldn't that allow the clutch plates to slip? Or conversely, wouldn't not enough clearance cause difficult shifting? If true, this would negate the idea that the sole purpose of the adjustment screw was for the alignment of the clutch arm (forgive me Bigwig, correct me if I'm wrong).

Thoughts and opinions welcomed.

Matthew

Edited February 9, 2008 by Moment88

[kevin j]

The adjusting screw would only affect the plates if the lever couldn't move. In stead of pushin g on the plates, it justmoves the lever back in the spiral plastic gear in the opposite direction. The lever moves back and forth in the spiral, so you want it centered about the arc it will make when operating, as the prior post described.

The spiral gear and lever are NLA from Yamaha and a weak point, so treat them carefully. Keep cleaned and lubed and a good chain tensioner on the bike. The chain throws sand and crap right up into that area, so it gets sticky and wears. Also, if a chain comes off it often bends the push rod (which is easy to get) and damages the actuator (which is NLA and thus already gone from most boneyard carcasses).

Bob Ginder at B7J also has an adjustable pivot point lever to get softer pull for little hands.

is the freedom lube tool the same as the yamaluber? I have several, they work great. I did learn not to gently squirt the lube in the top, as it tends to just come back out around any leaks. Give it full blast, as much and fast as possible, and let it leak out around the top if it happenss. But that builds enough pressure to push the lube down, and pushes dirt out the bottom. Never lube from bottom up. Great tools.

Thankfully, hydraulic brake and clutches reduce need for this maintenance, but throttles are still cables.....

k