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Wheel Bearings


bradgg125
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Get an old flat headed screwdriver in from the other side of the wheel. Push the spacer to one side and you should be able to get the screwdriver on the inner side of the bearing. Bit of a bang with a mallet and move it round the bearing and it should come out nicely. The spacer is just a hollow tube, you'll have a job to hit anything except the bearing (which you're going to throw away) so no harm done (except possibly to the screwdriver).

I normally use a bit of wood to tap them back in, just make sure you get them straight and tap the wood with a mallet.

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Hi Brad, i had to use a length of solid bar instead of a screwdriver and a two pound lump hammer,as mine were stuck fast. In the end the steel casing of the bearing shattered. just go for it, as said the only thing you can damage is probably your hand when you crack it with the hammer.

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Use the outer race from the old bearing to tap the new bearing in - it's always the right diameter.

Never tap the new bearing in using the inner race.

If things are tight, a kettle full of boiling water over the alloy housing helps warm your toes up.

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After a good soak of WD40 or some gentle heat (alloy v steel - one is bound to expand more than the other) Brute force evenly applied to the outer ring with a steel drift and lump hammer attacked from the opposite side (as per bikespace advice) should do the trick. Make sure the wheel is chocked off the ground with wood whislt performing this 'delicate' act. Once bearing from one side is out, the other side is a piece of cake. Failing which take to a dealer to avoid heartache. When fitting the new bearings, apply grease to the outer race which seats in the hub and tap in with the socket of same diameter as the outer race with the face of the socket against the bearing. Good luck

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Get an old flat headed screwdriver in from the other side of the wheel. Push the spacer to one side and you should be able to get the screwdriver on the inner side of the bearing. Bit of a bang with a mallet and move it round the bearing and it should come out nicely. The spacer is just a hollow tube, you'll have a job to hit anything except the bearing (which you're going to throw away) so no harm done (except possibly to the screwdriver).[/color]I normally use a bit of wood to tap them back in, just make sure you get them straight and tap the wood with a mallet.

On some bikes this isn't possible as the centre sleeve can't move to one side to allow a punch any access. On this type I use a socket that fits tightly inside the bearing. Tap on the end of the socket which then uses the spacer to push the opposing bearing out.

Edited by Timp
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Timp is correct there is an increasing number of bikes (Scorpa, Sherco etc) that use the AJP hub set up with a spacer that fits inside the inner race in fact overlapping both bearing inner races.

I have discovered that RYP in the States do a special tool and I am currently awaiting full details of this item to come from Ryan Young.

Anyone obtained and used the "Splatter Tool kit" yet?

Big John

Edited by Big John
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Timp is correct there is an increasing number of bikes (Scorpa, Sherco etc) that use the AJP hub set up with a spacer that fits inside the inner race in fact overlapping both bearing inner races.

I have discovered that RYP in the States do a special tool and I am currently awaiting full details of this item to come from Ryan Young.

Anyone obtained and used the "Splatter Tool kit" yet?

Big John

John, seems I recall Stoodly(JSE) had something he made that was quite effective, cannot recall the specifics but might be worth a PM to him! :rolleyes: He does things like that!

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