redbaron Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 .... I should have taken out the bolts and replaced them with zip ties, but I didn't, and I flipped it, and my rear fender snapped into three pieces. New rear fender for a 2002 Lampkin rep 315r, that'll be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyl Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 I have bought unstickered 1998 red mudguards in the past a lot cheaper than that. All stickers come seperate with their own part no. The pre 2000 mudguards without the red paint on top are a lot more forgiving than the later versions. Try a humberside dealer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastducs Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I'm relatively new to trials, so can you explain the zip-tie trick please? Are you saying to replace the 2 side bolts which attach the mudguard to the airbox? Are zip-ties really that much more forgiving than bolts? Or do you have to leave the zip-ties loose? And what about the center bolt which attaches mudguard to the fuel tank and frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 (edited) I'm relatively new to trials, so can you explain the zip-tie trick please? Are you saying to replace the 2 side bolts which attach the mudguard to the airbox? Are zip-ties really that much more forgiving than bolts? Or do you have to leave the zip-ties loose? And what about the center bolt which attaches mudguard to the fuel tank and frame? Zip-ties have saved me buying many a rear mud-guard on the different bikes I've had in the past. Leave the front (vertical) bolt in place and remove the rear (horizontal) 2 bolts. Remove the captive-nuts from the back of the airbox. Thread one cable tie(english version) through the guard and airbox hole and tighten..repeat for the other side. Check that the mud-guard still keeps the crap out of the airbox and.. voila.........The idea is that the ties snap in an emergency and not the plastic mud-guard (hopefully the guard just lifts a little and pivots on the front bolt). I keep a selection of spare cable ties slotted into my bar-pad cover. This procedure is not a guarantee of any sort, but like I say, I use it and it's worked for me. It works for daft little flips but it can't help with the high speed ,cartwheel, get-offs that the experts have. P.S> I remember that the unpainted 97black/98 red rear mud-guards were the cheapest. Wayne Edited March 5, 2008 by HAM2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwilson Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I use three nylon screws on my Scorpa SY-250. I carry some extras in my Camelbak. These work great as the threads on the nylon screws either pull out or shear off. Takes just a minute to replace them. I haven't looked at a 315R or a 4RT in a while so I am not sure they will work but it might be worth a try. I buy the screws at the hardware store they are stocked in the assorted bits and pieces bins. Ciao DFW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter9000uk Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 I used to use plastic car trim fixing thingys. get a size that will push nice and tight into the existing thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgshannon Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 car trim fixing thingys Is that a technical term? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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