alfow1 Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Possibly getting to the bottom of this now? I took the sump guard off earlier to replace some of the mounting bolts and noticed the end of a nipple showing on the underside, kicked the bike over a few times to start and a good bit of fuel jetted out of it. I'm assuming this nipple is part of an overflow to stop the crankcase flooding? With the nipple being blocked, the crank case couldn't drain itself, leading to the plug being flooded what seemed like a bit too easily. Any thoughts on this? Got her running quite nicley now, although when warm she does take a while to return to idle and sometimes carry's on ticking over quite quickly. Fine when cold and the tickover is not only slower but is smoother too. Any thoughts please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Ok, this is the ADV crankcase scavenge valve, basically a one way drain valve for the crankcase, doesn't actually do much, as your crankcase shouldn't need draining if the carb is set up properly and you are using the correct oil & ratio. You need to find out why the case is flooding in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfow1 Posted March 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Update: So i've had to get rid of the airbox altogether as the rubber hose was knackered beyond repair and getting a replacement seems as likely as winning the lottery. I have replaced it with a K&N type cone filter tucked up under the seat. Been back to her a few times now and started with relative ease, after speaking to Peter Knight he reccomended running on 50:1 so changed that. No longer lets fuel out of the crankcase scavenge valve so that's got to be good. Can anyone advise on how many turns out the airscrew on the carb should be? I've been told 1 1/4 but this seems a bit rich, don't want to seize her either! Any advice please?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted March 30, 2008 Report Share Posted March 30, 2008 Impossible to advise on airscrew, especially on an older bike which may have several worn components (and now no airbox), every bike was different even when new. You just have to gradually home in on the settings until the bike is running sweet, and you can't seize it by having the wrong airscrew setting as this has little effect on the running of the engine once its revving a bit. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfow1 Posted March 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 Ok thanks tshock 250 that makes perfect sense, getting confused with a four stroke.... Which plug are people using in their TXR's please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted March 31, 2008 Report Share Posted March 31, 2008 I love the NGK site for finding the the right sparkplug. Aprilla Spark Plugs And get the exact part, not "something close" as one little letter can make a world of difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve666 Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 (edited) Hi this is my first post ,i have just had the same problem with the climber stalling and not starting halfway round a muddy section, I could get the bike going again with a new plug or 20 mins of kicking over ( nearly broke my leg doing this after missing the kick start in temper and pile driving my leg striaght down into tarmac! ) this happen a couple of times and i thought i had bought a dud bike ,until some bright spake told me to send the stator to be checked ,low and behold it needed a re wind , job sorted kicks over 2nd time all the time now. Edited June 12, 2008 by steve666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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