windlestone Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Hi Ian The pros have fingers on the clutch very similar to a car clutch and they work as the springs. I've not heard of any of my mates modifying springs in their older models sounds like a good fix tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianj Posted August 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Hi IanThe pros have fingers on the clutch very similar to a car clutch and they work as the springs. I've not heard of any of my mates modifying springs in their older models sounds like a good fix tho Ahhhh, so the bendit-&-bodgit answer is to cut a couple of opposing fingers off then......... Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtt Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 (edited) Hutch, the hydraulics can be left fully in tact while removing/working on clutch. You can even do it without draining the oil, if in a hurry. Just lay the bike on the left side, remove kickstarter and clutch cover bolts. Lift the cover and you'll see the clutch and the tiny allen head bolts that hold the plates in place. Carefully remove them and lift the plates out. It's really that simple. The Pro's racing heritage shows clearly when working on the motor, as it is very easy and fast to get at things internal. Cutting the fingers wouldn't help Ian, it's down to the clutch pack total thickness that determines the leverage the fingers gets on the pressure plate clutch setup. Basically there is a cupped spring steel clutch plate that replaces all the coil springs from the older style clutch. The height of the fingers determine the leverage on this and can be modified with thicker or thinner steel clutch plates. A brilliantly simple design. Edited August 5, 2004 by JTT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianj Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Hutch, the hydraulics can be left fully in tact while removing/working on clutch. You can even do it without draining the oil, if in a hurry. Just lay the bike on the left side, remove kickstarter and clutch cover bolts. Lift the cover and you'll see the clutch and the tiny allen head bolts that hold the plates in place. Carefully remove them and lift the plates out. It's really that simple.The Pro's racing heritage shows clearly when working on the motor, as it is very easy and fast to get at things internal. Cutting the fingers wouldn't help Ian, it's down to the clutch pack total thickness that determines the leverage the fingers gets on the pressure plate clutch setup. Basically there is a cupped spring steel clutch plate that replaces all the coil springs from the older style clutch. The height of the fingers determine the leverage on this and can be modified with thicker or thinner steel clutch plates. A brilliantly simple design. Hi, Ok, so let me get this straight, are you saying it is possible to make the clutch lighter through two methods, 1. A cupped plated of different sprung strength. 2. Replace the flat steel plates with different thickness to change the overall witdth of the 'pack'. I assume a thinner pack is lighter clutch? I was wondering, is the clutch on the smaller engine's Pro's lighter, and which method have they used to make it lighter? Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Ian I've riden a few pro's now including my own 300 and have found the clutches to be little butter as someone else said. I'm not sure where this story about he clutch being heavy came from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianj Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 IanI've riden a few pro's now including my own 300 and have found the clutches to be little butter as someone else said. I'm not sure where this story about he clutch being heavy came from. Hi, It came from me!.......I just tried the clutch at Addingham and thought it felt heavy. I like a real light clucth you see. Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtt Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Ok, so let me get this straight, are you saying it is possible to make the clutch lighter through two methods,1. A cupped plated of different sprung strength. 2. Replace the flat steel plates with different thickness to change the overall witdth of the 'pack'. I assume a thinner pack is lighter clutch? I was wondering, is the clutch on the smaller engine's Pro's lighter, and which method have they used to make it lighter? Ian. Sorry Ian, it's difficult to describe.... 1. no, the cupped plate is not interchangable and is the same on all Pro models. 2. As you may be able to see with the diagram R2 posted, the thickness of the total pack effects the height of the fingers (the 17 + or - number) By using the thinner plates, you are increasing that 17mm number and also effectively increasing the leverage on these fingers slightly. It also effect the clutch action in how abrupt it is and also the point of engagement at the lever. The clutch slave cylinder presses on the centre of these fingers and they lever the clutch open to disengage it. I hope that's a little clearer? If you could hold it in your hand it would be obvious right away, just difficult to explain in words. All the Pro models, 125 - 300 use the same clutch as far as I know, so the action should be identical through the range. It must have been a setup problem with the one you felt, as mine, and all the ones I had and have ridden, all had very light clutches...easily as light as the Montesa or Sherco. Of course R2s suggestion of the training exercises might work too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutchph998 Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Some great responses from everyone,kinda like demystifing the stuff the works or guys in the know use.Shows really these relatively cheap hi tech gadgets we ride can be worked by mere mortals with a bit of knowledge shareing,particularly in this age of warranties with workshops and manufacturers telling us "you don't wanna do that" scare tactics.Surprising the confidence it gives knowing the bike you fettled your self and understanding how all those components work together gives you when you've finished the the trial unless you have your own personal "Kev" of course,then you can just get on with just being shagged out. Still like to know the life expectancy of the Pro clutch with regular rideing,does it let you know,is there a recommended life span? H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtt Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 hutch, it will depend greatly from rider to rider. My '02 is still going on it's original clutch, far as I know. That is with 3 yrs of intermediate level riders. Pros probably use them up at a much higher rate, like everything else. No real recommended life span, totally dependant on rider, conditions and fluids used (and how often changed). I suspect with good maintenance and no major abuse, a clutch would easy be good for 4 years or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutchph998 Posted August 7, 2004 Report Share Posted August 7, 2004 JTT thanks for the tips I change the oil frequently so can carry on one finger danceing with peace of mind. H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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