aye sparticus Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 Had my first trial on Sunday,also had an off on the first section with the effect of bending my clutch lever into an attractive U shape, anyway managed to straighten it out ....a bit and carry on, done the first lap then coming back to the start .... no clutch it wouldn't engage with the hilarious effect of me starting it in neutral then putting it into gear as it shot off with me holding on ... Oh how i laughed ... err not quite anyways i believe i need to bleed the clutch there was some fluid leaking round the lever i do have the replacement seal kit which i had bought the other week ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylael Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 Carefully replace the rubber seal and o ring or whatever is in the master cul. Be sure to back off the adjuster screw enough to allow small clearance between the pusher and the piston. Obtain a small siringe from whatever source. Install a small hose from the brake fluid filled siringe, open the bleeder screw and push the fluid from the bottom uo until there are no more bubbles in master cyl. resevoir. Once you pump up the lever a few dozen times, adjust the lever positioning screw to suit. Note the lever must have clearance at rest to function hydraulically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris morris Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 do you mean this rubber cover that they wont sell on its own. 70p Mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aye sparticus Posted April 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 do you mean this rubber cover that they wont sell on its own. 70p Mate Thats the one phoned them but it doesnt come on its own it's "part of the seal kit" even though its on the website on its own ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 25, 2008 Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 Carefully replace the rubber seal and o ring or whatever is in the master cul. Be sure to back off the adjuster screw enough to allow small clearance between the pusher and the piston. Obtain a small siringe from whatever source. Install a small hose from the brake fluid filled siringe, open the bleeder screw and push the fluid from the bottom uo until there are no more bubbles in master cyl. resevoir. Once you pump up the lever a few dozen times, adjust the lever positioning screw to suit. Note the lever must have clearance at rest to function hydraulically. Try to choose a circlip plier with a long, slim point as the "pudgy" types have a hard time reaching in to get at the circlip and use tips that are as thick as you can that fit the circlip holes. The circlip is small and it takes a fair amount of pressure to compress it and little thin tangs will often pop off it easily (and keep your fingers covering the area, those circlips launch themselves a long ways when the pop off the tangs). Make sure you have the top off the reservoir and expect the fluid to spout up so a rag placed over the top might help unless you like stains on the ceiling. After bleeding the system, turn the bars to the right so the reservoir is the highest point in the system and carefully pull in the lever and release it a few times (cap off, and the initial part of the pull should be slow till the piston goes past the bleed hole so fluid won't spew up). This way you can work out the very small bubbles left over and they will eventually disappear from the fluid coming back up from the bleed hole inside the reservoir. Your M/C cap should be green in color, so don't forget that the system takes a special mineral oil for clutches, and NOT the type you get in drug stores. Black reservoir caps indicate the system takes DOT-3/4/5.1 fluid. If you're taking the M/C apart to rebuild it anyway, you might want to convert the system to DOT-5 (Silicone) which will give a smoother pull but it entails flushing the whole system by taking the servo cylinder apart as Silicone and other fluids do not mix. I wish we could get just the boot for the M/C. When that splits or is broken, the piston seal is the next to go as grit gets in the piston bore quite easily. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylael Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 (edited) What happens when you use the type of mineral oil from the drug store, not that i've already done that or anything... Edited April 26, 2008 by JayLael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 What happens when you use the type of mineral oil from the drug store, not that i've already done that or anything... It will work, but the viscosity is too heavy and will cause the clutch lever to feel "slow" or sluggish. The clutch mineral oil, like Magura Blood/Royal Blood, has a much lighter viscosity. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postmanpat Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 Hi,you can get syringes cheep enough from your local vets-60ml dose ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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