taylo63 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Hi All Looking for a bit of advise here please. I have found a welder willing to weld the fuel tank part of my rev 3. ( for those of you worried about he safety aspect, apparently he will purge the tank with argon). Would you recommend that any or all of the electrics are disconnected prior to the welding to avoid electrical damage ?. I did speak to Lampkins ( he knows someone with a similar problem that regularly welds his frame ) and he says it is not necessary, providing any exposed components are physically protected.. What do you think ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razor Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 i would remove them.................. for the sake of 15 min job. better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motofire Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 i would remove them.................. for the sake of 15 min job. better safe than sorry Me too...though I would not weld a gas tank either. Argon or CO2 will not fully inert a tank. If the guy will weld it for you thats fine...just stay away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwilson Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Me too...though I would not weld a gas tank either. Argon or CO2 will not fully inert a tank. If the guy will weld it for you thats fine...just stay away. When I was a kid I saw what happened when a steel gas tank was welded after it sat open outside for 5 years and was then filled with dry ice to purge it. Aluminum is more pourus than steel. Take motofire's advice and stay away. Oh by the way it blew the guy (who worked for my dad) through a wooden garage door. His welding goggles cut deep groves around his eyes. The blast severely burned his face and arms above his gloves. He spent two weeks in hospital while they scrubbed the scabs off of his face to prevent scars from forming. He was a tough Texas but he said he would have preferred not to have had to go though the procedure. As for the ignitions module I would disconnect it as the high frequency used to start a spark when TIG welding can damage electronics. Cheers Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Oh flipp'n 'eck talk about dramatic. You can easily weld it. Vee grove out the crack to prep (this helps to get better weld penetration and you need to remove the surface anodizing!), Wash it out with good dose of Acetone a couple of times, Put an air line in it to blow it out for 15 minutes, 95% fill with water and plug the holes, Tip the frame to so the air bubble is at the top then weld up on the bubble, Use high tensile filler wire, Preheat the weld area a lot, The welder needs to be a very high end unit with ramp control down (most important) to stop a finishing pin hole, Oh and if you hadn't already guessed it.... you'll need to completely disassemble the whole bike (1-2hrs work) it so your friendly welder has an easy job to do on a very difficult thing. Check for remaining leaks BEFORE you reassemble it. Ralphy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Thanks for your replies...Trouble is you have scared me half to death !!!. Ok ..so if welding is not something that is recommended does anyone know of an alternative way to stop the leak. I have tried various liquid metals but they only last for half a Trial and then it starts leaking again. By the way the leak is coming from the weld next to the filler cap. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksv Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 would a cracked frame not come under waranty anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amiller Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Where is the crack? How did it crack? Never seen a cracked Beta frame. I have actually had to replace one but that bike experienced major trama. It bent but didnt crack. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I have already spoken to Lampkins about it but he was'nt interested.....I don't know how crack manifested itself. It was'nt leaking when I brought it and I have never subjected the bike to the extreme abuse that you might think it has had. Personaly I think it is a weld fault, which for a 2006 bike is P*** poor !! KSV I think I have little hope of getting a new frame under warranty I don't think Beta UK do warranties !!! Oh well it looks like I will either have to live with it or find a welder that is willing to risk blowing himself up !! This will be my first and last Beta ..What with leaking carb probs, corroding water pumps and a cracked frame does,nt really feel me with confidence.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsrfun Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 (edited) A method I have successfully used to weld alloy tanks is, empty the tank remove the fuel tap put a hose from a vehicle exhaust into the tank (can be either a petrol or diesel engine) leave the vehicle engine running for 10-15 mins longer if you think it needs it the tank will get warm tank ok to weld on a Beta assuming that area to be welded is on the top by or around the filler neck disconnect the coil wires, remove the carb from the bike, remove tap and continue as above, have it Tig welded by someone who is used to/good at alloy welding sounds like you have a frame with poor welding in a small area. Beta bikes are normally superb good luck with the repair & happy riding Edited June 23, 2008 by TrialsRfun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpa3 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 Oh flipp'n 'eck talk about dramatic. You can easily weld it. Vee grove out the crack to prep (this helps to get better weld penetration and you need to remove the surface anodizing!), Wash it out with good dose of Acetone a couple of times, Put an air line in it to blow it out for 15 minutes, 95% fill with water and plug the holes, Tip the frame to so the air bubble is at the top then weld up on the bubble, Use high tensile filler wire, Preheat the weld area a lot, The welder needs to be a very high end unit with ramp control down (most important) to stop a finishing pin hole, Oh and if you hadn't already guessed it.... you'll need to completely disassemble the whole bike (1-2hrs work) it so your friendly welder has an easy job to do on a very difficult thing. Check for remaining leaks BEFORE you reassemble it. Ralphy Not wishing to spread doom and gloom but Ralphy is right. Do it like he says, I can assure you, welding a fuel tank without carrying out the above process is extremely dangerous. People do weld tanks by just washing out or filling with exhaust gas etc etc. But remember, they are lucky, are you? Do the job right, do it once and for all, and most importantly do it safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted June 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 (edited) Trialsrfun Thanks for the advice and I shall leave te welding to a professional that knows what he is doing. Could you confirm how/where the coil/coils wires are located and if they are easy to access .. Thanks Edited June 23, 2008 by taylo63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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