copemech Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Although relatively close by, I am not quite sure who Plunker1 is, probably Rob T. And if the bike I am thinking about, it can leave you hanging at the wrong time! All said, yes a good point is made about the possibility of the electrics causing such grief! There have been a number of wierd reports over the years of strange happenings that I cannot totally explain or neccessarily develop a pattern. This makes things even more difficult to diagnose. Poor grounding(earthing) of anything from the motor itself and stator plate, to ignition box, to plugs, cap and wireing have caused misery! The components in the stator(and trigger)coils tend to be more likely to just fail, hot it seems. While the advance box/coil could get erratic! As none here have a test stand to run this stuff off the bike, many times component replacement has been the last resort, although it may be possible to "catch things in the act" if you had a strobe setup handy while it was happening. Low or no output, erratic advance or scattered timing may be clues. The resultant overheating of the exhaust due to much unburned fuel downstream and not neccessarily the overheating of the cylender, yet results in poor running, basically poor combustion process! Pinging and preignition may come into play as well. You see, I could be wrong here, as I am not an electrinicstitition, yet logic dictates that the "black box" that controls the advance curve if the ignition is nothing but a "delay"box in the first place. As timing by trigger point can never come before the actual trigger anyway, so thusly, the advance curve is simply slowed at lower rpm. Possibly too much if things are not right, follow? Possibly not enough as well. Friggin chips! How far can these things go off, not sure, but if anything like some of the other electronics I deal with, well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Feedback time... ...Looks like the rad leak is the main reason for the overheating 'cos I've just had 20 mins on't drive with the bike running perfect ..but (isn't there always with me) after 21 mins the new sealant gave out in one very small area (accompanied by a high pitched squeal to make it easy to spot ). Some progress I suppose, now I have to think about my next step ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Feedback time......Looks like the rad leak is the main reason for the overheating 'cos I've just had 20 mins on't drive with the bike running perfect ..but (isn't there always with me) after 21 mins the new sealant gave out in one very small area (accompanied by a high pitched squeal to make it easy to spot ). Some progress I suppose, now I have to think about my next step ? Oh crap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 This almost makes me wonder if there is not some excessive build of pressure here for some reason, like leaky head o-ring or something. Have you tried running it up to normal temps and topping off the rad just to see if there are any abnormal bubbles that just keep coming out without capping it?? I realize these things should be able to build and hold some pressure under stress, but as long as that fan is still cycling out there really should not be any as the temp are low enough to prevent it. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 I hear what you're saying Mark. I will try that ,you know what a bugger it is to see into the rad neck with the tank off and to keep the bike running. The rad cap on my bike states ''+1 Bar'' which is only 15 PSI above atmospheric. The rad cap has never vented or overflowed as I imagine it would do so first, if I had an excess pressure build up? I don't know that much ,I just have a theory(un-proven) for everything If you recall I have a real voodoo hex about cylinder head seals/gaskets..so I don't want to pull it unless I really,really have to It's just as well that I have no immediate rush to sort the problem as it would have done my head in if I was in dire need of some peg-time, you wouldn't believe how small a bead of coolant is produced by this leak, no wonder I couldn't detect a drop in the coolant level ! More theory time, and you could be just the guy to confirm it or shoot it down in flames ( as I know you have aviation/aloominumb experience). Feel free to take the peepee outa my logic process here: Next step.. ..To make a more secure repair I need to know how/why was this aluminheehum rad fabricated in the first place?i.e why did the manufacturer bond/seal the head tank to the matrix ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 UUUMMM buy new radiator. I know more expensive but in the long run your brain will thank you for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 UUUMMM buy new radiator.I know more expensive but in the long run your brain will thank you for it. But I've already spent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 But I've already spent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plunker1 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Hello again, Again I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Hey Rob, An infra-red temp hand guage sounds like a mighty useful piece of kit (especially at the moment). Can I ask how you did a crank pressure test ?..just for future reference. Currently I'm patiently scraping away the resin seal and epoxy at the rim of my rad in preparation for some spanner time this weekend. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Robs findings may well be the key, yet I am not sure of his exact process in doing the pressure test, he has the right idea! I do not know if his has ever been overhauled, maybe not! And it does get ridden, it seems he can ride experts on it! Although i do seem to recall at least one bad incedent when this thing cut out on him about halfway up a near verticle 8-10 ft uphill! I would be interisted to know just how much the flywheel moves up and down on that one? Put a dial indicator on it! May surprise you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Sit' rep'.. Bottled it... It was proving very difficult to hold the rad safely and securely enough to work on it, I'd gone as far as I could go without risking damage. So it was time to use a bit more brain than braun and one internet search later; I found a radiator specialist not even 2 miles from my front door . It's in their hands now, when I get it back,if they do a good job , I'll let you know more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Sorry ,only half a post..this is what I've got back but I don't have time to fit it today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 looking snazzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bark Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Enjoyable post fellows, troubleshooting can be such a pain. These forums are uber for learning about all sorts of stuff. Dumb question... Can I confirm that 'pinking' means 'pinging', where both are referring to detonation? Thanks, Bark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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