Gear Oil Leak!

[edgas250]

My 280 pro has just started leaking gearoil,

When the bike is running its seaping through the bolts which hold the clutch cover on? think there is a gasket behind that? ive checked the gasket and its fine, what would have caused this? are there any seals i should replace?

thanks

[jse]

My 280 pro has just started leaking gearoil,

When the bike is running its seaping through the bolts which hold the clutch cover on? think there is a gasket behind that? ive checked the gasket and its fine, what would have caused this? are there any seals i should replace?

thanks

From what you describe, the seeping is a result of a malfunctioning clutch cover gasket and replacing it will solve the problem.

Jon

[edgas250]

ok thanks, would that all i would need to replace? no other seals or nothing?

[edgas250]

ok ive just nackered the job up! i was taking the clutch cover and water pump off, and thinking that the brass star bolt on front of the pump was one of the bolts holding the pump on i noticed the head was rounded off, so ive drilled it out now leaking anti freeze, after looking on gg museum i see its a pump bushing? does this screw out or will ineed to buy a whole new casing?

[jandyb]

Youre screwed :-)

If You didn`t damage the threads it will come out OK I guess. Just buy a new one.

If You did damage the threads You have a problem. It maybe solves with Helicoil or similar but I doubt it

-Jan

[edgas250]

i thought as much

ive ordered a new one anyway, i havnt touched the thread, but im just wondering how im going to get the old one out

[jse]

i thought as much

ive ordered a new one anyway, i havnt touched the thread, but im just wondering how im going to get the old one out

It's a standard right-hand thread with a plastic washer. You can use a sharp centerpunch towards the outside part of the bushing and coax it out. Be aware that there is a thin washer on the shaft you don't want to lose in the turbine blades. Keep exact track of the capscrews when taking them out as they are different lengths and go in certain places on the sidecover. Don't just slap it back on but carefully align the pin on the waterpump shaft with the slots on the crank gear.

Check out: http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ before you do any work on the Pro engine, it's a quite different engine than any other and can be easily damaged by a lack of knowledge.

Jon

[edgas250]

right i've put the new gasket on, replaced the brass bolt on the water pump, im now having trouble with the kick start,

with out the casing on the kick returns as it should, ( the spring is pointing at 1 o clock) but when i put the csaing on tighten it all up it wont return!

any ideas ?

thanks

[jse]

right i've put the new gasket on, replaced the brass bolt on the water pump, im now having trouble with the kick start,

with out the casing on the kick returns as it should, ( the spring is pointing at 1 o clock) but when i put the csaing on tighten it all up it wont return!

any ideas ?

thanks

Just a guess, but make sure the loop on the return spring that sticks out is indexed to the proper machined hole in the sidecover. Also, there is a thin machined washer that fits on the kickstart shaft, before attaching the sidecover, and 9 times out of 10, it will stick to the inside of the cover when removing it and then fall off and get lost as it also has a knack to fall off in the area of the ground where it will be the most difficult for it to be found.....

Jon

[edgas250]

rite ive sorted that, put it all back together, put gear oil and coolant in, do i need to bleed the coolant system? as it seems to be getting very hot?

also just so im sure, the bar that is on the inside of the water pump, this will only go in one way wont it? i maen if i havtn lined it up surely it wouldnt sit flush witht he clutch casing?

thanks.

[jse]

rite ive sorted that, put it all back together, put gear oil and coolant in, do i need to bleed the coolant system? as it seems to be getting very hot?

also just so im sure, the bar that is on the inside of the water pump, this will only go in one way wont it? i maen if i havtn lined it up surely it wouldnt sit flush witht he clutch casing?

thanks.

I've not had to bleed the system in the Pro as there don't seem to be any major high spots that would trap a bubble upon refilling. If you fill the coolant up to the top of the filler neck, a little coolant will dribble out the overflow when the fluid normally expands and some riders mistake this is a sign of overheating. I always like to re-check the coolant level after running the engine a short time whenever I start with an empty cooling system (let it cool down and if necessary add coolant just to the bottom of the filler neck).

Due to the two "sets" of slots on the primary crank gear, the waterpump shaft pin can go in two ways. If the pin has not aligned with the gear slots, the cover will not fit flush with the case at the front (if the pump is attached to the sidecover upon re-assembly). If the shaft pin has not gone down into the gear slot, forcing the cover on will most likely cause some damage. I try to never force things when assembling engines as I've found that when parts do not fit together with normal pressure, they are usually trying to tell me something, and ignoring their pleas is usually an expensive process.

To align the pin with the gear slots I like to use the lower waterpump screw holes (the one that takes the slightly longer pump mounting capscrew) as a reference. I align the crank gear slot with the bottom W/P mount hole in the sidecover and then turn the shaft on the pump so the pin aligns with the lower mount hole on the pump body, add a little grease to the thin o-ring and it usually slide in with no problem.

Jon