chewy Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Set float level at 18.5 and uk settings are 33 and 118. Claen through and pay attention to the banjo filter. I wish somebody had told BVM that they fitted a 35 pilot jet ( I understand they leave factory with a 30 and 122 main) and said it was as reccomended by MRS... in the meantime I've been through a lot of trial and error to get back to buyimg a 33 pilot which with Boyensons fitted is the smoothest it has run to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 I wish somebody had told BVM that they fitted a 35 pilot jet ( I understand they leave factory with a 30 and 122 main) and said it was as reccomended by MRS... in the meantime I've been through a lot of trial and error to get back to buyimg a 33 pilot which with Boyensons fitted is the smoothest it has run to date. Mind you a lot has to do with the fuel you are running. The alcohol induced fuels have really changed the playing field it seems. I run the high octane pump gas here with an estimated 10% alcohol content which may vary. So over time, even though I found good running on 33 pilots a few years back with minimal pinging, I could not do it it later years. I think the basic equasion is fairly simple rule at 100% alcohol you gotta double jet size! At 10% alcohol, one would add 5% to jet size so you gotta go upa bit to 35-36 range. There are a lot of variables wit the fuels, the bike and the carb, not to mention different parts of the world, then throw in REEDS! I never really seen much change on the Boyesen reeds that was out of screw adjustment range as compared to stock reeds at the low end. Providing you are in range. All point being, I never got rid some fair pinging off idle at low throttle settings on the '07 at say 1/16 point till I went with the larger 38 pilot to get some juice into the transition circuit between the screw and the needle. At the same time I say this, I think it was my '03 bike that was too lumpy in this range, and had to go back from 35 to 33 to get it to smooth out. Seems the range is fairly narrow here still today, but finding the sweet spot can take some time and fine tuning, which can vary on the day and your settings! I still think finding the correct jet that makes the 1/16 transition work is the key for smoothness between the idle circuit and the needle, and this takes some fine work, yet the idle screw is adjustable, and so is the needle at 1/8 or so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 What you say is right Cope I have to say if you really want a flat motor fit the two stage reeds with the factory reed stops and retard the timing. At least I got to a point between flat and smooth.I am now confident I am within a reasonable range of parameters to adjust it to suit me on our fuel..which to affects things. Put the stator back to where it doesn't sometimes want to fire out of the exhaust when soft kickstarting (if you know what I mean) incidentally I have now heard of 2 new shercos with kickstart problems..fingers crossed and be gentle then! I also tried out a Mk. 3 top yoke on Sunday... lot of work but now have bar mount bolt holes a full 15mm fwd. of std and 10mm up... the bike fits me without having to rotate the bars as this puts strain on my arms... we put a tape measure over 3 different bikes and my Sherco is still the smallest twixt bar ends and back edge of footrests I.m 1.8 m tall (5ft 11") and I would normally want to have c.950mm measured over the outsides ie front of bar end to rear of footrest I.m running with 945 the gasser was 970 and the Beta was 955 ( all subject to various bar rotatation of course). Also took more damping off the back end and wound up the spring preload a bit , After 6 months of basic troubles which shouldn't be; wheel rim carburation and steering I feel at last that the bike and I might be able to get along together. your help and patience made it happen ..thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) Thanks Chewy, I think you gotta stay on top of the rear spring preload for a bit as they settle in. I don't like them settling too much as this really seems to start kicking the front rake out too much, effecting the steering and making them push too much. Seems for heavier riders, spring selection is nil unless one has them made special. The bikes will not hit the locks like the Evo or Scorpa at low speeds, so you gotta learn to lead and lean the bike. As no bike will turn good without leaning, it just takes a bit more, and perfecting this "accentuated" lean angle at times is key. I still have untested concepts on added flyweights. Edited April 20, 2011 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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