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Clutch Lever Arm Faults


renegade
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My sy250r has a faulty clutch lever arm, (Thats the bit that that links the slave cylinder to the clutch push rod inside the engine), the crank on the top has slipped around the shaft and when you apply the clutch lever pressure it does not clear the clutch sufficiently, it has been adjusted to the limit, i.e the slave piston reaches the point that "O" ring is exitng the cylinder and causes loss of fluid.

I have the new components and will do the job in the morning, Scorpa workshop manuals are notoriously non existent and the website is useless.

Has anyone pulled one apart before to do this repair? It's propably fairly straight forward but without a manual any advice would be appeciated.

Or just as good does anyone have a workshop manual that is realy a workshop manual and not something poorly copied from a website in Outer Mongolia and sent by pidgeon to someone in Texas and then faxed to a blind man in Nigeria which he sold on Ebay?

Any help much appreciated.

Kind regards John

Edited by renegade
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I think I understand the problem, but not the question?

If your arm or shaft is stripped from being loose or something, you could just simply tack weld the arm to the shaft in proper position with a mig! Takes seconds! Done! You never take it off anyway, best I figure, But since you have new ones?

If you ever did need to remove them, just cut the weld, they were done anyway!

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OK I have news for Scorpa owners

Removing the clutch lever arm is simple, getting to it is a bit more of a problem.

rear mudguard off, tank off, air box off, rear shock top bolt removed and shock rolled over to rear tyre, exhaust centre and rear boxes removed, coolant drained, rear brake lever bolt removed to allow clutch case to pass, kick-starter removed, clutch casing removed, clutch bolts and springs removed (make sure you have the torque settings and the torque wrench if you are going to attempt this),

As there is now no pressure on the clutch springs; the clutch lever arm will now rotate 270deg and lift straight out. Lubricate the new clutch lever arm (see Yamaha engine manual - http://www.thehellteam.com/) and insert, rotate round to correct position and refit clutch springs and bolts, torque set the bolt!!! Check the clutch lever arm is engaged, reasonable pressure applied with a strong thumb will open the clutch plates, be very careful not to bend the new clutch lever arm.

Reassemble in reverse.

Comments;

1 - Some have suggested repairing the clutch lever arm, looking at mine the metal fatigue that has caused the split in the weld between the shaft and the lever arm has resulted in a stress weakened lever arm and it

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HAM 2

Thanks for your response, I checked the link you sent and I found a similar issue when reasembling. I think its a question of using the adjustment available for what it is intended.

As the slave cylinder has only closed and open (fixed quantity of fluid delivered by master cylinder on each stroke) and all the adjustment is on the lever arm. Therefore adjust the lever arm settings to the point they make no real effect on the clutch this gives the space to set the clutch lever on the bars. Then adjust the lever arm adjustement on the slave cylinder to gain the desired effect on the clutch. Add to this some personal fine tuning and bobs your aunt.

Cheers mate thanks for replying, I was beginning to think I was the only Scorpa owner on planet earth.

I am going to talk to Scorpa about getting some pukker workshop manuals on a website somewhere, they are available for just about every other make of trials bike why not Scorpa?

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Renegade

Scorpa has always had the manuals available for the current years models available on their website.

The bikes have also been supplied new for a number of years with the manuals on CD.

There is also the current and a lot of the older manuals available on the extensive Scorpa Australia website www.thehellteam.com

There is very comprehensive engine manuals, parts manuals, and user manuals.

If you purchased new they should have come with the bike. if you purchased second hand maybe you should speak with the previous owner.

Arnoux

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Hi Arnoux and thanks for your reply.

I got most of my information for the engine from www.thehellteam.com thank god forAustralians. Even though the engine manual depicts a cable operated clutch and not hydraulic as fitted.

Its just a pity that France is only a 26 miles away from the English coast and you have to talk to someone or acess a website on the other side of the planet to get a sensible answer. I'm a cosultant engineer who loves his Scorpa, but if Scorpa came to me with a business proposal or a technical proposal I would have to turn then down on the basis "lack of technical support", at least one of the dealers on the website does not exist and another no longer supports Scorpa. Those that exist say the part numbers in the manuals no longer match those from stock and with no update bulletins its a bit pot luck.

It costs nothing to post the previous manuals alongside the present by year of manufacture. Then we could see changes and modifications and clearly identify variations in components. If it is available to the Australians why not the manufacturers website. Most of the links on the Scorpa technical sections are missing, even if the links are shown they just sendyou back to the home page and tell you te page is not available. Please don't give me the language barrier as an excuse the engine manuals were all originally written in English, and some of us are fluent in technical French.

I tried to order a CD and was informed by a "UK Scorpa Dealer" that it is a "user manual not a workshop manual and as such is useless". The original user manual I have in hard copy, its for numpties.

I,ve just sold my Fantic 200, and I found it easier to obtain parts and information on a 25yr old bike than a 3 yr old bike. Beggars belief.

Piti

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At The Hell Team / Scorpa Australia we are trying to get all the manuals onto our website eventually. We are most of the way there, and i hope to be able to supply all years as soon as possible.

Unfortunately it's not "free" to post them as you stated Renegade. i have to pay for the data storage and the bandwidth usage. So everytime you download a manual from our site it does cost us. Saying that it won't stop us trying to give the best support possible. if there is anything that is stumping you don't hesitate to email me and I'll attempt to give you a clear and concise answer, or find one for you. no matter were you are!

Arnoux

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Arnoux

Got the bike sorted now, clutch working just fine and thanks to Hell Team for the information.

I am now in a meaningful realtionship with my machine and had a faultless trial on Sunday as far as machine reliabililty is concerned. The rider (me)however did not do so well. That'll teach me not to ride a level higher than I'm used to.

regards

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My sy250r has a faulty clutch lever arm, (Thats the bit that that links the slave cylinder to the clutch push rod inside the engine), the crank on the top has slipped around the shaft and when you apply the clutch lever pressure it does not clear the clutch sufficiently, it has been adjusted to the limit, i.e the slave piston reaches the point that "O" ring is exitng the cylinder and causes loss of fluid.

I have the new components and will do the job in the morning, Scorpa workshop manuals are notoriously non existent and the website is useless.

Has anyone pulled one apart before to do this repair? It's propably fairly straight forward but without a manual any advice would be appeciated.

Or just as good does anyone have a workshop manual that is realy a workshop manual and not something poorly copied from a website in Outer Mongolia and sent by pidgeon to someone in Texas and then faxed to a blind man in Nigeria which he sold on Ebay?

Any help much appreciated.

Kind regards John

John,

I just had the my 03 all apart and measured everything. Nothing was out of spec. The only thing not easy to measure is the angle at which the lever is welded to the shaft. The easy fix is to move the lock nut to the inside of the adjusting screw and adjust the adjusting screw so that it is flush or there abouts. This allows the slave cylinder to operate in the proper range. I think on my bike the top bracket was welded on at the wrong angle. Both Mike Komer and Ryan Young help me with the problem. Try this before you take the clutch apart or replace the slave cylinder. I did both to no avail.

DFW

Edited by dfwilson
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