angusgill Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 whilst taking my clutch off to change the metal plates to 1.3mm, so far i've got to the allen headed bolt in the centre of the clutch the one with the hollow centre. i was being carefull taking my time then my allen key slipped and its rounded the head any advice how to get it out?? i though about trying to bang a imperial allen key on or drilling the head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandelboy Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 try using a good tight fit torx bit and tap in dead square. lay the bike on its side so you can push down hard whilst undoing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 try using a good tight fit torx bit and tap in dead square. lay the bike on its side so you can push down hard whilst undoing. A T-15 Torx will fit and you can re-install the buttonhead screw, but you'd be a lot better off converting the 10 screws to the newer style 7mm head 12-point screws that replaced them as an upgrade. You can also use a centerpunch towards the outside of the screw and work it around to back it out. If you are not using a new Allen wrench, the flutes are probably rounded off the end of the Allen due to use and you'll want to grind about 10mm off to keep it in good shape. Allen wrenches wear at the ends and it's a good idea to dress them now and then or you'll start stripping out screws. This is especially important on aluminum plugs like drain and clutch cover which will strip out when old wrenches are used on them (a T-45 Torx can be used to back them out). Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted July 28, 2008 Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 Hi Jon, I nearly wrote in about the 10 outer allen head clutch spring screws too! Angusgill, I think you mean the allen screw has rounded off in the clutch centre, this is pretty awkward to get to. Don't use a ball ended key! I usually tap these for a while with a drift prior to trying to loosen and then they usually come undone ok. Try tapping with a drift before using/jamming a torx key or imperial allen key. I find using those allen keys fitted into socket's work well here as you can exert a lot of force down onto the screw while twisting. Good luck, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 28, 2008 Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 Hi Jon,I nearly wrote in about the 10 outer allen head clutch spring screws too! Angusgill, I think you mean the allen screw has rounded off in the clutch centre, this is pretty awkward to get to. Don't use a ball ended key! I usually tap these for a while with a drift prior to trying to loosen and then they usually come undone ok. Try tapping with a drift before using/jamming a torx key or imperial allen key. I find using those allen keys fitted into socket's work well here as you can exert a lot of force down onto the screw while twisting. Good luck, PeterB. Geez, Peter, you're right! I re-read his post and I had gone on a rant about the wrong thing.... That capscrew has a machined down head that makes the Allen hole very shallow, I'm guessing to clear the tophat servo cylinder at full extention. Your advice is spot on. Some riders leave the capscrew and shouldered machined washer completely out, upon re-assembly, as it makes pulling the clutch basket off easier later on. The servo cylinder will hold the basket on due to the internal spring pushing the tophat against the fingers. I like to re-install it just because I don't like any slop in the basket hub/splined shaft junction (loose parts make me nervous) but it can be left out without problem as I know several riders who do it. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted July 28, 2008 Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 Geez, Peter, you're right! I re-read his post and I had gone on a rant about the wrong thing....That capscrew has a machined down head that makes the Allen hole very shallow, I'm guessing to clear the tophat servo cylinder at full extention. Your advice is spot on. Some riders leave the capscrew and shouldered machined washer completely out, upon re-assembly, as it makes pulling the clutch basket off easier later on. The servo cylinder will hold the basket on due to the internal spring pushing the tophat against the fingers. I like to re-install it just because I don't like any slop in the basket hub/splined shaft junction (loose parts make me nervous) but it can be left out without problem as I know several riders who do it. Jon One more thing to mention in this case is that You don`t really have to remove the clutch basket to change the clutch shims. They can easily be changed with the basket in place in the clutch house. This does of course not solve the problem with the center bolt, but if he is lucky - really lucky - he may not ever have to remove it... -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusgill Posted July 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2008 now i realise that, i just though it be nice to take it all off and look at the idler wheel as i think i might need replacing.. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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