mik60ish Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 After fitting new clutch, To my Tiger Cub, metal driven plates, friction plates & removing Serco alloy cover plate and reverting back to the original metal one. The clutch was really good dry with the primary cover of just trying it around the garden. Can I run the clutch dry as soon as I put oil in (100ml transmission fluid) it goes back to slipping on kick over etc? or just a drop of oil to lubricate the primary chain. The new clutch is a lot thicker overall and the 1/4 BSF adjusting grub screw is just hanging on the last few threads, so I loctited it until I stripped down again washed it all in petrol, now no slip until I can get a longer grub screw or convert it to metric. Or do I need a drop of SAE 30 in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subira Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 I'm no expert as my first Cub is a hundred bits at the moment. But I have heard of people running the Clutch dry, but the majority of folks have a 'little' oil in there - mainly to keep the chain happy. The recommendations on oil has varied from Multigrade - ATF - SAE 30 - 10Wt Fork Oil, so I think its a case of trial and error. How come you have abandoned the alloy cover ? I though that its supposed to be better than the metal original - as it doesn't flex. I been told to get my steels plates bead blasted, as this helps. Previously when I deglazed my Monty steels this made a difference - although the problem there is drag not slip. What condition is the clutch basket in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinnied Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 I am using 50ml ATF standard plates with serco front plate Vinnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29r Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Hmmm... Ah okay , here goes , I guess to start with is that the design needs lubrication . You've got the plates , mainshaft bush , the clutch baket bearing (that brass ring w/ balls ), pushrod /bush /contact at the adjuster, primary chain/gears and I'll throw in cooling for the electrics . Seems odd that you should have to modify the adjuster . Have to wonder if theres one too many or they are too thick . the basket/sprocket has fiber plates on both sides check it over too . I've found that spring adjustment somewhat critical (btw are they within specs ?) I played with mine until I got the lightest pull while making sure that the pressure plate lifted evenly ( as possible ) adjusting each spring accordingly . Gu'luk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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