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2000 Txt 280


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Hi there,

I've recently purchased a TXT 280 (2000 model) which appears to be in reasonable condition for its age.

I'm in the process of checking the bike over and being new to Gas Gas ownership, have a couple of questions I hope somebody can answer for me.

- the middle silencer had to come off for a small welded repair. On re-assembly, I used the original o-rings which seal it to the front pipe and unsurprisingly I'm getting some exhaust gases leaking from here when the engine is revved.

Looks like I'll need new o-rings but is there anything else I should use to ensure a good seal?

- the compression adjuster on the top of the left hand fork leg appears to be seized.

Is this something that can be checked easily or should I just leave as is? The front suspension seems OK, but then again I have nothing to compare it to. If it means stripping the forks I could be tempted to leave it for the moment.....

Any assistance greatly appreciated and no doubt I'll have more queries in due course.

Although I've had a few days out on trials bikes before, this is the first one I've owned and found it to be very manageable during the brief use its had to date. I'm also looking to join a club in the Edinburgh area (possibly Lanarkshire mcc) as a novice. I'm sure the bike's abilities will out do my own, but is the kind of machine that would do me? I haven't found it too fierce..!

Thanks for a great website.....lots of info.

Cheers,

Eddie.

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- the middle silencer had to come off for a small welded repair. On re-assembly, I used the original o-rings which seal it to the front pipe and unsurprisingly I'm getting some exhaust gases leaking from here when the engine is revved.

Looks like I'll need new o-rings but is there anything else I should use to ensure a good seal?

- the compression adjuster on the top of the left hand fork leg appears to be seized.

Is this something that can be checked easily or should I just leave as is? The front suspension seems OK, but then again I have nothing to compare it to. If it means stripping the forks I could be tempted to leave it for the moment.....

Hi Eddie,

I usually use some hi-temp Silicone sealer around the joint. Make sure the parts are clean and let it cure overnight.

There may be some corrosion inside the adjuster and sometimes taking off the cap and adding some penetrating oil down inside helps. Let it sit for awhile and then try to carefully twist the cap back and forth, very carefully, to free the screw inside.

If you know where the rebound adjuster is (set it at full off, or screwed out) you will be able to compare that to the height on the compression adjustment cap. If the rebound is full out and the compression adjuster is lower than the rebound adjuster cap, chances are that the compression adjuster has been screwed into where it has now seized, so you'll want to put most of the torque freeing it in a twisting out direction. This way, if the adjuster is already screwed full in, you won't damage the needle/seat down inside the damping mechanism buy trying to forch it in more while trying to free it.

Jon

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Many thanks for the advice.

On further examination of the adjusters I noticed a small allen headed 'grub' screw in the large cap bolt at the top of each fork leg.

Slackening off the grub screw allowed the adjuster to move freely so I'm assuming they're for locking purposes....

You live and learn!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lanarkshire are running trials Sat 6th Sept start 13:30 & Sun 7th Sept start 11:00 am. Todholes Farm, Fintry. Travel time from Edin approx 1.5hrs. To late for entry but you could have a look and observe if you want to meet riders. www.lmcc.co.uk

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