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Rusty Main Bearings


portman
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Yes I know the bearings are sealed but I reckon those holes are going to block up with carbon now anyway. And before that happens I reckon fine partials of carbon will make their way in-between the bearing and the seal and mess up the seals too.

Tell me if I'm crazy :rotfl:

Best of balance.

Neo

Edited by Neo
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Your crazy :rotfl:

Leave them open, it will let some oil get down to the seals to help lubricate them.

Oh and the (250 290) original bearings are

6206 Deep Groove Ball Bearing 30x62x16mm

2RS1 Sheet steel reinforced contact seal of acrylonitrile-butadiene rubber (NBR) on both sides of the bearing

E Reinforced ball set

TN9 Injection moulded snap-type cage of glass fibre reinforced polyamide 66, ball centred

C4 Radial internal clearance greater than C3

GJN Grease with polyurea thickener of consistency 2 to the NLGI Scale for temperature range

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Now I'm really worried :thumbup: ....particularly after buying the bearings......

Just been browsing the RYP forum and came across this post It says mains are only sealed on one side but the "2R" of the Sherco parts book description indicates sealed both sides and "sealed on one side" is in contrast to what Ryan Young told Resto.....So which type is it? :rotfl:

Best of balance.

Neo

Edited by Neo
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I hope you work through all this, did they need replacing after all? :rotfl:

This is a prime example of why (if i needed) these, I just get factory parts. Not worth the mental anguish! Get and go! It has taken longer to read and attempt to comprehend this thread than it would take me to do the motor job! My brane hurts now! :thumbup:

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This is a prime example of why (if i needed) these, I just get factory parts. Not worth the mental anguish! Get and go! It has taken longer to read and attempt to comprehend this thread than it would take me to do the motor job! My brane hurts now! :shutup:

You know Cope...I love this stuff :thumbup:

For me it's a challenge. I not only love battling past documented manufactures bull***t I also like to find a way of doing it better. Even if I can't prove it's better in the long run :D

By using the new Nachi Quest bearing I believe I'm doing it better. And by taking the advice of all you guys who have done it and seen before I believe I'm doing it better.

Of course the proof is always in the long term...but at least I did my best while I had the opportunity and I feel like I've learnt something of value. :shutup:

Now on the question of mental anguish..... To purchase two bearings and 6 seal plus two cir clips took 2 five minute drives and an educational chat with the people at the bearing shop.

To buy the rest of the parts from Sherco (who are 400Klms from me) has taken a price request email on Wed night, a chase-up phone call on Thursday. An other chase-up phone call on Friday. Another phone call to clarify part numbers. An email to order the parts and another phone call to confirm my credit card details.

So which one of these two transactions do you think caused the most anguish?

And yes the left side main (roller bearing) was definitely worn.

By the why here are my summary points of what I have learnt from all this...

If testing for Crankshaft float. Roller cadge bearings will float a lot further than ball cadge bearings....although you may not know which ones you have :lol:

All seals are readily available from the bearing shop...there's nothing super special about any of them.

80, 125 and 200 have 25mm 6205 bearing. Where as 250 and 290 have 30mm bearings 6206.

All new main bearings are ball cadge and rubber sealed on both sides.

From a maintenance point of view. The way a Shecro engine is designed is awesome. :rotfl: With the most trouble prone parts easily accessible under the side cover.

Best of balance.

Neo

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Please tell me you bought Viton seals for the mains?

Hi Ham,

Let me give you a technical tip....I learnt on Wednesday :shutup: .... You can spot a Viton seal with ease. Because the seal type (materials they're made from) are colour coded. So in Aus at least Viton seals are light brown and "10 a penny" :rotfl: The bearing shop I went to knew a lot about motor bike engines as they supplied all the motorbike shops in the northern Sydney coast.

But my area/situation may not be like other areas....So Stork955's advise to buy from Sherco is still valid and valued.

Anyway engine assembly won't be till next weekend (other parts take a few days)...a better use of my time than sitting around eating Easter eggs. :thumbup: ...But until that time I best not count my chicken before they hatch :lol:

Best of balance.

Neo

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Neo,

I ordered Sherco OEM bearings and seals from Ryan Young Products. As mentioned in my earlier post, I thought I had received the wrong bearings when I saw that they were sealed on both sides. I called Ryan and he assured me that the double-sealed bearings were correct. I took him for his word and installed the bearings. That was in April '07. Two years later, these bearings are still performing flawlessly. Best of luck to you.

-Resto

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Hi Ham,

the seal type (materials they're made from) are colour coded. So in Aus at least Viton seals are light brown and "10 a penny" :lol:

Neo

Maybe,maybe..the ones I took out were greeny-blue the ones I (eventually) put in were broon, as you say :thumbup:

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You know Cope...I love this stuff :lol:

For me it's a challenge. I not only love battling past documented manufactures bull***t I also like to find a way of doing it better. Even if I can't prove it's better in the long run :D

By using the new Nachi Quest bearing I believe I'm doing it better. And by taking the advice of all you guys who have done it and seen before I believe I'm doing it better.

Of course the proof is always in the long term...but at least I did my best while I had the opportunity and I feel like I've learnt something of value. :)

Now on the question of mental anguish..... To purchase two bearings and 6 seal plus two cir clips took 2 five minute drives and an educational chat with the people at the bearing shop.

To buy the rest of the parts from Sherco (who are 400Klms from me) has taken a price request email on Wed night, a chase-up phone call on Thursday. An other chase-up phone call on Friday. Another phone call to clarify part numbers. An email to order the parts and another phone call to confirm my credit card details.

So which one of these two transactions do you think caused the most anguish?

And yes the left side main (roller bearing) was definitely worn.

By the why here are my summary points of what I have learnt from all this...

If testing for Crankshaft float. Roller cadge bearings will float a lot further than ball cadge bearings....although you may not know which ones you have :marky:

All seals are readily available from the bearing shop...there's nothing super special about any of them.

80, 125 and 200 have 25mm 6205 bearing. Where as 250 and 290 have 30mm bearings 6206.

All new main bearings are ball cadge and rubber sealed on both sides.

From a maintenance point of view. The way a Shecro engine is designed is awesome. :thumbup: With the most trouble prone parts easily accessible under the side cover.

Best of balance.

Neo

So to summize, yours(06) came with the roller bearings which accounted for the end float and you state the bearing was worn on the flywheel side , yet you were initially unable to detect verticle movement, is that correct?

Then instead of finding the factory replacements, you opted for some other (super) bearing that is supposed to last better if you are lucky? And now you are the official test program pilot for this program which includes regular thrashing for the next decade to proove your point.

Is that also correct? And even yet, did the noise go away?

Just playing devils advocate here.

MC :blink:

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Just playing devils advocate here.

Hmmm...Cope you certainly know how to pour cold water on someone's enthusiasm :lol:

In my thread "Strange Rattle" I said..."I removed the flywheel and noticed a small amount of side-way play on the crank shaft"....and this play was not present on the right side.

I also said that I was ordering Sherco parts last Friday. Which means I might have them by tomorrow....So wishing for the best....that noise won't go away unit I put the engine back together and then back in the frame....which might be for another couple of weeks.

Please forgive me if I've done something wrong and caused some level of irritation...in some way :thumbup:

Best of balance.

Neo

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No,No Neo! Just a bit of p*** taking, as they say! :thumbup:

I think you are doing a super job, yet I still wonder about this noise issue. How does the piston ck out in the bore? And what condition is the skirt?

Just as a side note, we put together a go-kart motor a couple weeks ago. One of the fellows at work has his kids racing these little 50cc itialian jobs you see. Well these little crank bearings he got were SOO special! Little double row shallow groove things that actually would pivot a bit to allow for minor crank misalignments in the cases! As they need to get all they can out of these things!

The money spent on trick carts is just crazy, as everything is high science, yet highly regulated with the rules and the classes. What is little better than a weedeater motor costs $700.00 us !!!! :lol: Italians!!!!

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