wayne thais Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 (edited) I actually had some free time this afternoon and took the opportunity to install the new SPS carburetor on my 08 3.2. It was a simple remove and replace operation. Took the old carb off and installed the new one. Started it up, warmed it up and was amazed at the engine response, you can whack the throttle wide open and it does NOT sputter or cough, it just revs. Rode around the yard and the neighborhood for a few minutes and was very impressed. Hopefully I will be able to take it to the club in the next few days and give it a proper test. The significant difference between this carb and the stock one is the float bowl has a hollow knurled knob on the bottom and the main jet holder is much longer and extends down into the hollowed out portion of the knob. Wayne Edited August 23, 2008 by Wayne Thais Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarob Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Hi Wayne, Can you help me with some jetting and a few questions regarding 08 4t, what is the standard jetting and can it be improved, i've fitted a 3.5 slide and put needle to middle position, it seems to pick up better with no flat spot off throttle, whats this sps?? and can it be retro fitted?? is it just a float bowl drain plug + extended emulisifier tube?? Also what oil needs to be in it as no Repsol 4000!! stuff round here.... Hope you can help me please, Regards, Ian. Ianmargetts@btinternet.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarob Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 As you can see my lad was logged on and it come out as a question from him....!!!! I don't ride a 125 Gasser......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted August 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Good Morning, The SPS is the new carb that Sherco released on the 10th anniversary edition and will be using on the 09 4T's. At this time the only way to purchase it is by getting a complete carb. I asked about a retrofit and was told no! The body of the carb may be unique because of the way the emulsifier tube screws in, I did not check, it may be simply a new float bowl and the new emulsifier tube. On my stock carb, I went up one size on the pilot jet to a 45 and set the air screw around 1/2 - 3/4 turns out and it ran very well. The air screw adjustment is very critical for crisp running and good starting. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarob Posted August 23, 2008 Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Thanks ill have to investigate the carb bit, what about the oil, what do you recommend?? Regards, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted August 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Ian, I use Mobil 1, Racing 4T fully synthetic 10W-40 4 cycle motorcycle oil. I actually use Mobil 1 oil in allof my vehicles. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 The jetting was the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Mark, The jetting is not the same: Original: Pilot 42 Main 122 SPS: Pilot 45 Main 128 From a casual look it looks like the original carb could be upgraded to SPS with the longer emulsion tube and the extension on the bottom of the float bowl. Much less expensive than a new carb. If one could find a source for Keihin parts it should be a simple change (if indeed it will work, I am not going to take the new carb off to find out today). Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Wayne, I kinda figured there might be some jetting adjustments there with the changes. I had seen some of the carbs at the WR, but I am not sure who is doing the mods, maybe Paxau? The stocker was really good on your bike, as in my brief ride, most of the time I was just testing to get it to fail, which really did not happen with only one exception, I stalled it. If the new one is even better, that just gives me further reason to say that I do not need FI on the bike. And as long as this can be done, I support it, as it is basically bullettproof simplicity at it's best. And from a purist standpoint, that is the way to go. I shall not go into the point that simplistic reliable performance is what Sherco's are all about. You see, I always get these weird notions like "Where is this bike going to be in 5 or 10 years? Can you afford to maintain it? Will a fuel pump cost more than the bike is worth? Just thoughts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 "You see, I always get these weird notions like "Where is this bike going to be in 5 or 10 years? Can you afford to maintain it? Will a fuel pump cost more than the bike is worth? Just thoughts!" Good thoughts Mark! I am of the school that says KISS (keep it simple stupid). FI is great but as you say it can get expensive. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john.b Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Might be simple having a carb, but with fuel injection it must be nice to simply wash off your bike and ride it next time without checking to see if water has got in to the carb through the Sherco airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 A VERY SIMPLE solution to keeping water out of the Sherco airbox is to remove the rear fender and put duct tape over the airbox opening before washing, then replace the rear fender. Be sure and remove the duct tape before attempting to start. Ask me how I know. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john.b Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) That's not the problem, it's getting in to mine while riding deep streams etc. There is water in the airbox before I wash it off! I use silicone to seal off mudguard/airbox joint and it's still getting in. Thinking of trying to make a shroud to cover the airbox opening or experiment with jetski filters etc. Edited August 25, 2008 by scudo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 That's not the problem, it's getting in to mine while riding deep streams etc. There is water in the airbox before I wash it off!I use silicone to seal off mudguard/airbox joint and it's still getting in. Thinking of trying to make a shroud to cover the airbox opening or experiment with jetski filters etc. There are a number of mods and factory solutions to prevent water entry to the airbox, however, it is not a submarine! 1- Factory provided plastic shield in frint of airbox. 2- Factory provided flap over shocker. tips In a wet event-- seal with RTV the area between frame and airbox. Run a strip ov duct tape along the side of the airbox to mudguard junction. Make a drip flap of duct tape just aft of the airbox / mudguard junction as a deflector for water off the tire. Cover holes in skidplate with tape too. Cover area between rad and exhaust. If this arrangement will get through the Scottish, it should work for you! If you flood that, well you might drown! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 Oh, missed the obvious holes in mudguard, tape over! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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