smurf2471 Posted September 18, 2008 Report Share Posted September 18, 2008 (edited) Hi i have an gasgas txt 125 02, and to add the clutch fluid we use a compressor and this tin thing (it works quite good actually) But then after about a week my clutch looses its pressure and basically becomes useless. My dad has replace the o ring's and that has not helped so could any of you guys help us out? Thanks in advance, Smurf Edited September 19, 2008 by smurf2471 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabomb Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 You need to check the seals on the piston at the lever,if this doesnt improve things,check the o rings at the clutch end.sounds like you`ve done this so the piston seals could be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) Why use a compresser, ive always thought they work with air! Try doing a proper bleed on it, no compressors or that nonsense! pretty much like this 1. Turn handlebars so reservoir is level 2. Place rags anywhere you don't want brake fluid 3. Remove reservoir cover, diaphragm cover and diaphragm 4. Connect a bleed hose to the bleed valve 5. Loosen the bleed valve and pump the clutch lever 6. Stop operating the lever when no fluid flows out of the bleed valve 7. Close the bleed valve 8. Fill the reservoir 9. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cover 10. Install and tighten the cover screws Edited September 20, 2008 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 (edited) Why use a compresser, ive always thought they work with air!Try doing a proper bleed on it, no compressors or that nonsense! pretty much like this 1. Turn handlebars so reservoir is level 2. Place rags anywhere you don't want brake fluid 3. Remove reservoir cover, diaphragm cover and diaphragm 4. Connect a bleed hose to the bleed valve 5. Loosen the bleed valve and pump the clutch lever 6. Stop operating the lever when no fluid flows out of the bleed valve 7. Close the bleed valve 8. Fill the reservoir 9. Install the diaphragm and reservoir cover 10. Install and tighten the cover screws Now I see why Sherco clutches work so bad... LOL That list is a good start, but I think it does have a major errors. Stop operating the lever fhen no FLUID flows out? -Jan Edited September 20, 2008 by JanDyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 Now I see why Sherco clutches work so bad... LOLThat list is a good start, but I think it does have a major errors. Stop operating the lever fhen no FLUID flows out? -Jan Ahhh you see, thats because i copied straight from the owners manual for my dads fireblade! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve0 Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 I get better results by back bleeding mine, putting a syringe on the bleed nipple on the engine and forcing the oil back through to the reservoir, I do this four or five time until no bubbles come out with the oil. It can be very messy but wrapping an old towel around the bar and reservoir helps catch most of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 (edited) Hi i have an gasgas txt 125 02, and to add the clutch fluid we use a compressor and this tin thing (it works quite good actually) But then after about a week my clutch looses its pressure and basically becomes useless. My dad has replace the o ring's and that has not helped so could any of you guys help us out?Thanks in advance, Smurf It would appear that your problem is unrelated to the bleeding proceedure, i.e. "(it works quite good actually) But then after about a week my clutch looses its pressure and basically becomes useless". I'd probably put a rebuild kit in the master cylinder. Sometimes the first o-ring on the piston shaft will wear due to grit getting inside the rubber boot (I use DOT-5, which does not deteriorate the rubber) and any ingested dirt will slightly enlarge the first part of the bore (brake fluid+fine grit=grinding compound). The combination of slightly tapered bore and worn o-ring can allow air to get sucked into the M/C as the clutch is used a lot more than the brake and the throw is always longer. Oh, I'd also check the fittings just to be sure. Jon Edited September 22, 2008 by JSE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.