mcman56 Posted September 21, 2008 Report Share Posted September 21, 2008 I'm in the process of disassembling a C15 that has been sitting for some time and is somewhat rusty. I can remove the nut from the fastener that holds the kicker on .....but even a sharp hit with a hammer will not drive it out. (the opposite end is round and looks like the end of a dowel pin) Does anyone know how to get this out? Does the fastener have some flat sides that keep it from spinning? While on the subject, the motor is also locked up. I have the head off and got the cyliner moved up about 1/16" but that is as far as it will go. The piston is not at TDC so even if it is the frozen piece, the cylinder should move farther. Are there any recommendations on this? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 Hi mc, The kickstart is held on with a cotter pin, it is a round bar shape with a taper flat machined along it's length, the nut tightens the kickstart in against the kickstart shaft. To remove, remove the nut and knock out the pin with a suitable drift. Try some penetrating oil poured in to the top of the piston overnight and maybe use a heat gun (like an industrial version of a hair drier) to warm up the outer surface of the cylinder then tap gently with a large wooden block as a drift, on the top of the piston. This may shock the piston loose. When you get to the clutch, you'll need a special imperial thread puller for the clutch centre, can't remember the thread but I have one here, I think there is a website in the UK with this relevant info - saw it in a previous BSA posting. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big john Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 www.trialsbits.co.uk Big John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 The problem with the cotterpin is that under the force of kickstarting they bend inside the kickstart. You may have to get pretty brutal with the drift to get it out. Watch your sidecasings.... I'd like to get a splined kickstart shaft fitted on mine as I'm fed up with the cotterpin arrangement but not sure if they do them for the distributor model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 Cotter pins are fine once you get used to them. I use a tube with a hole large enough for the pin to pass through. This tube has to be the length / distance from your kick start to the ground (with the bike standing vertically. The idea is that as you hit the threaded end of the cotter pin, the forces are transfered to the ground rather than trying to bend the kickstart shaft. Use a bras drift or similar , and something like a Thore hammer, which gives a good solid thump. Replacement cotter pins can be bought from a pedal cycle shop. Normally I start the pin moving with the nut still attached, but undone till it is flush with the top of the pin, this stops you damaging the threads. Hope this helps. Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 Thanks for the advice. I was able to use the "tube" method by positioning a deep socket on the back side and using a big hammer. Prior to hearing that the pin was tapered, I started to drill it out from the big side. Luckily, I did not get too far. Even with the pin out, it was a bear to get the kicker off. I used pullers, heat and finally a hammer. The shaft had bulged where the pin pressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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