copemech Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 At the shop most of the chains we clean are oring chains. So jet wash is only from a little distance. This is what we do: 1. Soak the chain with a penetrating oil (Zep45, it penetrates better than wd and has a ptfe lube in it, Another commercial name is Tri-Flo) while washing the rest of the bike. 2. Using a plastic brush scrub if really caked, rarely needed though. 3. Soak with S100 soap, and allow to soak. 4. Spray off grunge while spinning wheel. 5. Use compressed air to help dry more quickly. 6. Soak rollers and both sides of chain, trying to concentrate spray on all joints. 7. later before use a chain lube can be applied if conditions indicate, although the ZEP45 is an excellent lubricant. Cope I bet I can switch you off of WD! You may be correct there Paul, although for the most part we are talking non-o- ringed chains here. WD-40 is very basic, yet it does work. You see most on this forum are too cheap to buy tri-flow! I have it sitting here, yet I don't use it for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulthistle Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 Cope, Zep makes the Tri Flo product, but I buy it under Zep's Zep45 label. The can is 18oz's of product. It is a huge can for about $6. We use the same procedure for standard chains, I was just pointing out that you had to be careful with the pressure washer and an oring chain. Cause I was sure someone would be watching for that. So, go ahead use up that tri-flo. It works really well in so many places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarev3 Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 I'm surprised nobody has mentioned my method, which works a treat and is pretty cost effective. 1. soak chain in detergent cleaner whilst you clean the bike - I use 'section one' which is very good 2. Wash off with hose as per rest of bike 3. remove chain and dry with a rag or leave for a while to dry naturally 4. Wipe any crud off sprockets with petrol wetted rag - comes off easy! 5. Wash chain in petrol - use a small brush if neccessary to remove build-up. 6. Dry with rag and then leave for a short time until petrol is all evaporated. 7. soak for a short while in a container of used gearbox oil - agitate to distribute oil to internal pins. 8. Remove and hang to drip dry - put oil container underneath to recycle excess. 9. Refit and spin the wheel a bit to distribute lubricant CAUTION - wear protective gloves to protect your hands from oil and petrol - oh and don't smoke while doing the job!!! Sounds long winded, but only takes 15 or so mins to complete really You will be amazed how much crap will be in the petrol after cleaning, even if the chain looked good before - this fine crap is abrasive and if not flushed out will be wearing down your chain like grinding paste. The petrol can be recycled loads of times, and you only need a little anyway. The gearbox oil is free, and thick enough to protect for a full days riding, but thin enough to prevent much dirt pick-up. No need for expensive spray lubes that are all crap IMHO This method works very effectively and my chain is showing no signs of wear after many months of regular use. Oh, and not for 'O' ring chains - no ideas there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 I'm surprised nobody has mentioned my method, which works a treat and is pretty cost effective. 1. soak chain in detergent cleaner whilst you clean the bike - I use 'section one' which is very good 2. Wash off with hose as per rest of bike 3. remove chain and dry with a rag or leave for a while to dry naturally 4. Wipe any crud off sprockets with petrol wetted rag - comes off easy! 5. Wash chain in petrol - use a small brush if neccessary to remove build-up. 6. Dry with rag and then leave for a short time until petrol is all evaporated. 7. soak for a short while in a container of used gearbox oil - agitate to distribute oil to internal pins. 8. Remove and hang to drip dry - put oil container underneath to recycle excess. 9. Refit and spin the wheel a bit to distribute lubricant CAUTION - wear protective gloves to protect your hands from oil and petrol - oh and don't smoke while doing the job!!! Sounds long winded, but only takes 15 or so mins to complete really You will be amazed how much crap will be in the petrol after cleaning, even if the chain looked good before - this fine crap is abrasive and if not flushed out will be wearing down your chain like grinding paste. The petrol can be recycled loads of times, and you only need a little anyway. The gearbox oil is free, and thick enough to protect for a full days riding, but thin enough to prevent much dirt pick-up. No need for expensive spray lubes that are all crap IMHO This method works very effectively and my chain is showing no signs of wear after many months of regular use. Oh, and not for 'O' ring chains - no ideas there.... Way too much handling here and excessive hydrocarbon evaporative emission! Just jetwash the crap out of the thing and apply the WD or triflow after, works the same! WD must be applied more often if it is a muddy event obviously, yet I will only normally re apply after the day, so on a two day, it is dry in the morning to minimise slingoff! A soak in regular oil still leads to too much buidlup of crud, it IS going to wear anyway! I just did my thouough cleaning in mineral spirits and a good wire brush after a full year on. Adjusters still on half. Oh well! M2C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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