jordi Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 My other half has a Canon EOS400D and is struggling to get some really sharp trials pics, especially in darker areas. Have any of you snappers out there got any tips on settings etc you can share? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjt706 Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 What kind of lens do you have? You will need to take the pictures useing the lowest f/stop you can. Pics will be brighter,action will be stopped better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Depends what modes she's shooting on, I use an EOS 30D and will shoot either Av or Tv settings. On Tv set a shutter speed of 1/250th of a sec, fast enough to freeze the action in trials and the camera will select the best aperture to balance the shot. On Av set a low f number depending on your lens and the camera will sort out the shutter speed. You can also crank up the ISO numbers, start at ISO 400 and increase it a bit is necessary. Lastly get a decent flash gun that'll help. not sure what the Flash Sync speed is of the 400 mines and the ones above is at 250th of a sec so perfect for trials. This one taken at Witches Burn, not too bad a place to shoot but in a shady bit of woodland, 250th of a sec @ f5.6 flash on but bounced up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordi Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 What kind of lens do you have? EFS 18-55 & 55-250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 You need to get the shutter speed up (faster) or the moving object will be blurry. try at least 1/400th of a second or faster to start. You can work down from there. You also have to have the object in focus or it will be "soft". In low light, the photo will be underexposed when you force a higher shutter speed to stop the action. You can capture more light for a given shutter speed if you use a "faster" lens - ie, a lens with a very wide max aperture. (like the previous poster suggested) usually F2.8 or better. OR, you can turn up the gain on the sensor - a higher ISO. Or both when in poor conditions. In low light, you will probably need to use ISO 800 to ISO 1600 along with a "fast" lens in order to get the shutter speed high enough. I believe this camera has AUTO iso, so if your in Tv mode (uses a set stutter speed and varies aperture to yield correct exposure) and set the speed to say 1/400 of a second, the ISO will automatically adjust to the lowest value to obtain the desired speed. If you have a slow lens, you will have to use a cooresponding LONG shutter time or slow speed. MISC tips: Take the picture at the peak of a jump and the rider will be going slower that the runup. , Learn to pan - move the camera along with the rider, while using a slow shutter speed. , use a powerfull external flash. - EX series are far more flexible, but pricey. worth it if your into it. Use the center AF point ONLY - for faster AF response - especially with a fast lens. (better accuracy as well) I personally use a combination of higher ISO, and alittle flash (fill) for trials (I dont have a fast wide angle lens) Becarefull, Too much flash and you wash everything out in the foreground and get a dark background. Also - get good at photoshop and you can work wonders as long as the pic wasnt too blurry to begin with. Oh yah - read the manual for the camera. they have all sorts of good info in them for better pics. Good luck and have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02-apr Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Can I put in a plea here? I've been riding for many years and if there's one thing that really annoys me it is someone popping off a flash, particularly at very close quarters as is often the case, when I am trying to ride a section. I have also been taking pictures at trials for many years with fairly basic equipment (using mainly reversal film in the old days) and have not yet had to resort to using flash and would not impose that on riders anyway. I suppose the pros absolutely have to get their picture so we have to thole that. The "spectator" does not have that imperative so, if it is too dark to shoot without flash, than I go to another section and shoot there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 That is a nice shot of Donna's Sherco there Slapshot! I tend to agree with you on the settings, it works well, and I have seen a few others of his shots! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 That is a nice shot of Donna's Sherco there Slapshot! I tend to agree with you on the settings, it works well, and I have seen a few others of his shots! Watcha mate...I'll send you a set of the pics from the Scott Trial last weekend. A lot of it's trial and error from a strong start point. Different cameras, different setting, different results. Jordi have a look at these, all of a similar basis Clicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 Another thing is the fact that it depends upon the results you want, I can shoot from a good distance with a wide lens set in high res. Cropping the shot can still give excellent res on a computer screen if the focus is good. Too much zoom really cuts your available light, even in the 18-55. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 (edited) Few different ideas from the Scott over a couple of posts 1. Close up - Wayne Braybrook just as he started - tight close up (safe distance.....) but taken at f8.0 1/80th Sec blurs everything else - Love the intensity in his eyes at the start 2. BrayBrook at Surrender - 1/250th Sec@f6.3 open image shows a bit of the section Edited October 24, 2008 by Slapshot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 24, 2008 Report Share Posted October 24, 2008 (edited) Next 1. A Shell-Shocked looking Fuji at Whaw - 1/250th sec @f5.6 2. Mark Sunter on the Bultaco twin shock at Whaw - wider perspective Edited October 24, 2008 by Slapshot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 25, 2008 Report Share Posted October 25, 2008 I'm just glad Braybrook did not have a chainsaw in his hands on the first one! What was the setting on the one of Sunter? You see, these folk are not going that fast, even at 1/250 Fuji's spokes are nearly frozen! This is why I lean with Slapshot as many times faster shutter speeds are simply not needed, and in effect may cancel a sense of motion or speed in the shot which MAKES it dynamic and real. You see, it is difficult enough to capture the scene in only two dimentional representation, never does it justice anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 (edited) I'm just glad Braybrook did not have a chainsaw in his hands on the first one!What was the setting on the one of Sunter? 1/250th sec at f5.6, set on ISO320, 22mm focal length You see, these folk are not going that fast, even at 1/250 Fuji's spokes are nearly frozen! This is why I lean with Slapshot as many times faster shutter speeds are simply not needed, and in effect may cancel a sense of motion or speed in the shot which MAKES it dynamic and real.You see, it is difficult enough to capture the scene in only two dimentional representation, never does it justice anyway. You always need a sense of the perspective to give the motion effects. Andy has a superb panned shot on here somewhere of Michael Brown at the British Champs round in Kinlochleven real sense of the dynamics of the sport. Pune in a vertical position just about to hit the splat. clicky Again the shot below of Wayne Braybrook at the Scottish this year, closeness of the shot, the fact the there is motion on the front wheel and the look of intensity on his face makes the shot for me....(1/250th sec @ f7.1...17mm..Distance about 18 inches away) Edited October 26, 2008 by Slapshot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 27, 2008 Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 1/250th sec at f5.6, set on ISO320, 22mm focal lengthYou always need a sense of the perspective to give the motion effects. Andy has a superb panned shot on here somewhere of Michael Brown at the British Champs round in Kinlochleven real sense of the dynamics of the sport. Pune in a vertical position just about to hit the splat. clicky Again the shot below of Wayne Braybrook at the Scottish this year, closeness of the shot, the fact the there is motion on the front wheel and the look of intensity on his face makes the shot for me....(1/250th sec @ f7.1...17mm..Distance about 18 inches away) Now THAT is science! Get close , wide angle, pan a bit, and CLICK just at the front wheel crosses the big boobs! Perfect! Depth of field on a good day is a wonderful thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapshot 3 Posted October 27, 2008 Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 Now THAT is science! Get close , wide angle, pan a bit, and CLICK just at the front wheel crosses the big boobs! Perfect! Depth of field on a good day is a wonderful thing! Typical of you...I never even noticed the attractive lady in the background in any of the 70 or 80 pics I have from the same spot....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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