mattya Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 hello can any one please help my sherco 250 2004 has just draged me round the woods becouse the clucth dint'ent free off it had been running for 5min to warn up before i tryed to put it in to gear the bike had been stud for a week please dont tell me i'll have to put up with it i only weigh 4 stone wet through so olding on is a bit of a problem can any one out there help?? Matty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabomb Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 hello can any one please help my sherco 250 2004 has just draged me round the woods becouse the clucth dint'ent free off it had been running for 5min to warn up before i tryed to put it in to gear the bike had been stud for a week please dont tell me i'll have to put up with it i only weigh 4 stone wet through so olding on is a bit of a problem can any one out there help??Matty Shercos do this,i dont know why,but you just have to live with it.Make sure you start it up somewhere flat then just go round in circles with the clutch pulled in and blipping the throttle.Mine usually frees of in about 10 secs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 My 290 doesn't do it, but my lads 80 does - they're treated exactly the same. You can put it in a high gear before you start it and rock it backwards and forwards with the clutch in until it clears, or you can keep the brakes on after you've knocked it in to gear and wait for it to clear - usually about 10 or 20 seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ishy Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 When done riding, pull in the clutch, and wrap a rubber band round the lever and bar, to keep the lever held in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 The only problem with using the rubber band method is that you are compressing all the clutch springs while you're not using the bike,which can't be good for those springs. If you ride as infrequently as me that's too much time for those springs to be compressed. I've had 4 Shercos to date and they've all had this quirk,mind you I've had a couple of old Gassers and a Mont which did the same thing. I believe it's the surface tension of the oil sticking the plates together momentarily (someone else may be able to clarify/contradict that). Like BikeSpace says: Rocking the bike in 5th gear/clutch in,to free it up before you even start the bike..... comes as second nature to me now. My mate had another method...he used to open the throttle, full bore,immediately from stone cold! to spin the clutch up. Funny how he only did that to my bike and never his own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattya Posted November 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 Thanks to all you lot out there for the advice on the clutch matter would you help me just as much in my first trial Lol ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ishy Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 The only problem with using the rubber band method is that you are compressing all the clutch springs while you're not using the bike,which can't be good for those springs.If you ride as infrequently as me that's too much time for those springs to be compressed. I thought the same, when I saw a lad doing it, but didn't say owt, just thought I would see what happened. Then his mate also thought it was a good idea and started doing the same thing, cool for me, I now had two test subjects, then a lad complained about it to me, so I suggest he tried it too, none have had any problems with slipping clutches, so it probably works. Do I do it? no need, I ride my bike often enough it's clears easy, when it does start dragging a bit I used to change the oil, but now I just sell the ****ers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 Does it less with tqf, changed more often than needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Does it less with tqf, changed more often than needed. Wtf is tqf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john.b Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 (edited) Copemech, I think it is Castrol TQF and it is their ATF. I Edited November 27, 2008 by scudo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 Check out these posts.... Trials Australia Trials Australia 2 Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 I have been running some experiments with the clutch thing. Not totally sure about any of it, but it does seem to me that something changed in the bikes other than the levers come around the '06 models, as many others have seemed to note the clutches being a bit too grabby and quick off new. Not sure exactly but I think the springs have changed. Possibly even the plates? Anyway, lately I have been running the '07 bike with the -2 setup, and light oil. Remove two opposing springs and bolts. I am on the Merc fully synthetic ATF, good stuff for sure as properties go. All I can say is that it is DIFFERENT! For sure! Lever pull is proportunatly light by 1/3 with less build pressure required to make things move you actually need to readjust the lever a bit. No slippage in normal trials gears, full bite does not come till late in the travel though, much like a gasgas clutch on a new one. Just a toutch will give a bit of rev and pop! Better progression and a wider range of feel, yet at the same time the feel seems to vary just a bit. You are basically riding on the fluid here! Yes , you can make it slip on a full rev and dump in 4th or 5th, but so will a standard bike on the thicker oils. I am in a bit of a connundrum about this whole thing at present, yet it does seem to work. My poor clutch finger likes it, the bike does not seem to care, and the plates seem far less sticky after sitting! Still working on springs! It is all on the edge, not recommended to the experts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted November 28, 2008 Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 Anyway, lately I have been running the '07 bike with the -2 setup, and light oil. Remove two opposing springs and bolts. I am on the Merc fully synthetic ATF, good stuff for sure as properties go. Good-on-ya Cope I've been running my clutch like that for almost 2 years now...and I love it!! ...did you get the idea from me? But I'd still recommend the Castrol Edge Sports to complete the setup....less squeal, smoother action.....normal only "cold drags" when it really need a change. BTW...I've noticed that when the gearbox oil is changed for another type....It takes a week or so before the oil really soaks into the plates....and show it's character. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 29, 2008 Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 To some extent we have run the 4 spring setup for some years, primarily in the youth and womens bikes like the 125's. I do recall trying it in the '03 125, yet the pull was almost rediculously light and gave poor feedback due to the "float" effect of the thicker oil so I put it back to normal. This bike had the short length levers which have an advantage as compared to the 'mids" in pivot length. I still think there was a change in the spring rates from the factory in the later bikes, wanting a better bite for the upper class riders. I know there were other clutch mods for them at the time as well to make them quicker to bite! Not sure it is all spring? You see, there still needs to be a definate full pop to perform any advanced maneuvers such as a zap and it needs to happen NOW! Even fully revved in third gear! NOW! Of course, if you never need it it matters little, you will never slip it enough to do any harm through heat or wear. Seems we did have a local expert who burnt his up after a year on the 4 spring setup. Not sure which oil he was running though. For me, I could probably run for years with no problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted November 29, 2008 Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Sticking clutch solution. People do not like this method but it works and Ryan Young is the one who told me about it. Put the bike in 5th gear and push down on the kickstarter, that will free up the discs, if you are afraid it will start hold in the kill button. Works every time. Another solution is to take the discs out and rough up either the metal plates or the fiber discs in order to eliminate the super smooth surface. Oil on the super polished discs causes them to want to stick together. This particular solution came from RLracer. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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