gixxer Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Hi everybody, just wondered if anyone has seen this issue before because its getting a bit scary now..... My 08 3.2 4t is finally working great (starting well) since having a full carb service.... but now this months problem is with the clutch whenever I'm on a steep hill incline - the lever just goes very light when pulled and the clutch does not work at all. The problem is when I try to get control on the clutch, its not working at all and the bike just wants to keep moving in gear - can imagine the near misses I've had and the fun is wearing thin. As soon as I get back on to a fairly level area and work the clutch (a couple of lever pulls) typically gets the clutch back to normal - it works fine when the bike is not on an incline. Have had the oil changed and checked so don't think its that as it was done by my Sherco dealer using their recommended oil. Any thoughts on what could be the problem? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) It sounds like you have some air in the system, make sure that you do not have any leaks and then bleed the system, I believe there is a service manual that covers bleeding the brakes on the Sherco/RYP sites. The information is correct for your 3.2. You may also have a bad seal in the clutch master cylinder that is allowing fluid to pass by it. I would try getting rid of the air first. Wayne Edited December 3, 2008 by Wayne Thais Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 Hi gixxer, sounds like you don't have enough hydraulic fluid in the clutch master, but you may have probably checked this already. This being the case, may be air in the hydraulic system. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoholic Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 As previously suggested start by checking the clutch lever master cylinder reservoir. Has the fluid level dropped? Are the clutch hose connections tight and dry. Once you have topped up and bled the system of any air then if same problem persists, try checking the condition of the o-rings on the clutch slave cylinder puck. Any leaking fluid is not immediately apparent because of the o-ring seal between the slave cylinder and the crankcase. Please let us know what you discover as these forums thrive on feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 If you are getting a gulp of air in the system with a change of attitude of the bike, and a soft lever to follow, makes sense the fluid is low. Best I recall, the diaphram should displace ALL air when installed, and there should be no visible air in the sight glass. The diaphram will allow for expansion and contraction concerns of the fluid. If there a varience when holding pressure, something is leaking. Fluid does not compress and even trapped air volume does not change under a given pressure. If there are external leaks , the level will drop. If there are internal leaks(by the master cyl piston seal) you will find none and the fluid level will remain consistant, yet this would likely occur at all attitudes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxer Posted December 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 Wow... my first post and I am really grateful for all your responses - thanks everyone - will check out the points you made at the weekend. Thanks again, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
den Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 i have the same bike and also experienced this problem! Its happened twice both times it was on the same long climb that has very steep at the finish, the revs were quite high as i rode over the top and as i apllied the clutch it just carried on, i shut off and apply the clutch again and its back. i dont seem to notice any lightness on the clutch or any other problem for that matter! a bit scary to say the least as there is a shear drop yon side of the climb ? Im gonna take a look at the advise already given but just thought i would mention it regards den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 In an issue like that, check to insure your gearbox vent is not blocked~! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 A mate of mine had exactly this problem, he solved it by selling the bike, no amount of bleeding/seals etc could cure it? sure AtomAnt remembers the day in question at Top Farm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 A mate of mine had exactly this problem, he solved it by selling the bike, no amount of bleeding/seals etc could cure it? sure AtomAnt remembers the day in question at Top Farm Many of these things are even self induced! It is an odd thing that should not be overlooked, but a blocked gearbox vent tube can cause high case pressures. As the clutch slave is bolted and sealed to the case acting upon the pushrod, it is possible for the high case pressure to "push" the slave piston back into its hole just enough to require an extra "pump' from the master to offset it! And it will slowly creep back again with the case pressure if unused for a bit. As I do not have a 4T in front of me I cannot tell where they vent, but on the 2T, it is the small hose just to the left of the intake tract. It seems on the later years bikes it is normally run from there up and over the fuel inlet just inside the fuel feed line, then down past the shock to about skidplate level which normally prevents any water entry due to the uphill run that a cold contraction may produce. However it is still advisable to change your gear fluid if you have been running in water over the cases, as thermal contraction could be enough to suck a bit of water in! You see, the thermal effect can work in both directions and should not be overlooked in either extreme, blocked or not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Thats a good bit of advice Mark will remember that for the future thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadaler Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 (edited) OK...I realize this post is ancient history...however...I recently bought a 2008 3.2 which has the exact same issue. Didn't see any conclusive fix for the problem here. The owner I bought it off, who was meticulous with maintenance, warned me about the clutch issue going up hills. He said "you just have to get use to pumping the clutch lever a few times on the way up so it will still work when you get to the top." Here's what I have determined so far: -master cylinder is new and filled to the proper level -Slave cylinder has been rebuilt -system has been bled and shows no signs of spongy or light lever pull Just to try and eliminate issues I loosened the clutch lever perch and rotated the lever almost vertical to simulate the (worst case) position it would be in going up a hill. Rode the bike around like this for a while and there were no issues with the clutch working properly. I don't "buy" the theory that there is a hidden air bubble in the system which moves during a climb and affects the clutch action. As long as that bubble is in there...somewhere...the oil pressure when you apply the clutch will always compress the bubble first before your clutch works...no matter where it is in this closed system. Checked the vent hose which comes out of the valve cover (which is the only vent I could find) and it's clear. It seems obvious that something...only going up hill...which is pushing the slave piston back into the cylinder housing, enough to cause a gap between the clutch rod and the clutch pressure plate. This requires pumping the clutch lever 3,4 or 5 times to push the clutch rod back up against the pressure plate before it can disengage the clutch. What can be the source of this pressure on the piston? Crankcase pressure as one of the posters thinks? If so, why does it not happen under any other RPM or load condition other than when the bike is going uphill? Could it be an issue in the clutch pack itself? Doesn't seem likely to me. When the clutch is engaged the clutch springs push the rod against the piston causing it to retract. If the piston stays in that exact position the only other way to get a gap between the rod and pressure plate is for the clutch pack itself to expand a bit. That seems unlikely, if not impossible to me once it is engaged. And again...if it was an issue in the clutch itself it would not seem to make any sense that it shows up only going uphill. Could the oil level in the bottom end be covering the clutch piston area only when going uphill, making it possible to exert more oil pressure on the piston and causing it to retract? Crankcase pressure combined with a changing oil level when on an incline seems plausible I suppose. I can't seem to find any vent direct from the tranny area, maybe changing oil level on an incline somehow restricts the ability of the vent in the valve cover to vent the bottom end???? Hoping that someone has actually solved this problem and can pass it on to me or can chip in with any other thoughts/tests/solutions to the problem. I've scanned several 2008-09 videos of Cabestany on his 3.2 and can't find any that show him madly pumping the clutch lever going up hills Edited December 11, 2013 by canadaler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Uh!, no! But it does sound interesting! Yes, case pressures may be suspect, but not having a 4T I have no idea how they vent, as the oiling system is different. Not much here for reference that I can recall. Yet there are several folks that may know something. Not sure exactly where you are, but I would start with an email to Ryan Young at RYP USA, ask him and also get the number for John Isherwood in CA, as he rode the pants off them for a while. Email Chris at Splatshop.co.uk, and or MRS in the UK. Last recourse I know would be motosPaxau in Spain. There is a fellow there that will respond to you in English and very helpful. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 I had a Beta that would do this just once or twice a day. Never did figure it out. Replaced new master and new slave cylinder. Bled like crazy, but it only did it going uphill under power. We have a video of it on our clubs thread on adventure rider. It looks like I can`t ride as the bike just pulls away from me, all the while I`m trying to get the clutch to work. My son loves to watch that clip. Good luck and let us now what you find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwmwaima Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Sounds like a case of primary input shaft end float, caused by spiral cut primary drive and driven gears when under load , (eg hill climb ) suspect imput shaft bearing in right hand case is moving under load, by the time you want the clutch it is having to move back before clutch will work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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