nicbrrghs Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 new to this sport and would like a few pointers on bike setup! any help appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Sorry for taking so long to spot this topic. I take it you dont have a bike yet so I shall start from the very start with you. First question to ask yourself... Stock or Mod? Stock being a 26" bike and Mod being a bike with 20" wheels If you are quite tall or well built many people would advise going stock as theres more room to throw your weight around, or, on the other hand if your small(ish) or dont weigh very much many would advise going for a mod. The advantages of mod are mainly just the weight saved by having smaller wheels and a smaller frame. I wouldnt really bother looking into 24" bikes yet as there isnt much of a parts market. Correct frame choice is the most important part in my opinion. Frame geometry is what to look at. If you want to do lots of stuff on the back wheel get a frame with shorter chainstays and a higher bb rise or height. For a bike that sits nicely on the back wheel look the geo should be pretty simillar to this. 20" Wheelbase: Short 1015mm, Long 1030mm Chainstay Length: 362mm BB Rise: 60mm Head Angle: 72 degrees Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: Short 590mm (23.25"), Long 605mm (23.75") 26" Wheelbase: 1085mm Chainstay Length: 375mm BB Rise: 60mm Head Angle: 71 degrees Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 660mm (26") Or theres another kind of riding, pretty different from the one mentioned above. Its streetstyle which most the time involves tricky lines and lots of spins. Normally done on 26" bikes there are more options of 26" with the correct geometry than 20" but it is occasionly done with 20" bikes. You may see this kind of riding being carried out by Danny Macaskill or Ben Travis The best geo for this kind of geo normally involves a slightly lower bb rise and longer chainstays. Normally around 20" Wheelbase: 1005mm Chainstay Length: 362mm BB Rise: 55mm Head Angle: 71.5 degrees Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 590mm (23.25") 26" Wheelbase: 1100mm Chainstay Length: 385mm BB Rise: 30mm Head Angle: 72 degrees Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 690mm (27") You may have noticed that there isnt that much difference between the two 20" geo's but thats because, like I said there isnt much of this riding done on mods. Anyway, moving on, fork choice... this is a simple one really, You want something strong and light. Personally the best 26" are the old kind of forks like cannondale fatty's and so on but there not produced anymore. So for 26" look towards the likes of Echo Urbans or Kot Stocks 20" forks, this is the same, you want strong and light. Look towards Monty 221 PR forks or Echo Lites Next you will need the two most important components on your bike, the headset and bottom bracket. Nearly all frames on the market today have the same size shells for these components so I will give you names of a few. Just make sure you get an internal headset if you dont want to go round picking up ball bearings all the time. Headset, More of a budget headset the Onza internal is great, coming in at around a tenner it should do the job for a while. More pricey and reliable however is the Hope internal headset, these are great, ive had one on my monty for 4 years now, no problems with it atall. Bottom Bracket or BB. Like mentioned these are the same size wether a 26 inch bike or 20 inch bike, only variable is the axle length and type, isis or square taper, but this all depends on your frame, cranks and chosen freewheel, if in doubt while choosing phone tartybikes and ask, will mention them at the end of this post, you can get contact details from there. Anyway, the bb is something I wouldnt worry about price wise as this can seriously injure you if it fails, therefore I am only going to name the best value but very reliable bb. I would choose square taper axle's though, trialtech square taper bb is one of the strongest out there. Now youve chosen your bottom bracket you can choose your cranks. If you chose square taper you will find a much bigger choice, best budget square taper crank would have to be the Trialtech sport forged. If your have a large budget I would go for the worldwide renowned middleburns. same choice though if you chose isis as these two brands of cranks are available in both axle fitments. I hear you shout, well, what about the wheels? I shout back, we will come to that in a minute. We need to discuss brakes first. The major question going round the trials community is Dual Disk, Dual Magura HS33, Front HS33 Rear Vee Or Front Disk Rear Magura? Well I would definately go front disk they work in any weather unlike the Magura's Some say Rear Magura, they are very good with a rim grind, same story with a vee though. Disks again dont need rim grinds or tar and work in any condition, there is however a very small chance of hitting them on obstacles and bending or even snapping the disk, I run rear disk and have never had this happen but apparently it does. Choice is upto you though, before you go choosing though I would check out this thread from the pushbike trials forum http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....=disk+rim+brake Right now we come to the wheels, as you should know there are two main parts to a wheel, the hub and the rim... You should always choose your hubs first, fixed rear hub or freehub, another major question, I personally would use a front free wheel (ffw) This is a free wheel mounted on your bb axle. So, we are going to look at fixed rear hubs, now all depending on your brake choice you may need a disk compatible hub. Rear disk fixed hubs - they are rather pricey but consider that they are a vital component, cheapest one for single speed is the echo fixed 26", this fits 26" bikes. If you chose 20" the monty 221 ti hub is the best value Right, say you didnt choose rear disk? There is a Trialtech race rear hub, this is great value and very strong. this is in 116mm mod spacing. Freehubs, this is where the freewheel mechanism is inside the hub itself, there isnt much choice in these so I would recomend looking on tartybikes, there will be a link to there site in the end of this post. Just remember 26" bikes normally have 135mm spacing and mod bikes normally have 116mm spacing. Now the other part of the wheel... the rim. this ones pretty simple really, check the specs of your hub, if its 32H H standing for hole you will need a 32H rim, if your hubs 36H you will need a 36H rim So, depending on your choice of frame and hub you will either need a 32H 20" Rim, a 36H 20" Rim, a 32H 26" Rim or a 36H 26" Rim My simple way of making a choice for this one, if your going to be running a disk, choose Try-All If running a rim brake choose Echo. Same with a front rim. Front hubs pretty simple, same thing with the hole choice, 32H or 36H, choose a front rim to match, using the rim brake-Echo, Disk Brake-Try-all choice. Just aslong as the holes match the hub. Spokes and nipples will be required. If unsure on spoke lengths just phone and ask tarty again. So, youve got the basics, your bike should be looking like a bike now. Now you need a set of bars and a stem... Any bars and stem will do as a starting point, everybody has different preferences, just make sure the clamp diameters are the same. Get some grips, they all fit. Right then, if you chose too use a freewheel you could use a cheapy like an acs claw but if you have the money get either a tensile or a viz. If your frame has bashplate mounts you will need a bashplate:) once again, ask tarty about bashplates and bashrings as there all different. Now, all the smaller things Tubes, rim tape and tyres, read the info on tarty again and youll understand it all, tyrewise try-all tyres would be the best, they provide awesome grip, last long but cost a wee bitty more. Phone tarty and query about the bolts you will need. Thats your bike done, now, this company tarty I keep mentioning. www.tartybikes.co.uk Email them at tartybikes@gmail.com I keep telling you to phone them so I better give you a phone number too. Sales/Ordering: 01772 32 33 33 Technical/Returns/Warranty: 01772 32 33 55 Phone either, same guy normally answers both. All the guys there are really sound people, you can phone them up with a simple question and spend hours having a nice little conversation, if you dont have the time you dont have too have a long natter. Anyway, once your bikes arrived and built you will need to do the simplest things, tyre pressure, between 25-35 psi front and back. Roll your bars forward, adjust your levers till your levers feel are solid and the brakes rubbing, slowly re-adjust these till your pads only just no longer rub. Any more info just ask, Regards, Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) Damn, just read the description... Just roll your bars forward about 30 degrees from upright and run your tyres around 30 psi Edited January 10, 2009 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 i dont know about the bar roll so listen to some one else for that. for tire pressure i would just say go with what feels good. there is no set pressure. i weigh about 110LB , yes i am little but i am young so hopefully ill grow a bit, and i run about 25PSI on hard surfaces. soft and slick stuff ill go down to 10 or 15 PSI if i dont need to hop alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.