grahambaskin Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 Hi guys, Anyone have any ideas on the adjustment that can be made to the clutch in the 125 4stroke bike 2004. its a cable clutch, but you cannot use the clutch through sections as the min you pull the level you stop, or when you are taking off you nearly think your clutch will not work but at the very end she takes off.(no feel to the clutch just go or stop) At first I though it may be a stretched cable, but I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy m Posted January 5, 2009 Report Share Posted January 5, 2009 (edited) You can either lengthen the arm down on the engine by about an inch I think, fit an arm from a late TTR125 as they are slightly longer (you will need to remove the clutch to do this) or easiest option is fit 3 way clutch lever, this will give a lighter action and allows you to experiment with the clutch 3 ways. Ebay item no 110319736534. (sorry I can't do the link)I fitted one to my Scorpa 125 and it does improve it. There is a performance clutch available fromB &J racing in the USA, try the lever first though. Edited January 5, 2009 by bo drinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroke Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Make sure that the cable is routed without any tight bends, with the extended arm this makes the clutch operation very smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan collier Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Check you engine oil and change it if its done a bit of work, only 1L of 10W40 so pretty cheap to do. There's a mod to the push rod cam which helps a bit too, it needs the clutch taking apart to do IIRC. Lubricate all the pivot points from the lever down to the actuating arm as well. The venhill featherlite cable is worth having too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig10 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Mine's an early one, Oct 2003. I'ts got the longer actuating arm (done by the previous owner), the B & J Racing clutch plates and the three position lever fitted. The thing that I've done that's made the biggest difference is the three position lever (as mentioned by Bo Drinker) with the cable in the hole nearest the 'bars , also very cheap, although it does give a biting point almost at the full outward limit of travel of the lever. From memory, the engine end actuating lever on mine was lengthened by about 15mm. If you take the clutch casing off, be careful refitting it as the crank end feed oil seal had been damaged on mine by the previous owner. Turned out that the crank end had a bit of a sharp edge to it which I took off with an oilstone. It's still not as smooth as say a Sherco clutch but it's a lot better than it was. Edited January 8, 2009 by craig10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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