tom1 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Finaly got round to buying myself a proper trials bike a rather tidy 05 rev3 250, just really want to know how i check the gearbox oil level and coolant level before i take it for a spin? as it didn't come with manuals or anything. i presume the gear box level is checked through the viewing glass just forward of the gear selector? is that right? and what level should it show, currently shows half way on the glass when the bike is dead up right . i have no idea how to check the coolant level though having been riding an air cooled up untill now cheers for any help, T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsmick Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 best thing you can do if look for how much oil should be in the gear box on internet beta site.. then drain it and change it putting in the required amount. as for the coolent take top of the rad and fill it up excess will be blow out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 As Mick says dump whats in there out now and fill with new, ATF is a cheap option for the Grearbox and I'm pretty sure you need to put in 500ml for a fill. There is a sight glass on the casing to check if your running low at any time. Change the gear oil every 6-8 rides out depending on how long its been run for. Coolant again, fill to top and let it blow the rest out, it will find its level. There should be posts in the Beta section for the type of coolant you need to use as the casing can be prone to wear with time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betabonkers Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 to access coolant pop out left side plastic frame grill by by the side of petrol cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom1 Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 thanks for the reply fellas, i'l get it sorted before i take it for a spin on sunday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertrat28 Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) As Mick says dump whats in there out now and fill with new, ATF is a cheap option for the Grearbox and I'm pretty sure you need to put in 500ml for a fill. There is a sight glass on the casing to check if your running low at any time. Change the gear oil every 6-8 rides out depending on how long its been run for.Coolant again, fill to top and let it blow the rest out, it will find its level. There should be posts in the Beta section for the type of coolant you need to use as the casing can be prone to wear with time. Just to confirm, you are recommending ATF for the gearbox? I have it from a very reliable source that the Beta Rev 3 gearbox capacity is 500cc (1pt.) and uses 75W gear oil. I haven't yet changed my oil, but plan to add 75W gearoil. Is there a source for this info? Thanks much Found my own answer. ATF is used by many, just need to change it more often and seems to be a matter of preference. I'm going with the 75W PJ1 Clutch Tuner. Edited January 18, 2009 by desertrat28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgh Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Hi everyone. It took me a rather long time to figure out this with gearoil and clutch. Everyone have an opinion, cheap ATF or this and that. I want to share what I’ve learnt. My soon have an EVO125 2012 two stroke as his first bike. And we overhauled it before putting it in use. 1. The gear and clutch is in the same sump. Therefore you have to use an oil witch allows the clutch plates to disengage. NO ATF. That’s for automatic transmissions, and have no extra in it for disengaging the clutchplates. But it’s cheap……. 2. The amount is in manual 550ml. I’ve tried that, and so far so good. 3. Coolant. I use the red glycol, because it don’t interfere with any metal inside the engine. Can be used with aluminum and so on. My recommendation for gear oil is as follows Castrol MTX Full Synthetic 75W-140. This is designed for 2T and 4T with wet and dry clutch. It’s expensive, but it’s nothing you use a lot. (If you use cheap oil, it must be replaced often) When I changed too this oil, we could hear the noise from the engine disappear, and it’s running smooth. You will get what you pay for, at least with this oil. Clutch problem, not disengaging properly ! (Have too open lid, and dismantle the plates) Just check that you don’t have grooves or big marks where the plates (fiberplates and steel plates) are engage in the clutch cup (engine) and inner cup (gear). Grooves will look the plates, and disengaging the plates will be difficult. The bike will drag you forward. I hope I’m not stepping in an Ant nest now ? Sevre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.