woody Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 It comes with a short cable (say about 3") which goes between the lightner and your clutch lever. Then your existing clutch cable fits into the lightner. There is a lever inside the lightner with a 3 pivot points to get a leverage ratio, both cables fit to either end of the lever. The problem with this is that unless you shorten your clutch cable you end up with a very big and tight loop on its way down to the arm on the engine as it's fastening point has now moved by about 6". The Yam cable is already overly long as it is. The increased bending to route it may just negate any gain the gismo has. Having tried one on an Ossa in the past I didn't think it was that effective to be honest, but this is all subjective/personal opinion. First thing I'd do is fit a Venhill Featherlite cable as they can make a difference on their own, cheapest and quickest option. If it still isn't light enough for you then extend the clutch arm. How much by doesn't come into it due to its location. The shape of the engine casing means you can only add about 1" max, maybe not even that much, from memory. It's steel so you haven't got to find a welder who can weld alloy. If you do those two things I'd be really surprised if you didn't find it light enough. Mine has and it's a one figure pull easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Alan ; It's similar to the system SWM mounted on the bike back in the day ... But as woody stated it will make your clutch cable about 6 " longer . But depending on application it can be added at either end of the cable where there is room to hang it . If you can solidly mount the little box they perform much better . And I'm sure Bob @ B&J racing can make a new shorter clutch cable to fill your needs . And not to be rude or anything before all this , You do own a cable luber , right ? Best of luck with your experiments . Are you gonna try out some of the MTR events this year ? Jim is setting up classes and lines for us twinshock folks too !... Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) You can buy cable kits and make up one to suit. http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/index.php?cPath=65 cables http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/index.php?cPath=58 lightners Edited January 24, 2009 by B40RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee harris Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Removing two clutch springs would cause the pressure plate to rise unevenly when the clutch is pulled in. This could cause the clutch to drag and will cause uneven clutch plate wear. Yamaha put six springs in there for a reason, and they have been making motor bikes for a long time! Best thing to do is as Woody says and lengthen the arm on the under side of the engine. First of all though make sure your existing components are good like the lever, actuating arm and cable. You may find one of these is causing the heavy clutch, especially a badly routed cable. I dont find the clutch heavy on a ty 250 and to be honest once in the section its best left alone- for me anyway. Use it if you are in trouble, but i would suggest as a very last resort, but this is down to individual riding stile. Some can clutch in a section to their advantage, others clutch and fall off, some dont go near the clutch at all. If you watch a lot of twin shock or no stop rule trials you will usually see some riders with a finger or two covering the clutch lever just in case! my ty has 4 as do most of the riders here also. No problems, no drag, no slip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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