millerme Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 can any one help me i just bought a 2005 gasgas pro from a shop last week when i started the bike up and put it in to gear it made a small crunch in nosie when i put it into first gear rode the bike for about 5 mins then parked it up , yesterday when i had it out to clean it up a bit i started it up again and same thing agian but when i put it back into netural and pushed it back into first no nosie then was this because the bike had time to warm up ,when i spoke to the shop he said that all pro gasgas do this because they only have 4 gears the move up and down the shaft alot to make up the 6 speed box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekr1s Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Cant really help you with this one, but can say that myself and my friend bought our 05 280's brand new and theres never been any crunching going into gear! Maybe the clutch isn't set up quite right. Change the box oil to start with and take it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerme Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 took the bike again today its seam s to be clunky now in every gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postmanpat Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Take it back! Me and my mate both have '04 250 Pro's and ours don't crunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Hello millerme, The PRO usually snicks into first gear with a very slight clunk from cold, certainly no crunching. Does the bike lurch forward a little when doing this? If so, then this is a sign of the clutch dragging due to a problem with the hydraulic actuation system or the plates not properly releasing which may just be due to incorrect gearbox oil. Your dealer should be aware that this gearbox should have approx 500ml of a 10 weight mineral oil, or an ATF rated to Dexron III. I would definately take it back to the dealer until you are fully satisfied with it. There is a definate clunk when changing from 4th to 5th, this is normal for the PRO. The PRO does have only 4 pairs of gears but there is little axial movement inbetween the gears when engaging from one gear to the next. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerme Posted February 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 the shop filled the gearbox with bel-ray gear box oil 75w is this ok to use in a pro 2005 280cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Hi millerme, No! Earlier PRO models did not take too kindly to any synthetic oil as this created problems with the clutch fibres (the fibres would swell and create a heavy feeling clutch action - same thing as for getting water in the gearbox oil). Also the 75W viscosity rating is way too high and would cause the clutch to drag - not disengage fully. Ask the shop to drain the oil, re-fill with 500ml 10 weight mineral, or an ATF rated to Dexron III which is probably far easier to get a hold of. After your first trial, change the oil again to flush out more of the residual synthetic oil. Change the oil when the motor is warm as any "foreign" particles are held in suspension, when cold, the particles tend to settle out. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Hi millerme,No! Earlier PRO models did not take too kindly to any synthetic oil as this created problems with the clutch fibres (the fibres would swell and create a heavy feeling clutch action - same thing as for getting water in the gearbox oil). Also the 75W viscosity rating is way too high and would cause the clutch to drag - not disengage fully. Ask the shop to drain the oil, re-fill with 500ml 10 weight mineral, or an ATF rated to Dexron III which is probably far easier to get a hold of. After your first trial, change the oil again to flush out more of the residual synthetic oil. Change the oil when the motor is warm as any "foreign" particles are held in suspension, when cold, the particles tend to settle out. Bye, PeterB. I agree with Peter. The "normal" 75W oil is too thick and will generally cause a lot of drag. I did test a "75W" trans oil, Maxima 75W "clutch saver" oil, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out how they got a 75 rating on such a light oil. It did work o.k., but still was a little too "thick" and caused some drag. The Dexron would be roughly equal to a 7.5 weight oil (also works great in forks in the Summer if you need a little more damping action). Make sure you have a little slack where the lever adjustment screw meets the master cylinder plunger that goes through the rubber boot. A lot of riders used to cables mistakenly think that screwing it in more will give more throw/travel to the piston but it will have the opposite effect. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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