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A Few Questions About My New To Me Gas Gas


steve1979
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Hi guy's, as the title says i've just bought a 2003 250 txt pro. I'm pretty chuffed, i used to have a 92 fantic which was fun. Typicall though, got the new bike and now the snow lol.

any way i need to iron out a few kinks.

1) She is kinda difficult to start and also once warm. could i need to clean anything in particullar to make it start better i'e electrical connections.

2) The clutch drags a little i'e wont disengage fully making it difficult to get neutral without her creeping forward or stalling then hard to start again. can this be adjusted at the lever?

3) There is a slight rumble from the clutch when the lever is out but goes when you pull the lever in again is that normal?

I bought her from a trials dealer who stated on their website all bikes are serviced and ready to trial so hope fully the rumble aint to serious or they would have noticed surley?

I'm looking forward to getting her out and having some fun. Please dont bamboozle me with complicated answers lol. just looking for tips to better starting etc

i'll look forward to your replys and thanks in advance

Cheers Steve

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as far as number 3 goes the rumble is normal nothing to worry about at all. as far as the first two there are lads on here who will be able to help you far better than i can especially JSE the guy knows everything gas gas and is always very helpful and take a look at this it might help.

gas gas info

enjoy the bike mate. Paul

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Hi Paul, thats brilliant thats just the sort of answers i'm after thanks for that VERY much appreciated. I think i'll try a small adjustment on the lever but if that doesn't help i'll look into the reverse bleeding on the clutch slave then seals on the clutch slave seals and so on as needed as the vids on you tube described. That videos are brilliant very easy to follow.

Thanks again i'm feeling reasured about the slight rumble.

Cheers Steve

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Hi Steve,

To help cold starting, I always lay the bike right over to the left, this floods the carb. The clutch rumble is normal and disappears when the clutch is disengaged. Your bike should have a DellOrto PHBL26, the starter jet is a number 60 (0.6mm diameter), you can drill this out to 1.0mm to help cold start if you don't want to lay the bike over.

Check the gearbox oil first, should be 500ml of a 10 weight mineral or an ATF rated to Dexron III.

If the clutch is still dragging, then the problem may be the master or slave cylinder kits that need replacing.

Bye, PeterB.

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Hi Peter, thanks for the tip i'll definetly try leaning the bike over next time for bit before i try starting her. What i worry about is my previous bike the fantic had the dellorto carb which was worn out so i replaced it with an oko from classictrials which made a huge difference as i was told the dellorto's wore out quite quickly, so i was thinking about some time later in the future perhaps getting a kehin carb to replace the dellorto.

Thanks for that Peter.

Cheers Steve

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Hi Peter, thanks for the tip i'll definetly try leaning the bike over next time for bit before i try starting her. What i worry about is my previous bike the fantic had the dellorto carb which was worn out so i replaced it with an oko from classictrials which made a huge difference as i was told the dellorto's wore out quite quickly, so i was thinking about some time later in the future perhaps getting a kehin carb to replace the dellorto.

Thanks for that Peter.

Cheers Steve

Steve, your Fantic had a PHBH carb, also known as the "large body Dellorto" and the oval-slide "H" carbs were troublesome to tune, at best. The Dellorto you have now is the PHBL and is quite different. The oval-bore PHBH was used by GasGas on the 96' JTR370, which I had, and promptly chucked in favor of a modified KX80 carb (a PWK28 with the adjustment screws moved over to the other side). My friend with a Fantic was very happy to get an essentially new PHBH carb for free.....

Peter's advice on the starter jet is sound. I also had a #60 (some come with a #70) and drilled mine out .031", roughly equal to a #80 and my Pro starts second kick every time. Just be sure to NOT open the throttle when kicking it over. It should start and immediately go to a slightly high idle to warm up and you can usually flip the "choke" lever down shortly after.

It's normal for the Pro's to have a little clutch drag and it does make finding neutral difficult, if not impossible sometimes. It does, however, keep the driveline "loaded" and precise engagement in tight full-lock corners will be smoother than just about any other bike that totally releases. If you have problem stalling the engine at low RPMs in a section, adjust the idle speed with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in where you normally would (usually with one finger and back against the knuckles), not in neutral.

Jon

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Hi Jon,

So the Dellorto on my bike is a much improved carb compared to the older PHBH and i would probably be wasting my money if i were to replace it with a kehin,

have i got that right? if so thankyou very much for sharing that advice with me as this will save me a couple of hundred pounds on a carb that i don't really need.

Speaking of drilling out starter jets, is it possible to buy the larger bore jet and just swap?

Thanks again for your prompt replys,

Cheers Steve

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Hi Jon,

So the Dellorto on my bike is a much improved carb compared to the older PHBH and i would probably be wasting my money if i were to replace it with a kehin,

have i got that right? if so thankyou very much for sharing that advice with me as this will save me a couple of hundred pounds on a carb that i don't really need.

Speaking of drilling out starter jets, is it possible to buy the larger bore jet and just swap?

Thanks again for your prompt replys,

Cheers Steve

The one on your bike should work fine, especially if you are just starting out with one of the newer, lightweight bikes. The PWK is a good carb if you are looking for a little more performance and works very well at high-altitude for riders like the ones in Colorado here, but you will probably find the PHBL to your liking. Once set, it's pretty bulletproof and is easy to adjust for changing conditions. With my talent level, I'll probably need the extra power of a PWK28 on my bike as soon as I learn to walk on water without sinking.....

You can swap out starter jets if you can get a larger one from your dealer but most of us drill the old ones out as they are just used for starting and do not need to be lathe drilled for precise accuracy. When you take the floatbowl off, you'll see the starter jet at the end of the brass tower with the black o-ring towards the end. Remember, the trick is to NOT open the throttle when starting cold (with the "choke" lever pulled up, of course).

For some, as yet, unknown reason, I often find the Pros tend to act "cold blooded" and if my bike sits for any length of time, like when I'm walking a long section on a cold day, if it does not start first kick, I'll need the choke on (it's not actually a "choke", but an enrichening device and when you hold the throttle open, it will defeat it's operation) to get it to quickly fire up.

Jon

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Thanks for that Jon i'm going to look into the larger start jet.

I was wondering " i may be wrong" i think i read somewhere that people have a hot start mod done to there bikes. What does that entail.

sorry for all the questions

Steve

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Thanks for that Jon i'm going to look into the larger start jet.

I was wondering " i may be wrong" i think i read somewhere that people have a hot start mod done to there bikes. What does that entail.

sorry for all the questions

Steve

No problem with any questions, ever.

The "hot start button" is a device used mainly in four-stroke carbureted engines used for off-road. It is a special passageway that allows cooler ambient air into the manifold system to aid re-starting a hot engine after stalling (the four-strokes make and retain a high degree of "body temperature" compared to two-strokes). You have a two-stroke engine which does not incorporate a hot start device, so no need to worry.

Jon

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