tombo46 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 My gearbox oil has gone a little milky, changed it and the new stuff has too so it looks like I need a new water pump seal, does anyone know how hard this job is? is it just a simple, drain the water, take the pump off, replace seal, refit and fill back up with water and antifreeze? All the best Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Had the same problem on my Pro 05 300. Run the bike for a few minutes so the oil warms up and then drop the oil. That way you can be sure you are getting rid of all the contaminated oil. Then remove the water pump. Drain the coolant by removing the brass screw in the front of the water pump. When you look inside the pump you will see a rotating shaft and seal. More than likely the shaft has worn the seal as the blades of the pump turn the shaft so when you buy a new seal make sure you get a new shaft with it (note its a left handed thread). To remove the seal put the pump casing on a solid flat surface and find a metal rod (or something like that) to put through hole where the brass screw was. Lightly hit with the hammer this apply pressure to the blades inside will eventually release the seal. When fitting the new one best to use an old bit of tubing to hammer it back into the pump housing but not too hard or you will push the blades to close to the inside of the housing and the blades my catch when spinning. If you do dont worry they will soon wear after running few a few hours. Then fill her back up with oil and slowly fill up with coolant to avoid an airblock. If you are ordering the bits to ride this weekend it might be worth ordering new hose clips, they are only a few pence but easing mangled whilst putting them on. Just another word of advice - the contamination of oil seemed to swell the clutch plates making mine really stiff, ended up getting a new clutch assembly. Fingers crossed you wont have to. Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo46 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Cheers matey =] Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Someone here posted these video's awhile bac and you can also find them on the trialspartsusa website. See about 5 minutes in on vid#5. http://d-mis-web.ana.bris.ac.uk/personal/H...f/media/gasgas/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo46 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I completely forgot about these video's! had them on my PC the whole time hehe. Thanks alot! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo46 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Had the same problem on my Pro 05 300.Run the bike for a few minutes so the oil warms up and then drop the oil. That way you can be sure you are getting rid of all the contaminated oil. Then remove the water pump. Drain the coolant by removing the brass screw in the front of the water pump. When you look inside the pump you will see a rotating shaft and seal. More than likely the shaft has worn the seal as the blades of the pump turn the shaft so when you buy a new seal make sure you get a new shaft with it (note its a left handed thread). To remove the seal put the pump casing on a solid flat surface and find a metal rod (or something like that) to put through hole where the brass screw was. Lightly hit with the hammer this apply pressure to the blades inside will eventually release the seal. When fitting the new one best to use an old bit of tubing to hammer it back into the pump housing but not too hard or you will push the blades to close to the inside of the housing and the blades my catch when spinning. If you do dont worry they will soon wear after running few a few hours. Then fill her back up with oil and slowly fill up with coolant to avoid an airblock. If you are ordering the bits to ride this weekend it might be worth ordering new hose clips, they are only a few pence but easing mangled whilst putting them on. Just another word of advice - the contamination of oil seemed to swell the clutch plates making mine really stiff, ended up getting a new clutch assembly. Fingers crossed you wont have to. Cheers Martin Hope you're right about the shaft! it was about 25 quid! Ive ordered the seal, shaft, new o-ring just in case and 4 clips, never fitted the clips before though, is there a trick to it? Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Hello guys, I'm not in favour of tapping the shaft to knock the impellor to get the seal out, rather, carefully remove the seal from the inside but not with a screwdriver. When removing the outer brass looking bolt, be aware that there is a nylon washer to seal this bolt and then between this bolt and the shaft, there is a small sst shim that is easy to lose. There were several revisions of shaft material and surface finish over the years, but with a pump running at crank speed, it is difficult to prevent shaft and seal wear. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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