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Clake Fitted To 4rt


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Nigel , I'm not sure the point of this topic is to convince you to purchase this device, It is obviously to point out that the clake serves a purpose and could benefit some riders. Your arrogant reply's are not useful so I suggest if you have not tried a clake then you are not in a position to give a balanced and educated opinion about this product. It's unfortunate that topic's set in this forum have to put up with such small mindedness from a certain few.

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Nigel , I'm not sure the point of this topic is to convince you to purchase this device, It is obviously to point out that the clake serves a purpose and could benefit some riders. Your arrogant reply's are not useful so I suggest if you have not tried a clake then you are not in a position to give a balanced and educated opinion about this product. It's unfortunate that topic's set in this forum have to put up with such small mindedness from a certain few.

Since when has pointing out the limitations or disadvantages of a device been arrogant. I had a 4rt and the last thing I would consider doing to it would be taking away the foot brake pedal. As i reasonably put above I have no doubt that it works well but its a bit strange that you seem unable to even consider that there is a fundamental flaw in the actual operation of the thing in trials. I am assuming that it is a crossover product and not designed initially for trials? You don't have to eat ****e to know it tastes bad, ditto this product.

Best thing is you send me one and I'll try it out in a proper trial and practice and give everyone an honest independant view, and trust me I will be fair.

It's unfortunate that topic's set in this forum have to put up with such personal attacks from a certain few, rather than concentrating on whether this product is good for a few or not.

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Others also have doubts, its not just me.

Really clever, looks a bit clumsy at the moment but I sure they are working on that. Could be particularly useful for riders with ankle injuries and restricted movement.

I can't see how this works in the world of Trials?

One lever doing two jobs? SO when the lever is pulled half way this is your clutch, Pull it a little more this is your rear brake?

SO when you need to slip the clutch and use your rear brake at the same time how do you do this?

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Nigel, you can't possibly make an informed comment about the positives and negatives without actually riding a bike with a clake fitted. Your comments seem to assume riders that have ridden a bike with a clake fitted can not possibly find benefit from using such a product. It dosn't matter which country the rider is from, last time I checked the trials community is made up of riders from all corners of the globe, you do not have to be from england to have an understanding of moto trials and how a rider can benefit from riding a trials bike with a certain product. Nigel Dabster is not always correct in his comments and Nigel Dabster is way out of line with his speculation of other riders abilities to review and recommend a product to their fellow trials community. It maybe the case that you sit back and think before making comments on public forums in the fashion that you have previously displayed.

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Nigel, you can't possibly make an informed comment about the positives and negatives without actually riding a bike with a clake fitted. Your comments seem to assume riders that have ridden a bike with a clake fitted can not possibly find benefit from using such a product. It dosn't matter which country the rider is from, last time I checked the trials community is made up of riders from all corners of the globe, you do not have to be from england to have an understanding of moto trials and how a rider can benefit from riding a trials bike with a certain product. Nigel Dabster is not always correct in his comments and Nigel Dabster is way out of line with his speculation of other riders abilities to review and recommend a product to their fellow trials community. It maybe the case that you sit back and think before making comments on public forums in the fashion that you have previously displayed.

Easy tiger, either you have a commercial interest in this thing or you have lost your sense of objectivity. Why is it such a big deal to you?

I can and am allowed to make a judgement based on how I ride, at no stage has anyone answered the points both I and others have made about how our riding technique could possibly be accommodated with this thing.

Instead of attacking what I have allegedly insinuated perhaps you could answer the points raised as part of a reasonable discussion.

I am not always right, or wrong, but there are two sides to everything and you seem unable to accept this. I repeat, send me one and lets give it a bash. What are you afraid of?

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What happens when you're at the top of a big hill? I assume there's a point where you're clutch in & not braking, what's normally a three way balancing act of throttle, clutch & brake doesn't seem to work.

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What happens when you're at the top of a big hill? I assume there's a point where you're clutch in & not braking, what's normally a three way balancing act of throttle, clutch & brake doesn't seem to work.

HI Perce,

And thanks for a question rather than a statement ! Hard to answer specifically as it depends on the hill and what you want to do at the top, as I am sure you appreciate.

Obviously on a long fast hill with nothing much at the top you would be just throttling off conventionally. Where you want to be slower than clutch fully engaged would allow at the top, simply pulling the lever gently in starts the clutch slipping so that you can slow down without stalling or coming to a complete standstill,slightly more pull on the lever clears more clutch and starts to drag the rear brake, depending on how much you pull the lever in you can creep forward at anything between a snails pace or normal speed with the clutch fully engaged. You really don't think about it, you just pull marginally harder to go slower and release marginally to go faster, up or down hill and doesn't matter where your right foot is.

If you really want to pull the clutch and coast then you can slide you finger inboard a few mm's to allow full clutch release without braking (although you will still get rear brake if you pull the lever even further in after the clutch is released)

So far I have never felt the need to use the unit in this way.

After this weekends ride for me the biggest improvement in my riding is being slower and in control immediately at the top of fairly short but steep rock climbs because I now have much better control of the clutch/brake function that you refer to.

The only disadvantage I have found with the unit so far was getting too close to some bush and a tough vine catching the lever and pulling the brake on same as it would with the front brake lever!!!

If the above doesn't make sense drop me an email.

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I was actually wondering about going downhill. Most Trials round here at some point involve steep hillside descents on the route round. A friend of mine suggested that the clake idea wasn't new & said that tractors had been fitted with a similar device, going down hill they'd been bloody frightening. So I was wondering how much fun it'd be going down the Pap of Glencoe with one of these things bearing in mind I got cramp in my right leg going down there through constant stamping on the brake. I'd also suggest that going down hills like that I'd not actually use the clutch that much & generally stop just short of stalling then release the rear brake, I always thought the gear box was a brake.

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I was actually wondering about going downhill. Most Trials round here at some point involve steep hillside descents on the route round. A friend of mine suggested that the clake idea wasn't new & said that tractors had been fitted with a similar device, going down hill they'd been bloody frightening. So I was wondering how much fun it'd be going down the Pap of Glencoe with one of these things bearing in mind I got cramp in my right leg going down there through constant stamping on the brake. I'd also suggest that going down hills like that I'd not actually use the clutch that much & generally stop just short of stalling then release the rear brake, I always thought the gear box was a brake.

I don't know yet Perce as I've only had the CLAKE for a couple of trials and we haven't had any long downhill runs between sections.

For me in the past I have tended to ride downhill sections with the clutch engaged and using the rear brake when I could whereas most of our better riders follow the pull the clutch in and use the rear brake.

I am finding much better control on steep downhill sections with the Clake and I think it is due to, having much more feel on the rear brake on the lever, having my foot where I want it on the peg, the ability to have a dab or use right foot for balance without loosing braking and having the clutch still dragging and therefore some engine braking when the brake is being applied but without the risk of stalling. If you pull the brake on a bit harder to lock up in that position you have less clutch drag.

On my RT the rear brake action is very light and has not caused me any fatigue in the hand, but as I say haven't had a two mile down hill creek to negotiate.

Can't comment on the tractor, but did ride a 350 Matchless once in my youth that seemed very close to a tractor at the time !!!

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In the intrests of fairness I felt compelled to give it a go.

My first effort I feel has a few advantages over the clake insomuch as it gives complete indepaendant use of the brake and clutch, and if you've got really long fingers then theoretically use the middle finger for one and forefinger for the other.post-7-1236438168.jpg

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My second effort is an improvement on this and gives easy access to both.

Also I am investigating the use of a diverter type thingy with non return valves to enable the brake to be operated from above or below!

This i can only state will be a real advantage over the clake and I'm going to call it the brutch.

post-7-1236438597.jpg

Edited by Nigel Dabster
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