thedktor Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Here is the nut in question on the 7mm allen key (a brake calliper tool) Slightly clearer pic below - the bottom RH hole still has the drilled out nut down in its depths. The top right is the nut I got out showing how deep it sits - about an inch down. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks for the pics! Do you use anti-seize compound on the hex nut threads when reassembling and torquing nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Thanks for the pics!Do you use anti-seize compound on the hex nut threads when reassembling and torquing nuts? Yes! Some might say you shouldn't as you can over-torque the nuts, but in this situation I think its needed. Just dont go too mad with the wrench. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 Well, after 5 days of soaking in penetrating oil and tapping sharply [ x 4 days ] with a brass drift, the cyl hex nuts came loose without any trouble at all........ Thanks for the great tips guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagecota Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 And thus you have learned the lesson of "patience". Well done, Grasshopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkieb Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 On 2/18/2009 at 3:33 AM, spokerider said: I took the cyl head off the engine today. There is some dusty rust / crud in the 7mm cyl nut recesses, so there's penetrating oil soaking things loose right now. The barrel will come off in a few days...... I bought a long 7mm alllen socket that'll work fine for the job once I grind the ball end off of the business end of it. I see that a previous owner has had the engine rebuilt once before, as there is a .025mm oversize piston in place. I can see the cross-hatch pattern in the cyl bore. The cross hatch is more visible on the sides of the bore and less obvious in the fore / aft cyl wall. No scoring or really shiney areas either. No carbon build up, just some thin oliy soot. Top ring looks fine from the inspection so far...... I can't make the piston move fore / aft in the cyl with pressure applied by two fingers on the piston crown, as in piston slap, but I CAN rotate the piston as if trying to spin it in the bore, with the same pressure from two finger tips. This holds true with the piston at all stroke positions that I tried. It moves about 1mm-1.5mm as a guess. Perhaps there's wear on the small end needle bearing? Big end bearing?? Is this movement abnormal? Thanks. My piston rotates like this around 1 to 2 mm , is this normal. I cant find any tolerance specifications for the crank/rod/piston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfd Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Folks, I have been unable to find torque numbers for the 11mm head bolts that secure the case halves as well as the main seal carrier bolts. I've got the partial copy of the 247 service manual thats been floating around, and the parts schematic but cannot find these numbers. Anyone having these or a link would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry s. k. Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi , spokerider can you post picture of 348 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barnesy Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 Recently put my 348 back together and was looking for the same figures, there is no service manual for the 348 more a parts manual and that just has the torque figures for the flywheel, primary drive and drive sprocket. There is also a clymer manual (which deals with engines up to 1975) but that doesnt cover the figures either. The case bolts should'nt be too tight as there are (or should be) rubber washers that stop the oil seeping between gearbox and clutch. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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