g520 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Hi. I am new to trials, thanks for this great site. Yesterday I bought myself a 2006 scorpa SY 250. I rode it for the first time today (just up and down the road for a few minutes). The clutch would not release!! The bike has not been used much for the last year. I suspect the clutch plates are sticking together, just like in some of the older Yamaha XT enduro models when they had not been used for a few weeks. I tried putting the bike in 3-rd gear and giving it gas but that did not help. What can I do? Should I simply tear into the clutch and manually free up the disks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 As in, fully disengaged no matter on lever posistion? or fully engaged. If fully disengaged Try changing the oil, leaving her to warm up properly and then go up to 5th gear and then back down through the box quickly with the clutch held fully in, should release quickly enough... Also, try fiddling with the lever adjuster, is your push rod going right into the master cylinder? is there a push rod? I've lost many of these over time, could of dropped out when dropped or knocked in the shed! If fully engaged adjust your levers first, like, your not going anywhere Adjust your levers, this can be done by using the wee nut on the lever blade as said above. Adjust that fully out, if still nothing try new oil! Listen out for noises whilst engines running, could it be transmission? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dond Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Yamaha clutch plates like to stick together when they are parked for awhile. Try driving back and forth holding the clutch lever in and going on and off the throttle. Best done in 3rd or 4th gear. If that does not do it you may need to get the clutch cover off and physically pry the plates apart. I recomend Silkolene Light Gear oil to reduce theproblem in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g520 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Guys, thanks for the answers. Sorry not to be clear on this, the clutch was fully disengaged. As I said I think the clutch plates are binding together since the arm on the engine that operates the clutch push rod is moving when I pull in the clutch lever. Yesterday I put the bike in 3rd gear and went on and off the throttle holding the clutch lever in. That did not help, but I only tried for a few minutes and the engine was not fully warmed up. I will try what you advice before opening up the clutch. Is it common, having to take the clutch apart and physically pry the plates apart on the SY250? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Some on T C will say this isn't common, but there is a post like yours every few days. First I would start engine, push and engage any gear, drive about with clutch in, as it warms up , use back brake. Be very surprised if it doesn't free off eventually, particularly if is was working before. When fully warm, a change of oils is no bad thing on any bike you dont know the history of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) Use top gear not third and let it warm up. The higher the gear, the greater torque on the clutch. Another thing that will help with communication - if a clutch is engaged, it is transmitting torque. If it is disengaged, the plates are slipping past each other. Edited February 18, 2009 by feetupfun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwilson Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Scorpa SY250s have a slave cylinder which operates the clutch linkage. Some times the linkage can bend and the master cylinder will not let the fluid back into the reservoir. Take off the cover and make sure that when you operate the lever full stroke can see the vent hole become uncovered. Press on the clutch linkage lever into the slave cylinder and see if fluid comes into the master cylinder reservior. You may have to take the nut off of the clutch lever adjustment screw and place it on the opposite side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 If I remember rightly some Sy's were prone to a partial failure of the weld on that(pictured) actuator arm where the shaft disappears into the crankcase? Could this cause the symptoms you describe?..maybe a Scorpa pro' could chime in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montman Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 If I remember rightly some Sy's were prone to a partial failure of the weld on that(pictured) actuator arm where the shaft disappears into the crankcase? Could this cause the symptoms you describe?..maybe a Scorpa pro' could chime in here. YES - But normally slowly loose adjustment as weld breaks. G520 I suggest you have a close look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g520 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Thanks guys, I will check the clutch linkage lever and the clutch master cylinder. The first thing I did was to check the movement of the clutch linkage lever. All looked fine, but then again this bike is new to me. I don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g520 Posted February 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 The clutch is working fine now. I went for a ride today, trying all the tricks described above and after a few km.(quite a few actually) the clutch broke loose. The clutch worked fine the rest of the ride. I could not find a Silkolene dealer nearby so I went with IPone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 The clutch is working fine now. I went for a ride today, trying all the tricks described above and after a few km.(quite a few actually) the clutch broke loose. The clutch worked fine the rest of the ride.I could not find a Silkolene dealer nearby so I went with IPone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfwilson Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 The clutch is working fine now. I went for a ride today, trying all the tricks described above and after a few km.(quite a few actually) the clutch broke loose. The clutch worked fine the rest of the ride.I could not find a Silkolene dealer nearby so I went with IPone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masso Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I use 600ml of Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF. It works very well. The clutch has very fine control and doesn't stick even in freezing weather. I've tried many oils!...theonly one I'd recommend, is MAXIM 75 wt heres my start-up rootine........engine dead...shift up to 6th gear...lever inroll bike back and forth, this will break plates loose very fast then I gotta get that *&^%%##@.....choke lever thingy up ....jeeez I start engine let it warm up ...push the bike, soes its moving,then put in gear.......in a few minutes the plates will separate..then your good for rest of day next modification is to install a new set of metal plates, that I've ''dimpled'' with a center punch ....this makes plates like golf balls ...these little indentations will retain oil..making plates not stick together, you can do same thing with roughing plates with sandpaper will some aftermaketers please make some new plates for these bikes!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g520 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Thanks Masso. Please let us know how the Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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