borus Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) i've redone (greased) all the connections and grounds but my spark is still intermittent. plus: pulled flywheel and cleaned (it didn't need it) new plug removed kill sw does anyone have the "correct ohm specs" for the stator? while i have spark my readings at the stator cdi plug are: all reading taken on normal resistance setting (diode setting not used for these) red- 41 ohms green - 450 ohms black,blue,brown - infi. yellow - 1 ohm white - 0 ohms coil lead - 1083 ohms when i don't have spark the black/white kill switch wire from the cdi has voltage but the orange coil wire has no voltage? also, can i assume that if i have a problem with my stator my red / green readings would be incorrect? cheers Edited March 10, 2009 by borus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Uh,oh! To be honest, I don't even know where the schematic is on these things! Might help if I knew what went to what! Helps make logical sense of it anyway. As mine is not dual map, do not know how similar they are, but I think there is just one added wire that grounds to change the map. I can maybe take some readings off mine this week, if it will help. My good meter is at work. MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Just replaced 2nd stator in my jarvis & these are readings for new stator-think cdi is where dual map differs green/red 555 ohms green/white 641 ohms red/white 86 ohms yellow/blue 1006 ohms yellow/brown 1071 ohms yellow/black 1070 ohms Can't remember what colour other wire is but will give no reading to others Importer here supplied me these readings to confirm before got stator from him, mine hated roadwork this time & would die for 1/4hr sometimes at end of long transition. Not good Hope this helps Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Yup, same symptoms of a Sherco I used to own;Spark when cold but when the bike got warm you couldn't get a spark for 10/20 mins in which time you had half stripped the bike looking for the fault,infuriating Hint, never turn the engine off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 my bike would loose spark after a 5 th gear hard run, a few minutes later it would come back, then the other day after 5 minutes of puttering around the driveway and in the past week it would be running, then next morning without touching it it wouldn't have spark, then later it would come back. the only variable was temperature?? when i don't have spark my question is why would i have spark on the kill sw black/wire but no spark on the orange coil wire coming from the cdi? as you can guess i don't want the problem to be an expensive cdi. both of these wires come out of the cdi together. i'll take the exact readings of tony27 on my 2 map system to compare. i originally did all my readings to ground which doesn't seem to show much - i went by reading methods from a gasgas article i found, a least it gives me something to go by. be nice to have a trouble shooting a-z article on sherco electrical systems, i can't even find a 2 map wiring diagram. cheers bob trialsontario.ca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Found this in Wayne's Help on the Sherco site. Not sure if it is dual map or not. Probably not. hope it helps, but if not hope I didn't waste too much of your time. Wiring Diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Found this in Wayne's Help on the Sherco site.Not sure if it is dual map or not. Probably not. hope it helps, but if not hope I didn't waste too much of your time. Wiring Diagram thanks, i did check that one out but i couldn't make sense of it, i don't think it's close to mine. do you ride in windsor?, i was there last year in aug, i plan to go in aug this year. cheers bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Yep, I usually ride in Windsor with MOTA. I am the goofball riding in black shorts, but I must admit I got the idea from a Canadian member of MOTA. I won't be riding any Windsor events this year, I have no passport to get back into the States. Crossing into Canada has never been a problem but the U.S. is getting much more strict. I have this strange attachment to sleeping in my own bed. So getting back into the States is a must. I think I remember seeing your bike there. pretty sure it was the only Caby there. Funny how we remember bikes and not the riders. I checked out the trials Ontario website thought it was really nice to see the MOTA events in Windsor listed in the schedule. Should help boost attendance. The new passport requirement may cut down on how many come over from the States, we shall see. Edited March 10, 2009 by ZIPPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 here we go: according to bradfords testing page: click me quote: But the Sherco triggers are different,set your test meter on the diode setting put the black test lead to earth with the red lead test between blue brown black you should get a reading something like 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 It just seems to me that the basic problem in ohming these things out is the fact that you are not neccessarily able to catch them in a "failed state" due to either to the internal or external operational temps of the components. In Borus case, it sounds as though there is a failure of the charge or trigger coil under operational load and developed heat. By the the time you can test them, things resort to normal readings! Crap! And with no schemata, the fact that Borus still has voltage at one point(charge) does not mean that he is recieving it at the other(trigger). I think the trigger will be a low voltage signal to the controller. I know from grabbing things that the kill switches can have some high voltages on the primary side of the coil, possibly 60-70 volt range. They can really shock you! I am just rambling thoughts here as i have no operational referance to go by, yet logic still dictates (hopefully), but really, some ocilliscope readings would be helpful under operation, and may reveal something. Not that I haveth stuff to fix it anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 I have found some specs, yet cannot copy and paste them. Seems everything on the stator side of the wires to the ignition unit(disconnected) refences to the white wire(common). So tester (- neg) to white, the rest: Supply coils Green 620+-60 ohms Red 82+- 10 ohms Hall effect coils Brown 3M-7M ohms Black 3M-7M ohms Blue OL or more than 10M ohms Yellow 0.9+- 0.2 ohms (this drives fan and lights) These are ambient temp specs! The newer ones with dual map and eight pole system are only slightly different with the supply coils measuring: Green 550+- 60 ohms Red 65+-10 ohms I have no specs on the control units at this time, but would suspect they would also ref off the white wire as a base! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted March 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 thanks copemech that certainly comfirms my research also. my key reading are: w-r - 41 w-g - 412 i'll have to get another meter on it to check against my cheap meter but if these readings are correct looks like i might have a stator issue. i still have spark and runs fine since removing my kill/light sw. but i think another failure is lurking. cheers bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 thanks copemechthat certainly comfirms my research also. my key reading are: w-r - 41 w-g - 412 i'll have to get another meter on it to check against my cheap meter but if these readings are correct looks like i might have a stator issue. i still have spark and runs fine since removing my kill/light sw. but i think another failure is lurking. cheers bob Even at 41 and 412, as compared to the 82 and 620 specs, the numbers only sound scuwed, possibly by the meter! Doubt both coils would fail at the same time. If you have had luck with the bar switch off, I would test it in action again. I hate those things! To be honest, I would do away with the map switch, myself. Cannot tell much difference anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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