spokerider Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) Well I have the crank seals on hand, and since I don't know when they may have been replaced last, I figure I may as well change them out. I'm waiting on getting the cylinder back from the machine shop sporting a new overbore piston anyway...... Since I've never replaced crank seals before I have a few questions please...... Is the counter flywheel [ on the clutch side ] nut reverse thread? ie; turn clockwise to loosen? Does the counter flywheel require a tool similar to the flywheel puller to remove? Next, remove the clutch basket? Now, pull the primary gear with a puller.......then remove the crank bearing cap and gasket........ OK, how does the seal come out, pry out with screwdriver? Now, ditto for the flywheel / stator side....... Lastly, what torque spec for the counter flywheel nut? What torque spec for the clutch basket nut? Thanks a heap! Edited March 18, 2009 by Spokerider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave dix Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 Its r/h thread, i just knock the weight off , flatten locking tab on clutch nut (r/h thread ) and be careful not to loose the three rollers. Now have fun with the primary sprocket. The mag flywheel nut is l/h thread and remove the wheel with a puller. Both seals pry out but be careful as the housings are magnesium and very brittle Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 Thanks for the info Dave, I'm going to go to the shop now and play.......perhaps mutter a few choice words, lol. I bought a 3 claw / 5 ton puller, so I'll see if it fits the primary gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Well, just finnished fooling with the bike for the last two hours, and have come to a "hiccup". I've removed the counter flywheel and am in the process of removing the clutch assembly. I can't figure out how the clutch basket comes off of the shaft. I have taken the clutch disc assembly out by removing the three wire clips, and have removed the bushing [ below the disc plates ] and three roll bearings that fit into the bushing. Now I'm stuck...... Can't see any retaining clip holding the basket in, tried gentle tapping with wood and hammer, no go. I know better than to start beating on it....... What's the key to removing it? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belldane Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hi There is no clip holding that basket in. It is a pressed fit into the shaft and you will need another puller big enough to remove it. If you don't have a puller I would suggest that you take the engine to a bike shop as it is probably going to be cheaper than buying the part to remove it. While you are there get them to remove the primary gear as well. If you think getting the basket off is hard, wait until you try to remove the primary gear!!!! I wish you luck my friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I have removed two clutches recently - try holding the clutch and tapping (carefully) the shaft. The shock will gently ease it off bit by bit. Or it did mine anyway! Otherwise, yes, a big puller. You've seen the thread for the primary gear removal?? !!! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave dix Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 The basket is on a straight shaft so a tap should do it but you must let it twist away from the primary gear as they mesh together and re-fit the two together Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the replies fellas. Now I KNOW how it is suppossed to come off, so I'll proceed further with my efforts. The 5 ton 3-jaw puller ought to work to get it loosened enought to slip off. That was one of my concerns, that a puller pulls straight out and the basket gear / primary gear requires it to twist as it comes from the shaft........ Ah yes, the dreaded primary gear........ perhaps I'll be one of the "lucky ones" where the gear just slides off like butter! lol. Edited March 19, 2009 by Spokerider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_weedon Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Ah yes, the dreaded primary gear........ perhaps I'll be one of the "lucky ones" where the gear just slides off like butter! lol. Don't count on it! It's not a Bultaco! Wayne.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Well the blasted primary gear is off, and yes, it was a stuggle......... The 3 jaw puller had to be modifyied to fit the back of the gear as there's not much clearance back there. After 2 hrs of trying that puller I gave up using it. The jaws kept opening up as I increased torque, no matter what method I tried to use to secure them closed. Loaded the bike into the truck and off to my local bike repair / dealer. He's had lots of experince with the ol' Cotas from years before, and knew the stubborness of the gear well. We used a "split bearing puller", impact driver, and a propane torch. A few minutes later.......POW and the bugger was off. It literally launched itself, and the puller, across the room 4 feet when it let loose! Cripes, sure hope I don't have to do that again....... The split bearing puller was surely the correct choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Well done! I used a 3 leg puller with a chain clamped round it, but it is ovbious that they flex somewhat and I guess the split bearing pullers don't... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) Well done!I used a 3 leg puller with a chain clamped round it, but it is ovbious that they flex somewhat and I guess the split bearing pullers don't... Steve To illustrate what they are talking about (at least what I think they mean) to those that may not be sure what the tools are, here's a photo of the three-jaw gear puller on the left and a bearing separater on the right. As you mentioned, the bearing separater will not flex. Bolts are attached to it and a screw-type rod presses on the center of the shaft the bearing is on to pull the bearing out. Often you won't need the attachments for the bearing tool as it wedges behind the bearing and pushes the bearing out when the side bolts are tightened. Jon Forgot to mention, the three-jaw gear puller will flex less if all the bolts holding it together are tightened up after it is on the bearing/gear, otherwise the tool can be pretty floppy to work with. Afterwards loosen all the bolts to release the bearing/gear. Edited March 20, 2009 by JSE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 Jon, Thanks for posting the pics. Say, would you like to trade that split bearing puller for another 3 jaw?? lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted March 21, 2009 Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 Jon, Thanks for posting the pics. Say, would you like to trade that split bearing puller for another 3 jaw?? lol! Geez, I got to admit, that's a wonderful offer, but that's my favorite puller (o.k., maybe my favorite extra-large one) and I've got somewhat attached to it....... Very handy tool, if you have clearance to get it on the bearing, it WILL take it off. That one's a large size but it still can be used to take off small bearings. They also last forever, that one's probably 45 years old and has taken crank dampers off blown fuel Hemi's and steering stem bearings off a GasGas tripleclamp. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spokerider Posted March 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2009 I discovered using a bit of heat from a propane torch helped with the removal of the old crank seals and installation of the new ones. The new seals I bought were made by Honda and looked a tad more narrow than the old ones, and would have been tough to tap in without heat....... Wondering.......now that both side cases are off, can any of the other seals be changed? or do the cases need to be split to re and re them? I've already changed the [ outside ] shifter seal on the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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