plankton_brain Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 You are not alone. I have exactly the same problem on my 2004. It lasts 1 to 2 hours between plugs. Black, dry sooty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Gday, Dry, Black and Sooty plug = Too Rich (too much fuel). Check the Air cleaner first, then make sure the carb is set correctly and it pays to make sure all the exhaust is clean too. Cheers, Stork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_moggster Posted May 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Hi Guys Sorry for the delay in my posting any progress or lack of it would be more accurate. Problem, when warmed up (hot) engine starts to sounds dull as the throttle starts to open and then you have to keep revs up a bit to keep it running, as it dies on tickover, eventually almost always underload, pulling up a climb and then opening it up to climb a step at the top it dies and stops and won't start again. If you leave it for 10 mins it will start again and run for about 10 secs and then no matter how much throttle you give it, it won't rev up it just dies. If you put a new plug in it fires up straight away and runs fine but this doesn't last long... The plug you take out is dry but heavily sooted! Have tried cleaning the fouled plugs (15 of them now) but brushing and cleaning with carb cleaner doesn't seem to work, they run ok for a short while and then they die again. Ok What I have tried in order to resolve the black sooty plug burn out issue on my 315. Replaced the Air Fliter with new Dual layer Jitsie. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Tried running slightly lean on the oil mix. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Stripped, and cleaned carb. Checked Header pipe for blockage. Repacked rear silencer. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Checked and cleaned Stator, fly wheel and coil. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Replaced Stator unit. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Replaced Needle and idle jet. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Lift the click on the needle one notch above middle. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Tried different positions with the air screw. It sooty up the plug(s) and stopped running. Ok were to go now??????? Check reed block? Reeds? Run a hotter plug? Change CDI unit? Spark plug cap? Ignition Coil? Middle exhaust box replace? I'm Going to do the slide and also the reeds as the slide is worn and if the reed block is coming off then i will upgrade the reeds to Boysen ones at the same time. Cheers all I will keep ploding along with this... p.s it is seriously cheesing me off now!! and my dad keeps saying "should have brought a beta rev 3" !!!!!! arggggghhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plankton_brain Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I have exactly the same problem. I have been planning to strip carb and make sure all setings are stock. sounds like youve already done this so I wont get any joy. In the manual, it tells you to replace the plug cap every 3 races. I thought this was unusual and probably a misprint and should read just 'plug'. I was going to get a new one with the next plugs I buy, gotta be worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_moggster Posted September 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Hi all.... So sorry i haven't return sooner to bring this topic to its conclusion with a solution, just been so busy and haven't been out on bike for ages, but (touch wood) got it all sorted out now and about to get out riding again. Ok so... I replaced the worn slide and while i had the carb stripped to replace the slide i printed off a blow up of the carb and parts. And it was as i dismantled the old slide i noticed something, I can't for the life of workout how i missed before. The needle, despite having adjusted the clip position several times, wasn't held underneath the plastic shroud, between it and the top of the slide body but was instead through the top of the plastic, down into the slide, between the spring and the plastic, meaning the needle was a minimum of 6 mm high regardless of clip position, much to rich in the running! All put back together and so far ,,,, big difference and no fouling so far... which i would have expected to have happened already at least twice! So there is a possibility that it was the worn slide and no doubt this was a contributory factor to the overall poor running of the engine and there is a possibility that i just didn't put the needle back in the right place previously, however i don't remember moving it from the position above the plastic, as far as i can remember this is where it was when i stripped it down and adjusted the circlip in the first instance after buying the bike (previous owner ran the bike with a hotter plug to counter the fouling), in fact having just looked back at the pictures of the worn slide you can see the needle is sticking out the top of the slide despite the spring being firmly in place on top of the plastic collar in the top of the slide, according to my interpretation of the carb diagram it should be held in place by the plastic collar, which in turn is held in place by the spring. Hope that makes sense. On top of fitting the new slide and repositioning the needle to below the plastic collar and in so doing lowering the position of the needle by around 5mm I have also fitted you Boysen power reeds while i was doing it all..... So take your pick of what resolved the issue... Contestant No.1 New slide, (improved engine running in general) Contestant No.2 New Reeds, (smoother pick up, sharper and more power) Contestant No.3 In correctly positioned needle.... This one seems to be the most likely cause of the major issues of plug burn out! Cheers Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barnesy Posted October 27, 2010 Report Share Posted October 27, 2010 Hi Moogster, Glad to hear you have finally got your bike running good! Was just wondering how you fit a PWK to a Mont I'm presuming you got new rubbers inlet and airbox side or did you stretch the standard ones to fit? Cheers B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_moggster Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Hi Guys, Gees haven't been on here for ages.. life has been up and down and not have time to out on the monty for ages, so sun was out sky was blue and life is good and monty started second kick.... been stood for nearly 3 years. Bike went all day yesterday sweet as a nut, no plug problems at all. The PWK carb was already on it when I brought it, I can find details of which one and the jets etc if anyone is interested still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck4788 Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I bought a PWK two years ago for my 04, but have been procrastinating installing it because it is a 28mm and I was concerned that I might lose low end throttle response. Another problem is adapting the larger PWK inlet bell to the Monty air boot so I'm curious about your installation. Can you post pictures of your installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_moggster Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi ya I didn't fit the carb, but have rebuilt it and fit new jets and slide, I will try and take some pictures of it today and post them later if not I will definitely get round to it at the weekend when I have a few other jobs to do on her. Been out again and still no problems with plug fouling, there was one point at which it wouldn't start and I think that was because I let it lie over and it caused it to flood. Couple of kicks with the Throttle fully open and it started no problems. Will take the plug out at the week end and inspect the colour. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_moggster Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi Chuck Sorry I ment to ask you to clarify your low end throttle response concerns. Do you mean in terms of engine pickup, squirtyness, sharpness, etc ??? Mog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mont315 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I bought a PWK two years ago for my 04, but have been procrastinating installing it because it is a 28mm and I was concerned that I might lose low end throttle response. Another problem is adapting the larger PWK inlet bell to the Monty air boot so I'm curious about your installation. Can you post pictures of your installation? my neighbour machined me this reducer out of a nylon billet its on the same lines as ones on sale to overcome the same problem fitting pwk's to fantic's all you do is use some liquid metal or upoxy glue to hold it on the carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck4788 Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks I can machine one of those in aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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