ming Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 Hi All, Just picked up a 2000 year Beta Rev 3 250cc. Seems fine apart from a few issues so will be tapping your collective brains for info! First up is slight sideways play in the swingarm which I'm guessing is only going to be solved by removing the spindle and replacing the bearings. Rear brake squeaks a little and doesn't stop the bike, just slightly slow it down! Plenty of meat on the pads so I'm going to take the caliper off and see if the piston's sticking. Engine doesn't seem to rev cleanly and as the bike's not been used much for a year I'm sure it would benefit for a carb strip as the jets may be blocked? Finally (for now) - there's a distinct crackle from the exhaust so is this an indication that the silencer needs re-packing and if so, how do I go about that? Is the can designed to be opened and closed up again on a regular basis? Sorry for the initial questions but I'm keen to get it running right asap. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 swinging arm play, if the arm literally moves sideways chack how tight the nut is on the spindle. might save time( lots) and money (lots and lots) if tightening the nut (22mm) doesnt help consider this how bad is the play is it going to make a difference.. because the 120 quid for 4 bearings 4 bushes and a replacement spindle and nut does make a difference.. the silencer, the end of the can is held on by 2 screws, the can is held on the frame with one bolt undo the bolt and just pull it off the exhaust pipe. whip the two screws out and pull the plastic end off. the thing is stuffed with fibre if its gnarly and black its toast, pull it all out the perforated tube will come out too. lampkins will sell you a 'cartrideg to push bak in its place for 25 quid or buy a bag of stuffing off the tinternet for about a tenner and stuff it in fairly tight. reassembel and the thing will be quiet. brakes, hike the back end up and watch the pads going in and out .. chack whats wrong before stripping it down .. know your enemy.. as for the carb before stripping the thing is the airfilter clean and oiled ok, is all the fuel new ( super unleaded) and at the right oil ratio (70ml per 5 litres) is the airbox spotless.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 Check the pistions move in and out freely (remove the pads to test) and the caliper is blead properly. But.... the rear brake sounds like the pads have had brake fluid on them so they have to be binned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevc Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I have the same bike and I stripped the brake pistons out and cleaned them and everything else, the brakes work fine now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ming Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Thanks for the input guys. I'm having a look at the carb and air filter in the morning. Could be gummed up as it's not been used much for the last year. Swingarm has about 2mm sideways play - you'd think it was wheel bearings but they're fine. I'll try to torque the spindle up first though! Any idea of torque settings for the spindle nut and rear wheel nut? Really looking forward to getting out on it tomorrow afternoon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ming Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Right then........ Starting at the back and working forward: back wheel out and have a butchers at the brake. I was mistaken and the fact is the pads are down to almost zero! Will get some this week in time for next Friday's trial but they were okay for todays' shakedown. Straightened the chain tensioner as that had taken a knock, cleaned the pistons up, chain cleaned (and joint circlip put in the right way round.......)and lubed. Much better - wheel spins easily now and the brake works well enough to lock the wheel on descents. Pedal still too high and a bit tucked in so will see to that this week. Rear mudguard/seat unit off - needed to replace the bolts holding it on as they were mullered! Air filter out and remove a kilo of grass and dust.....! Cleaned, dried and oiled after replacing the screws holding that in as well. The airbox itself was clean enough though. The spark plug was a tad oily but the previous owner was running it at 50/1. It's bloody tight in and around the engine isn't it?! Not sure if there is an expansion tank for the radiator and if so, where? Couldn't see any way to top it up. Swingarm bolt/spindle was tight enough so the play is down to the bearings but I'll leave it for now. There is also a few mm travel in the bottom of the shock mount when the rear is off the ground - normal? Once warm the engine revs cleanly and the crackly exhaust gets a lot quieter. Will repack the end can next week as well. Checked the tyre pressures......would you believe 40psi rear 25psi front?!! Using 6psi in both now - what do you guys reckon is best for novice trials in the south where it's mud/leaves rather than rocks? Roll on Friday and my first trial! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzralphy Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Up by the steering head you will see a plastic frame bung thingy. Remove the LHS one to get to the radiator cap. There is no expansion tank so when you top it up it will spit out the first 30ml when warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ming Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Here's the update...... Checked coolant and because you can't see the level I topped it up...needlessly as it was full so will expect to lose some when it runs again! At least I know it's watertight, the fan works, so I'm confident it'll be fine for a day's use. Too much play in the throttle cable for my liking so took the carb off and wound the adjuster out as far as it would go - still not perfect so I guess the cable has stretched so much I need a new one? Rear brake lever was too high so adjusted it so it's fine for me but now it doesn't work - I'm guessing that because the pads are so worn out the lever had to be adjusted up making the lever high in order for it to operate the brake? I hope that when the new pads go in the lever can stay at the optimum position and still work the brake. Head bearings were loose but that was simply a case of tightening the things up! One other thing - the side stand had broken off at the mounting and been thrown. I want to fit another one but will one from a different make/model fit my Rev3 using the original mountings on the swingarm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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