trial_master Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) I think the water pump seals/ shaft have gone on my 07 2.9. When i bought my 03 sherco in 2005 (2 years old, same age as what i have now. The shaft went on that aswell.... Do they only last about 2 years????) When the engine is up to temperature it leaks a very small amount of coolant on to the bash plate from the weep hole - sign of broken seals Gearbox oil was just off normal colour, but nothing to write home about. I was told that the main way to tell if the pump had gone was to ride the bike with high revs in 2nd or 3rd gear and it should sould like your pottering in 5th gear ( a juddering sound, without the actual juddering of using the wrong gear) This time the bike is not making these sounds, so it makes me think that it may not be the seals. Advice please? If i do have to do the waterpump fix i will probably have a go at it myself as I am led to believe that it isn't that hard of a job. Last time it went, I took it to Wadsworth to get fixed. I have looked it up on the internet and know roughly what to do (All should come clearer once i start taking the bike apart) My questions to you guys are Any hints or tips for this transplant? Apart from a shaft and 2 new seals what else will i need? Any sealants? bearings? special tools? etc... Edited April 5, 2009 by Trial_master Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevec Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 This should help: http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/water_pump_s...replacement.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 There were some shaft changes on earlier bikes, but this should not apply to your model. The purpose of the drain hole is to detect seal leakage and prevent coolant migration into the gearbox side. It is possible you could have a leaky seal, but you would need to inspect the shaft to determine if there was sig wear to justify replacement. I would do both seals reguardless. Possibility of breaking a clutch case gasket upon disassembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Dry the weep hole, run the bike,you don't have to ride it, and check for new droplets. As Copey says, 2 Seals and 1 side gasket ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Thanks for the replys, i will be doing an oil change in the next hour or so, so I will have a better idea of what has gone wrong by the colour of the oil (only done 4 hours riding on the current oil, and non of them were in mud/water. So if it is milky, it has got to be the seals. The green coolant that was dripping onto the bashplate was only about a tea spoon full, over about 2 hours, and when the bike was very hot. Does this sound like the seals have gone/ are going? I am no mechanic, so dont realy want to take the bike apart if i dont have to Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoholic Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Have you topped up the rad lately and possibly overfilled it. The rad overflow hose runs down inside the rhs frame spar and the excess coolant will end up on the bashplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 I have drained the oil now and it looks like the seals have gone. The oil has only been in the bike for no more than 4 hours riding. But looks like its been in a lot longer. It is not a grey/ white colour, It is just off its usual goldy brown colour. Which with my small knowledge on bike mechanics looks like the seal is just weeping when the engine gets hot. Shercoholic, I was hoping that it would have been the overflow, but i am certain that it is coming from the 'weep hole'. I drained the coolant off and about 450ml came out (looks to be the same amount in the bowl as when i drained the oil) is this roughly the correct amount? on the Sherco website it says just fill it to the top of the neck. But i just want to know how much it should hold. Im in the process of taking the bike apart, following the instructions on the link STEVEC sent (thanks), but im stuck already getting the bloody kick start off. Allen key came off pretty easy, just cannot manage to slide the kicker off the shaft. I have tryed using a screwdriver to help prise it off. But i am more concerned that i do not damage the rubber seal underneath. Any hints or tips of this. God this is going to be a disaster!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 Do not ''use the force Luke''. Don't quit so early Warm the base of the kickstart up (hairdrier..maybe.. or a hot paint-strip gun...go easy) just where it sits on the shaft,then try again . Do not strike the shaft or kick start..err..if you can possibly help it ,I know it gets frustrating. If you get stuck it may need a puller but I've had 4 Shercos and have never needed one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 I ended up using some penetration oil, gave it a little tap with the butt of a screwdriver. Waited about 10 seconds and hey presto, off it came with a little wobble, easy!!! And no violence required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 I now have the water pump shaft removed from the bike and have noticed that it was not spinning freely. The impeller was catching on the housing of the clutch cover (where its seated). I have put up pictures of the impeller, casing and shaft. Should the impeller wear as much as it has done? I know its only a photo from a mobile phone, but does the shaft look too worn to be serviceable? Is the casing supposed to be worn like it is? or do i need to buy a new clitch casing? if so roughly how much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 The bearings are stuck inside the casing, not on the shaft. How do i get these out without damaging anything. I think I have already scratched the inside of the bearings, so i am not that bothered about damaging them in order to remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Gday, if you can feel the scratches in the shaft with a fingernail It'll need a new one. It looks like the seal is shagged (there is a rust mark on it) so you should replace the bearings as a precautionary measure as they have been washed out by coolant. Its better to do this now than have to pull it all apart later to do the same job. The bearings locate the impeller anyway so if it has been touching the case that's probably why. I don't reckon you need to do anything with the case and impeller but its hard to tell from the photo's. HTH, Cheers, Stork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 The shaft looks good from the photo, although you can polish it up a bit withsome scothbrite or something. If memory serves me correctly, the bearing must come out before you can access the inner seal. If it is stuck, you can heat the cover in the oven to about 250f and it should near fall out. A gentile tapping on its inner race through the opposing side may be required. Tap evenly! Everything should rotate freely when assembled with the exception of the drag of the seals and the impeller should not drag or really even contact anything in the housing. If so, ck for warpage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Have you read the Sherco service manual on this one,it's superb? These small bearings require very little force to seat/remove them. Judging by your photos the impeller housing seem ok, are you worried about the rough casting area?..that's just a cast passageway for your coolant,it doesn't look like the impeller has been fouling there. If the shaft is only polished and not scored I would use it again...pay attention to which way the seals are fitted (facing/out over/in over..cos I got it wrong once!!). C'mon mechanic brother you are doing well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trial_master Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 Thanks for the replys guys! I now have the bearing out, damaged it in the process so i will need to replace them. They're only about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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