lian Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) When i start bike after night stand or just after a lil brake all seems to be normal, but after few minutes riding appears problems. Symptoms: 1. Rattle in engine. Seems in cylinder. In addition for that reason become deaf at N gear, but even on any gear just shut off while ride (after couple mins riding). One more thing - when i rde out garage (engine rattling already i think) i open throttle but bike gave no traction (appeared one time).. Short video with sound of engine before and after - Rapidshare (sorry i changed names of video files occasionally. works bad means good and contrary) 2. Shifting gears become harder even with clutch lever pushed to handlebars. I use 10 W 40 oil as told in manual, 450cc Aral. Maybe 1 and 2 points linked? 3. Rear suspension become completely nothing. When i sit down on rear fender it must be springy and swing me little but it almost didnt swing. Two yellow rings on suspension set in normal to me point and i rode with them on that position long time without change. What might be the problem? After disassembling an engine is it possible to reassemble it with same cylinder head gasket or necessary to order and set new gasket? Thanks for any help!!! Edited April 11, 2009 by Lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) This language thing is difficult for a Texas Redneck to overcome, Lian! Ok, here we go! 1-Some rattle is normal. They tend to rattle a bit more when warm and the oil has thinned a bit. Pulling the clutch in usually reduces rattle when in neutral. 2- If your clutch is dragging to the point that it is difficult to shift when stationary, even with the lever pulled to the bars, you probably need new clutch plates! 3- Adjust rear spring nuts so there is 20-30mm sag with the weight of the bike only! 4- Old cylinder head o-rings and cylinder base gaskets should be replaced if disassembled! I could not get video to work! Hope that helps! Oh, ps- Do not expect the motor to respond well cold! Edited April 12, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted May 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 (edited) Clatter was caused by rubbing piston (i think i forgot shake the jerrican before ride..) I was obliged to make restoration works on cylinder. Pic1 Pic2 2. Shifting gears become harder even with clutch lever pushed to handlebars. I use 10 W 40 oil as told in manual, 450cc Aral. Sometimes, not always. 2- If your clutch is dragging to the point that it is difficult to shift when stationary, even with the lever pulled to the bars, you probably need new clutch plates! I don't see any defects with clutch inside... My clutch lever is pushing harder then need to be (i have friend's trials bike to compare) so after 15mins effective pushing lever, while doing some technique, my finger become not mine anymore.. refuse to bend! Does somebody had this kind of problem? Clutch line is without air! I tried to regulate bolt, but if it unscrewed to easy push - bike becomes deaf when pushing lever stationary, if bolt is srewed in full - bike not deaf when clutch in, but finger is suffer a lot! Since clutch rings are not worn-out, maybe there is something in piston camera and spring? Maybe spring is too stiff? Is it possible? Edited May 7, 2009 by Lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 I think the clutch disks are warped, replace them all, metal and fiber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 I think the clutch disks are warped, replace them all, metal and fiber! Piston a goner, what oil are you using? Can you at least obtain Yamalube 2R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) Oh, why do u think clutch plates are warped?? I think they're fine. Or not?? I used Silkolene and most - Esso 2T oil but now start to buy Motorex. Piston not really goner. After some acid on the cilynder to remove aluminium and some works at piston it runs good. Piston not robbered a lot. So what can be with my stiff pushes? Which way i need to think? Edited May 8, 2009 by Lian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 The piston skirt appears to have lost enough metal that it will still sound the same and knock excessively and simply cleaning the bore will not help this. In the photo of the clutch, the pack height seems excessive as the top plate seems too high. Almost as though the entire thing must be krammed back together. Take them all out and clean them, then place them on a piece of glass or other flat surface. With what I believe you are trying to describe, your excessive adjustment of the lever and need to pull back to the bar to get a release also indicates you may be forcing the springs into or near a coil-bind situation. In other words, you can only push the pressure plate out soo far in an effort to separate the plates. Hope that helps, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lian Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Hm, strange thing u're telling, but Thanks, i will check plates. In clutch piston camera on handlebar could be problem causing hard pushes or just plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Hm, strange thing u're telling, but Thanks, i will check plates.In clutch piston camera on handlebar could be problem causing hard pushes or just plates? Not likely, these tend to either work(make pressure) or not. You should be able to back the inside adjuster screw out, untill there is a slight bit of lost motion(free play), as it lever is moved in(building pressure), the clutch should release about half way in, and still off the fingers. If you have to pull it back to the bars it is dragging too much, and you are likely trying to overcompensate with the screw trying to push it more(too far) which will also cut off the return flow of the fluid to the master cylinder and make other bad things happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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