slogger Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) Well I have finally settled my internal Sherco/Rev 3 dilema and have got myself what seems like a tidy and solid 2004 270 rev 3. Took it out for its first dust down ride today (not so much dust as mud) just to blow the cobwebs off it and snag any small issues. The usual little things for a 4-5 year of bike (ie levers, pedals, sprocket all seen better days, tyres shot and a small amount of residue oil showing on the fork legs). Little things to deal with but most importantly the brakes were spot on, the engine and gear box were sweet and it rode well. So a few questions to bring me up to speed.... Am probably going to be competing once a month and practicing for 2-3 hours every other week. 1) What is the normal servicing routine? Its a 2 stroke so their is no engine oil but what is the common mix ratio. I also read that the gearbox oil seems to be changed regularly? The observation glass is full but I will probably do a first change anyway but whats the common frequency? What oil is used and what volume. Once again Im reading specific oils vs MTF? I have 5lts of fully synthetic MTF which is API GL4 grade which is on par with 75w/80. I assuming their is a service sheet available for download somewhere but looking at the bike I can see a drain plug under the sump guard and a allen "cap" filer on the kickstart side just behind the water pump? 2) How often do people drain and flush the cooling system, or is this fairly self maintaining and just needs topping up / monitoring? 3) The only niggle riding the bike was that the rear shock seemed soft. It has a PAIOLI branded shock on it. Is this aftermarket or standard. Can see 2 knurled rings at the base which I assume are preload? They are quite low down (ie applying very little tension to the spring. Any thoughts here ?? Anything else I need t know about general servicing, also how much of a pig are the front forks to re-seal? Rob Edited April 30, 2009 by slogger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Anything else I need t know about general servicing, also how much of a pig are the front forks to re-seal?Rob Forks are pretty simple to do.. let us know when you have the correct seals and im sure either me or somebody else will post you up a guide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) use a nice fully synthetic oil for the engine i have an 03 and use 70ml in 5litres of super unleaded, no smoke and no plug fouling, clean the airfilter after every ride, they dont half collect the muck/dust. completely wash and re oil once evry 3 or 4 rides ( not too much oil the bike will run rich) that gearbox oil has gone after about 8hrs ( dont do any more) it takes about 550 ml to do the job i use 10-40 check the plug after every ride. after every ride remove the flywheel cover and wd40 the insides leave off until the next ride. check the water level before every ride it should be just below the level of the bottom of the thread. when riding try not to put your feet down. Edited April 30, 2009 by totalshell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ming Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I'm up to speed on the gearbox oil and premix situation but the flywheel thing confuses me! What happens if you don't take the cover off each ride? And does the gasket need replacing each time? Sorry if I sound a numpty but it's the first 2 stroke I've had for quite a while...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opdeweegh1 Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 Taking the flywheel cover off is purely to remove any excess moisture from the ignition system. The earlier beta's have been know to develop stator problems, a frequent spray of WD40 to repel any moisture will save you well earned pennies later. Worthwhile removing the water pump and checking the casing behind and around the impellor as there have been several cases of erosion in the magnesium cases where a hole develops and the water enters the gearbox oil. I use Dextron ATF2 automatic transmision fluid which is red, therefore if any water gets in you can immediately see the oil turn pink in the sight glass. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevel Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 Reference setting up your suspension, I have found this useful. http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/tria...nsion-tips.html There is a lot of technical jargon but in the 4th & 5th paragraphs it outlines how to set up the 'sag' to suit your weight. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slogger Posted May 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 Worthwhile removing the water pump and checking the casing behind and around the impellor as there have been several cases of erosion in the magnesium cases where a hole develops and the water enters the gearbox oil. This sounds nasty ? how big a deal is it if your spot the early stage (ie what gets replaced to make good again ??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betarev3 Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I discovered this to my horror when I removed the gearbox casing to replace a leaking gasket (the original gaskets are rubbish). There was some bad corrosion holes in the casing, but no penetration to the gearbox side in my case. I decided to have a go at repairing it, and just used some 'plastic padding' plastic metal for auto store. I removed the casing, cleaned it all up and filled the holes and built up around the area with the plastic metal until I had a smooth coating over the whole of the exposed area behind the impellor. Left it to cure and them painted with heat resistant paint for brake caliper to seal from further attack. This repair looks as good as new after several months of use, so would recommend to try this before purchasing new casing, as they are expensive - especially if you fit new seals and bearings.... I would recommend all Rev 3 owners to remove the water pump casing and inspect this area before it fails completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subanator Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I have changed 2x casings now due to rotting out. Tried synthetic coolant etc. and still failed. Its easy to inspect, drop the coolant from the drain screw on water pump cover. 3x screws off the water pump cover and loosen off the hoses. If you see any white pasty stuff in around the impeller, its magnesium rot. Beware it can block the radiator cores if its bad. I flushed my engine out and radiator (reverse flushed with hose pressure, and let drain. Good news is the earlier aluminum casing fits and fixes this prob forever, smallest of weight penalty, as I have now done. I blocked off the internal coolant passage thats now exposed with a rubber plug (from earlier design). Run standard coolant. What happens is the powder coating is too thin on the magnesium, as it is sacrificial to aluminum and corrodes due to electrolysis. With any second hand bike,I would at your convenience go right over it. Pull down and regrease everything - swingarm, headstock, wheel bearings. Replace all fluids and oils - gearbox, forks, coolant, brake fluid (a pain but worth doing). Clean exhaust, repack muffler. At least you now have a reliable mount that will last you all season. I do this at the end of every season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slogger Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Guys, Many thanks for the wealth of advice that has been passed on here. Dont know what I looking forward to more.......the competing or the tinkering! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooligan Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Regarding the waterpump casing rot, i checked mine out in the weekend, and found that it was starting to corode inside. I was told to paint over it(if its not too bad) with epoxy by our local beta importer. What i decided was to do was paint it with nail polish, cause i was in a bit of a hurry to ride, and i had no epoxy. Now im stressing about it, thinking maybe i made a mistake. Do you think the nail polish is gonna hold up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Regarding the waterpump casing rot, i checked mine out in the weekend, and found that it was starting to corode inside. I was told to paint over it(if its not too bad) with epoxy by our local beta importer. What i decided was to do was paint it with nail polish, cause i was in a bit of a hurry to ride, and i had no epoxy. Now im stressing about it, thinking maybe i made a mistake. Do you think the nail polish is gonna hold up? What colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooligan Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 What colour Maroon with some glitter in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwak7 Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Nooooo. You've had it. Should've used gold for its better heat dissipating properties Subanator - "Clean exhaust, repack muffler"........how do you go about cleaning the inside of the exhaust? My 2000 250's pipes are massively coked and often get fuel through them due to flooding issues (hopefully solved that with carb mod but cant check yet as bike wont start ) cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 clean eahaust and repack muffler.. exhausts in 3 bits front pipe, mid pipe and tail pipe take the tail pipe off and remove the plastic end cap ( wearing rubber gloves) get all the stuffing out , the perforated piep will come out too, chuck the stuffing. clean the remains in petrol or diesel wipe clean, phone gary at lampkins and get a silencer cassete ( preformed nois stopping thing) slide it on to perforated pipe slide whole lot into silencer. refix to pipe. front pipe whip it off and fill it which petrol let it stand all day if poss. take it outside on a hard pavement patio a set light to it it will burn for 5 minutes easy. allow to cool scrape all the gubbins out with a coat hanger. if still packed with carbon repeat until proper shiney ( well cleanish) refit. dont attempt to clean the middel pipe with petro ofr anthing else its packing burns and is non replaceable. a new mid pipe is the only alternative but at 170 squid it would have to be badly blocked to warrant it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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