mjb Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 I'm having trouble starting my gasgas pro 05 300 when it's warm. I've tried a number of things to sort it including new stator, pick up and voltage regulator as well as the checking carb jets. The only thing I haven't tried is a new cdi ignition. I've got a ducati on mine and I've found someone who is breaking a 250 but it has a denki. Does anyone know if this would do? If so is there a different voltage regulator or wiring to go with it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 I'm having trouble starting my gasgas pro 05 300 when it's warm. I've tried a number of things to sort it including new stator, pick up and voltage regulator as well as the checking carb jets. The only thing I haven't tried is a new cdi ignition. I've got a ducati on mine and I've found someone who is breaking a 250 but it has a denki. Does anyone know if this would do? If so is there a different voltage regulator or wiring to go with it?Cheers The Denki will probably not work on your Ducati system. Try checking the "air gap" (the distance between the pin on the magnetic pick up and the nub on the flywheel), it should be 0.7mm (.027"). Get an NGK BPR5EIX plug and set it to .024" ( 0.6mm). I've had several 05' 300 owners report back to me that the recommendation of the EIX plug solved their starting problem. The GG engines tend to act "cold blooded" when cooled off a little from warm, so if it does not start first or second kick, use the choke and it should fire right off. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Jon, I have put a EIX plug in it a few months ago and a bigger choke jet (80). It still plays up when hot. I've owned a 300 before so I know that there is a nack to starting them (normally in neutral and a big hefty kick on the top of the stroke does the job). However this one is something else. I have got the pick up position as suggested but it still has trouble starting. When it runs its fine, I never have a problem in a section. The other thing I have noticed due to the change in rules over here in the UK (we can now stop) I have noticed a few times the engine dies on me when i have the clutch in and just balancing the bike eg just on tick over. I guess my question is do you think its electric or fuel related? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Jon,I have put a EIX plug in it a few months ago and a bigger choke jet (80). It still plays up when hot. I've owned a 300 before so I know that there is a nack to starting them (normally in neutral and a big hefty kick on the top of the stroke does the job). However this one is something else. I have got the pick up position as suggested but it still has trouble starting. When it runs its fine, I never have a problem in a section. The other thing I have noticed due to the change in rules over here in the UK (we can now stop) I have noticed a few times the engine dies on me when i have the clutch in and just balancing the bike eg just on tick over. I guess my question is do you think its electric or fuel related? Hard for me to tell without actually inspecting the engine and CDI system. Try checking the resistance to see if there is a problem there: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/200...0CDI%20ohms.pdf You also may want to check for something like an intake manifold leak, which is more often than not caused by the somewhat common practice of overtightening the capscrews (it happens on a lot of bikes). The trick for setting the tickover on a Trials engine, especially the Pro, is to (after warmup) put bike in gear, hold lever in the position you normally ride with (usually pulled in with one finger to the knuckles) and THEN set the idle RPM. Most riders set the tickover with the engine in neutral, which then, with clutch drag, will be too low and contribute to stalling in the on/off throttle applications of a section. The 300 does take a hefty kick, kinda like my old 338cc GG, which promply rewarded any non-commited prod with an explosive kickback and knee into the handlebar (luckily the Pro's are not that brutal). The newer 300's have a different kickstart mechanism (less angle to the spiral cut that the partial gear slides on) which engages the lever higher in the arc and gives a more effective throw. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjb Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 Hard for me to tell without actually inspecting the engine and CDI system. Try checking the resistance to see if there is a problem there:http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/200...0CDI%20ohms.pdf You also may want to check for something like an intake manifold leak, which is more often than not caused by the somewhat common practice of overtightening the capscrews (it happens on a lot of bikes). The trick for setting the tickover on a Trials engine, especially the Pro, is to (after warmup) put bike in gear, hold lever in the position you normally ride with (usually pulled in with one finger to the knuckles) and THEN set the idle RPM. Most riders set the tickover with the engine in neutral, which then, with clutch drag, will be too low and contribute to stalling in the on/off throttle applications of a section. The 300 does take a hefty kick, kinda like my old 338cc GG, which promply rewarded any non-commited prod with an explosive kickback and knee into the handlebar (luckily the Pro's are not that brutal). The newer 300's have a different kickstart mechanism (less angle to the spiral cut that the partial gear slides on) which engages the lever higher in the arc and gives a more effective throw. Jon Thanks for that Jon. I've gone out and bought a multi-meter (must admit i'm no sparky) and tried to test the resistance. The result I got some pretty strange readings, way above what you quoted. The weirdest thing was that depending which probe i used gave different results, for example red probe on A and Black probe on B would give 1.44Mohms and if I swapped them around it would give a reading of 2Mohms. However this was only on a few of the combinations some were consistant using either probe as I would expect. Do you think i'm doing something wrong or is this a sign of the ignition failing? I've gotta admit the gap on my current plug seems a lot bigger than you suggested. what is the best way to reduce the gap without damaging the plug? Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 Thanks for that Jon.I've gone out and bought a multi-meter (must admit i'm no sparky) and tried to test the resistance. The result I got some pretty strange readings, way above what you quoted. The weirdest thing was that depending which probe i used gave different results, for example red probe on A and Black probe on B would give 1.44Mohms and if I swapped them around it would give a reading of 2Mohms. However this was only on a few of the combinations some were consistant using either probe as I would expect. Do you think i'm doing something wrong or is this a sign of the ignition failing? I've gotta admit the gap on my current plug seems a lot bigger than you suggested. what is the best way to reduce the gap without damaging the plug? Cheers Martin Martin, Don't feel too bad, I get weird readings at times too, even with an expensive digital meter. Just keep trying and your readings will be more consistant with experience. Get a good wire sparkplug gauge and it will have a tool with small slots used to bend the outside grounding wire. A wire gauge is much more accurate than a feeler gauge or the type that have a ramp when working with plugs. Most plugs are factory set with a much wider gap than we use in our engines, so check the gap on any new plug before installing. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Jon, chime in on the recent Sherco thread if you get a chance! Takes some reading to follow. MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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