booma Posted November 9, 2004 Report Share Posted November 9, 2004 (edited) just like to share my new bike with you, its taken me a couple of months to get it like this from a standard tlr 200, I done 1 like this in 2002 but in blue\white colours,rode it for a while then sold it, theirs a pic of it somewhere on an earlier honda posting. hope you all enjoy it Edited November 9, 2004 by Booma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted November 10, 2004 Report Share Posted November 10, 2004 where did you get the tank/seat unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booma Posted November 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2004 the tank and seat was bought from a guy called Henry who lives near Ashford in Kent, he told me it was his last one, I have since bought another one from a friend (as I have another Honda on the go ) who has them made so I maybe able to get more in a couple of weeks time the price is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted November 10, 2004 Report Share Posted November 10, 2004 Looking at the picture again the seat/tank unit looks very similar to my Gollner Monoshock TLR. Does this use the normal TLR tank fittings rubbers at the front or is it held by a 'rubber band' ? What capacity is the tank? Where did you get the fuel cap - or alternatively what does the fuel cap come from, the cap on my bike which is still in 100 bits is a very poor fit. I still fancy fitting this type of tank/seat unit to my twinshock TLR - either this or a Plastic tank from a Fantic or similar. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgshannon Posted November 11, 2004 Report Share Posted November 11, 2004 VERY nice bike! I would certainly be proud to have one like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booma Posted November 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 the seat\tank unit is very similar to the gollner unit, as for fitting the ali tank NO it doesn't use any of the existing rubber fitting, just drill and tap it straight onto the top tube then space it up with rubber washers. the fibreglass cover is held on at the front by the petrol cap, the cap is a screw type Yommee product bought from all good trials shops, it screws directly onto the ali tank hope this is of help Booma PS the bike is going up for sale, somebody is looking at it Sat 13/11, I will let you know the outcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Thanks for the info The tank fitment on my Gollner is not the best design I can think of (rubber bands to top tube) - whether this is original I dont know but I have some ideas in mind how to modify this when it comes to refitting the tank. The tank top on my bike is a badly fitting simple plug in 'bung type' top, whether a replacement alloy tank has been made at one time I dont know, again this is something I am not happy with - hence the question about tank top. The fibreglass cover is held at the rear by a bolt through the rear mudguard & rubber clip/band at front - this looks original but I probably have a couple of DZUS fastners looking for a home. Looks kike a nice bike you have though I see you have rebuilt the wheels - i take it due to 'Honda wheel rot disease' - did you bother with double diameter spokes Gordon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booma Posted November 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2004 your right the wheels had the dreaded rot so I had them rebuilt by a friend here in the southeast with Exel rims and large dia stainless steel spokes and nipples, lovely quality and very strong, not cheap but worth it. As I put in my last post the bike was up for sale, well a friend of a friend has just been round and bought it nice fat wallet again so now I can start all over again with the next tlr 200 sitting in the back of my workshop I think I'm going slightly mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petej Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 Booma, Congratulations on an excellent looking bike. I have a TLR200E sitting in bits in my garage and I'd really like to get it looking like yours. Is it possible to go through what you do to the frame and forks to get them looking like that. I'm contemplating getting my frame sand blasted but have no idea whether to have it sprayed or enameled. It looks like you have the forks polished - what needs to be done to get them like that? My wheel hubs are a mess too. What did you do to yours before getting them re-spoked and re-rimmed? Where do you suggest is the best place(s) for spare parts? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 PeteJ - do you know what you're letting yourself in for..?? You'll cry tears of blood and Angels will weep before you're finished... Have your frame and swingarm powder coated by a reputable firm as it will provide a durable quality finish. They will blast it as part of the job. Fork legs/yolks just need to be polished by a professional as they are able to remove all of the scratches and imperfections and get the mirror look, as long as there are no deep gouges of course. Or you could do it yourself with wet and dry and solvol but I wouldn't recomend it for your sanity and although you'd get a good shine you'd never get the deep mirror look. I bought a polishing kit once and did a Bultaco but bloody hell, what a mess. The whole garage looked like it had been sprayed with soot and I looked like a miner - never again. Only way to tidy up hubs really well is to strip the wheels and have the hubs and brake plates powder coated too. Make sure the bearing housings and brake surfaces are properly masked. If they powder coat the inside of the drum it is an everlasting nightmare to remove it - trust me, I know. You then need to rebuild the wheels with stainless spokes. New rims or polish or anodise the old ones. It's a lot of time and effort and is also very costly. I rebuilt my Ossa years ago and did a similar job to Booma's Honda in terms of finish but it doesn't stay looking like that for long if you ride it regularly for any length of time, which I did. Wouldn,t stop me from doing it again though (what am I saying?) as it is worth it when it is first done - you only have to look at Booma's to see that. Powder coaters and polisher etc. you will find in your local yellow pages or classic bike mags. If you want to sell your tl200E instead of subjecting yourself to this torture, send me a message as I've been looking for one to ride in the twinshock series next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 2nd Opinion Time Have your frame and swingarm powder coated by a reputable firm as it will provide a durable quality finish. They will blast it as part of the job. Agree - BUT ensure you use a firm who are used to motorcycle work - that way they know all about masking threads, bearing cups etc. Do all the preparation you can as regards masking off using wooden plugs etc. Speak to the firm you want to use first - they will guide you. Fork legs/yolks just need to be polished by a professional as they are able to remove all of the scratches and imperfections and get the mirror look, as long as there are no deep gouges of course. Or you could do it yourself with wet and dry and solvol but I wouldn't recomend it for your sanity and although you'd get a good shine you'd never get the deep mirror look. Honda fiorks are lacquer coated. Strip the lacquer with paint stripper then rud out the worst of the gouges/scratches with wet n dry or fine emery. Remember its a trials bike - they are meant to be used, not just looked at - what is the point of a mirror finish that will get ruined the first trial you take the bike to? Once you age happy with the general finish its time to polish! Polishing is easy - it is slightly messy but think of the satisfaction knowing you did the work yourself! Have a look at the following site for polishing tips & kits http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/ Only way to tidy up hubs really well is to strip the wheels and have the hubs and brake plates powder coated too. Make sure the bearing housings and brake surfaces are properly masked. If they powder coat the inside of the drum it is an everlasting nightmare to remove it - trust me, I know. Wheel builders need to know the pattern of spokes & more importantly the wheel offset. Give the wheel to the wheel builder and let him/her source the powder coating of the hub - they will measure up the wheel before the job starts & you will get a wheel which lies central in the frame. It may be more expensive in the short term but its worth it. A bike proficient powder coater is definately required - they know that brakes do not get powder coated! You then need to rebuild the wheels with stainless spokes. New rims or polish or anodise the old ones. Gold alloy Honda rims are rubbish - dont even dream of polishing or re anodising them - they corrode badly from both inside & outside - if you have not removed the tyres from the wheels on your TLR do so you will get a shock how bad the wheels are. Buy new rims - this is the only answer- whether stainless spokes are worthwhile is debatable? Where do you suggest is the best place(s) for spare parts? Any Honda dealer should be able to get parts - Some TLR parts are getting very hard to get, especially for the 250 which is a much more 'single model specific' bike with several parts now classed as obsolete. The 200 was for sale longer and is less problemed by the 'no longer available part' syndrom. In addition many motor parts for the TLR200 are similar to the XR200, XL200 185 & 125 Appleyards know what they are talking about as regards TLR's. There are some parts available from Dave Silver Spares - BUT NOT MUCH, you really need parts numbers and browse their stock list. Have a look at the following US sites - http://www.powersportspro.com/ - they have an online fiche for the TLR but dont give parts nos http://www.ronayers.com/ - they have a fiche for the XR200 online - much of the motor bits are similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 whether stainless spokes are worthwhile is debatable Been hearing some reports of stainless spokes breaking...on heavy road bikes, though...under heavy use. I'm not sure about dirt/trials bikes, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted November 28, 2004 Report Share Posted November 28, 2004 I would always recommend stainless spokes, ok it costs more but they always stay nice and shiny and won't rust, if you are going to the expense of rebuilding your wheels why bother cutting corners with the spokes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted November 28, 2004 Report Share Posted November 28, 2004 No problem with stainless spokes. My MAR wheels were rebuilt about 12 years ago with stainless spokes and I have never had one break or even needed to tighten one - On a bike that has had some abuse and hard riding over that period and they also still look new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted November 28, 2004 Report Share Posted November 28, 2004 I never cut corners with spokes. Actually, I often spend a FORTUNE on spokes. For my customers who insist on originality, I will often chuck each spoke in a drill press and spin it while sanding out pits. Then they all get bead blasted, then they go out and get cadmium plated! For the stuff that doesn't have to be dead original, I use stainless and bead blast them to look like cadmium. For shiny stuff, I buff them individually. I spend WAY too much time on spokes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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