keta Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Hey guys, I've recently bought my first bike a Sherco 250 (2000). I bought it on a whim as the price was cheap for the outside condition. However I am discovering gremlins. I wanted a project bike as I can't start riding until the new year due to my first child being born, I will be skint until we both return to work! He brought it round and it started and rid fine. I had a bit of an examine and the exhaust wouldn't meet the cyclinder correctly as one attachment had sheared off from the cylinder. I have sorted that as best I can using studs rather than bolts. It will hold just fine as it is. So I thought all is well! I have not started or rid the bike but begin immediately stripping it down, I know cars pretty well but have zero experience with 2 strokes. I want to in a way have to do everything to fix a bike as I plan this on being a long hobby and after my "practice bike" I plan to buy a more modern one in a year or so. I guess what I am saying is no job too big, short of having to bore out! I need to be able to fix them for when I have a bike of value. I'm glad i didn't run it before stripping it as the first sign of trouble was zero coolant in the radiator. I had previous bought every form of oil to change all fluids on the bike as history is unknown. After discovering no coolant I immediately drained the transmission oil today and it is all a light-dark grey emulsion colour. I assume it's my coolant causing this. I am not sure the duration since last topped up with coolant but below the radiator in coolant level is quite a lot gone! Now what more major, within engine casing problems could this be. And could just the water pump seals cause this much of a problem? What would you do as a starter? I'll have more of a poke tomorrow. Also a good cheap source of parts I'm going to be needing would be great! Thanks for spending the time to read this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 (edited) Dark grey's or blacks normal, light grey isn't... If it looks quite milky change your water pump seal, if not just change the oil and get on with it Edited May 27, 2009 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Dark grey's or blacks normal, light grey isn't... If it looks quite milky change your water pump seal, if not just change the oil and get on with it Thanks for the speedy response. It is milky! I never understand the term when I read other posts. It is milky in texture but dark grey in colour. It no longer looks like oil! More like a tin of grey emulsion paint. Hmmmm, I don't think its right. I'll get a picture of it, give me 10 mins!! Is there more serious problems it could be with this amount of coolant missing? No visible leaks. Pictures to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 The picture! It just looks like sludge! I've never pulled out anyhting like it in a car! Seems quite major for a small seal leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Ahh no, thats not right I'd suspect water pump seal if your rad was empty too... not a huge job, just fiddly, I'm sure someone on here can give proper directions on how, I've not needed to do it myself before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Ahh no, thats not right I'd suspect water pump seal if your rad was empty too... not a huge job, just fiddly, I'm sure someone on here can give proper directions on how, I've not needed to do it myself before Cheers mate, I will replace the shaft, seal and bearings if I find a decent place to get them. I just wondered if there was any other cause for it!? Just seems a bit severe but like I said I have no experience with bikes lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Well, these seals can go anytime, no matter the age of the bike... so say its been doing it five years, thats enough to drain the rad yeah? You did say it was empty, now think of shoving a litre of water into your oil, not good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Well, these seals can go anytime, no matter the age of the bike... so say its been doing it five years, thats enough to drain the rad yeah? You did say it was empty, now think of shoving a litre of water into your oil, not good! A valid point. However the seller claims to have had the main bearings changed 2 weeks ago. I'm pretty sure the seller is less than fully honest but whether he has or not who knows. It is without doubt my first port of call. I just wondered if any internal engine problems could be to blame! I just need to source the parts, ideally locally, but hopefully fairly cheap! Worth doing if its the problem or not anyway I guess. Many thanks Shercoman for your help thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted May 27, 2009 Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 (edited) In that case, maybe he's almost bad as mechanic as me New mains you say, requires taking the cylinder off! Cylinder off means coolant drains off, coolant draining off means empty rad.. theres a big chance that he forgot to top the rad back up... but yeah, thats definately water in your oil! I'd say for now, top your rad up, refill your gearbox (440ml 10w-40, can use atf or bike specific stuff, i've had good results with the PJ1 but your best off getting ATF whilst trying to cure problems as its much cheaper! Once everythings topped up, run it for an hour or so, drain a bit of oil off... check the colour, if its milky theres a BIG leak... if its not, top the oil back up (however much you took out) and ride it for 20 minutes or so to allow it to circulate, then leave the bike sit overnight... Check both the oil and coolant levels again. If oils milky you need to do your water pump seal... if its fine I suspect that when the cylinder was removed some coolant, well, quite a lot of coolant escaped down into the block and found its way into your oil, if thats the case I reckon you should be fine! For parts locally, in Yorkshire you will have no problem, Malcolm Rathmell Sports, known on here and everywhere else as MRS... Give them a buzz in the morning and ask to speak to either Martin or Malcolm! Number: 01423 772885 Anything else just give us a shout, and im sure Copey will be on at some point in the morning, normally about half three to give some more advice... Maybe pick up on something I've missed! Good place for parts online is Splat Shop, not 100% sure where there based but they seem to have everything you need http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...t-99-to-00.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...mp-bearing.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco/engine/s...-pump-seal.html If your ordering from there, not rathmells you will need to order TWO seals, but yeah, give MRS a try first! Edited May 27, 2009 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 That does look rather nasty! Think you may well be on track here, yet you could run a verification test since you have no real history on it. Fill the tranny with ATF and just add water to the rad as this is no long term test. If it comes out with low coolant and ATF looking like a strawberry milkshake, well you have hit it! MRS should be able to fix you on any parts, and if the pump shaft is grooved, replace it along with the seals and bearing if needed. There is a recent thread on water pump replacement with a good pic and tips to go along with the process in the stickies on the RYP site. Only other tip I can tell is maybe not normally totally top the rad, as the excess will be put out the overflow as things warm up. However in your case, this may hurry the test result. But normally I just fill the top tank about half way, so enough to cover the coils and just leave some headspace for expansion. Hope that helps, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 Thanks guys. Its a choice of running it as the test and just opening her up! I was going to look at the impeller yesterday but the coolant drain plug is rounded! I will have to angle grind a slot into it to get it out! I have emailed MRS anyway and will prob buy it all if not too steep and do it anyway! It can't hurt. I will be running out of time before back to work but I will keep you guys posted, thanks very much for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 A 2000 model bike is likely to need shaft replaced, there was a redesign around 2001 I think. If the drain screw is rounded thats not unusual & taking the 3 screws that hold the cover on will allow a look at the impeller. Apart from the shaft the bearings & seals are available from any bearing supplier, you'll also need clutch cover gasket Job all up should take an hour tops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keta Posted May 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 A 2000 model bike is likely to need shaft replaced, there was a redesign around 2001 I think.If the drain screw is rounded thats not unusual & taking the 3 screws that hold the cover on will allow a look at the impeller. Apart from the shaft the bearings & seals are available from any bearing supplier, you'll also need clutch cover gasket Job all up should take an hour tops Cheers Tony, Nobody seems to think it could be anything but this, which is good! Yeah I'm having quite a fight with the bolt! I thought it was the drain one but it isn't, its the lower securing one and its on stupidly tight and rounded. I have tried the slot approach and got a good bit of force on it but still it didn't budge! I may try filing some flats on it and try a spanner and then i'll drill if that doesn't work! Bloody thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andysv1k Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 Sorry to hear your having probs Keta, it looked a good bike, just bad luck i guess (or dodgy seller ) as for the stuck bolt, try heat and shocking it too. maybe even easing oil. I hate it when you end up spending hours on a bolt or nut thats stuck when it should be a 1 min job! Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1oldbanjo Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 (edited) I would never advise tearing into something until you research the problem first. Add oil to the transmission, fill the radiator and leave a bit of air space at the top for expansion, then go for a half hour ride. When you get back drain the transmission fluid and check the color. If the color looks fine put a fresh pan underneath and leave the drain plug out overnight and see if any water comes out into the pan. I suspect that once the bike cools the radiator will no longer be under pressure and you will likely not get any additional water out. If you get milky transmission fluid......then it is time to replace the water pump seal and check the condition of the impellor and shaft. IF you want to tear the bike down and do maintenance.....it is advisable to ride the bike enough that you can find the items needing maintenance. Check the grease in the bearing for the rear brake pedal, take apart the rear suspension and grease al the bearings, check brakes, etc. while you have some down time. Edited May 28, 2009 by 1oldbanjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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