thedktor Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 . Bore and piston is OK on the 349 but the piston pin has suffered from the same internal corrosion that wrecked many other parts (I already have a rod and big-end kit to fit). I can get a new piston, with a pin, for the oh-so modest sum of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belldane Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Geez Was the bike used as an anchor at some stage? Try Jared Bates at www.southwestmontesa.com or www.bultacouk.com for that little end shaft. I am sure one or the other can help. Good luck with the project. Let me know how you get on. If you have no luck I have a few shafts here from Montys I have fiddled with over the years which are the same size and although not new they will still do the job (and not rusted like yours) See ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helm Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Hi Steve try here for pins and piston cheaper http://kevinbreedonracing.co.uk/products_ends.asp cheers ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Off Road Only in Llandrindod Wells have (or used to) a fairly large stock of piston pin sizes. If you can find them on the net they used to list all the pin sizes in their catologue, or just ring them with the size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 Gday, Wiseco Part Number S278. This pin is 62.81 long so you may need to grind a bit off the end. Woessner Part No WP042. Same dimensions. Cheers, Stork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 Wow you guys have come up with some great leads, thank you. Geez Was the bike used as an anchor at some stage? Er, no, it was sat in the previous owner's (dry) shed for ten years, and I guess the temperature cycling over the years led to condensation build-up. A lesson to be learnt...... -Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Off Road Only in Llandrindod Wells have (or used to) a fairly large stock of piston pin sizes. Good news! kevinbreedonracing.co.uk couldn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Gday - Yes, and No. Its more critical on a multi-cylinder bike. On a single it could change the balance factor of the crank/piston but not by that much. I'd fit it and not worry, it sounds like it is just about the same anyway. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are perfectly clean and dry when you re-assemble everything, that's more important. Use a household scourer pad like a scotchbrite etc. HTH, Cheers, Stork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Thanks Stork, and I guess its going to be a try-it-and-see exercise regarding the pin weight, but should be ok on a slow revving trials bike eh. Yes, I have rebuilt a few engines (though not quite to the depth of this one!) and am very careful about preparing sealing surfaces. Question though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave dix Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I smear with a bit of grease so if it has to be pulled apart again because something hasn't located correctly it wont stick. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Gday - I never fit a gasket with sealer or grease etc. 2 reasons - 1. The sealer/grease etc acts as a lubricant and can cause the gasket to split between the cases thus failing and 2. A lot of modern gaskets have a sealer built into them which is activated by the heat from the engine. If there is something else present (other sealer/grease etc) this doesn't work anymore and leaks. I can understand the greasing of gaskets to make them easier to release but this school of though comes from the 1920's and 30's (last century) when disassembly of parts was frequent. Things have come a long way since then and no manufacturer anywhere now recommends this. At the end of the day a gasket is cheap and it costs more to do the job twice if it leaks, so better off sticking to current practice I reckon. Modern sealants are an excellent total gasket replacement today also, for things like clutch covers etc. If money is a problem go that way. Use 3 Bond which will cause no problems down the track - everyone uses this from new (Yamaha, Suzuki, Harley, Honda etc etc etc. ) Centre gaskets must be used where they were fitted originally as they affect crank and transmission endfloat. I have never had one fail when properly prepared and I do this for a living! Long winded sorry but HTH, Cheers, Stork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks for the feedback on the gaskets.... Think I will go for the dry option for the centre - I will do some dummy runs anway just to be confident all is ok before clamping it all up properly. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stork955 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Gday Steve - good move there, thats the best way to go. Test stuff as you go too, the crank should spin nice and free and the tranny should shift through all gears. Keep in mind that you will need to rotate the shafts to get the box to change properly, this is normal. Good luck, Cheers, Stork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedktor Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Gday Steve - good move there, thats the best way to go. Test stuff as you go too, the crank should spin nice and free and the tranny should shift through all gears. Keep in mind that you will need to rotate the shafts to get the box to change properly, this is normal. Stork Thanks Stork, points noted! - Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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