sawtooth Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Will i have to change both the bar clamps and the yoke on my 03 Rev 3 to fit Fatbars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titanium Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Get a set of fat bar adapters, they will add some rise, about 3/4" I think. Then get a set of pro tapers in the suzuki factory bend. This combo is very close to renthal kuroyama 7/8" bars Should cost around $125 u.s. dollars for the whole setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkartoom Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 I'm planning to get a set of these for mine soon. S3 Adjustable Handlebar Clamps These will give a bit of rise, which I need. Someone makes one similar but with a bit less rise, but I forget where I saw them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrandomapple Posted July 13, 2009 Report Share Posted July 13, 2009 Pete, You could make them at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sawtooth Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Get a set of fat bar adapters, they will add some rise, about 3/4" I think. Then get a set of pro tapers in the suzuki factory bend. This combo is very close to renthal kuroyama 7/8" barsShould cost around $125 u.s. dollars for the whole setup I'm planning to get a set of these for mine soon.S3 Adjustable Handlebar Clamps These will give a bit of rise, which I need. Someone makes one similar but with a bit less rise, but I forget where I saw them. Are the bar clamps removable on the Rev3 then? Havnt actually looked. Pete, You could make them at work I could yeah, or if the standard clamps are removable i could just bore them out to suit fatter bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrandomapple Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 you could take the top yoke of and bore it out but the only removable part are the top clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkartoom Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) The bottom half of the Rev3 bar clamps are actually part of the top triple clamp casting itself. The bottom plate of the S3 adapters screws into them. The S3 clamps (regular or oversize) are attached to the bottom plate. If you look closely at the pic you'll see 3 pieces in the kit and that the bottom plate is actually machined to fit down into the stock clamp where the bar would be. Just need to toss the top half of your stock clamps in the bin and bolt these puppies on. Edited July 14, 2009 by mrkartoom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrandomapple Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 surly the rise is gunna be massive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sawtooth Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 surly the rise is gunna be massive Riser clamps and high rise bars might be too much. I might just take my yoke off bore it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrandomapple Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 Riser clamps and high rise bars might be too much. I might just take my yoke off bore it out. Or just keep the bars you got on it already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrkartoom Posted July 14, 2009 Report Share Posted July 14, 2009 surly the rise is gunna be massiveLooks like just over an inch. . . 30mm or so. Not so bad if you're taller and cramped a bit like me. Not sure how you'd mill out the stock clamps with the little meat on the top pieces. I'd have to look at them again, but maybe you guys already have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 V-mar top yoke and clamps will fix it properly, otherwise as Titanium says! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sawtooth Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 V-mar top yoke and clamps will fix it properly, otherwise as Titanium says! Only available in black though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronm Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 IMHO, You guys are heading in the wrong direction with different triple clamp, etc. The ProTaper adapter clamps give 3/4 " rise. If you check the ProTaper chart and the Renthal chart, you will find that the Factory Suzuki bend has approximately the same width and sweep as Renthal Kuroyama bars, EXCEPT they are 19mm lower. Since 19mm is pretty much equal to 3/4", you will have the same effect as before, but a much better setup. I used to change bars yearly for safety reasons, but I put on a set of ProTapers on my '04 Rev3 in 2005 and only recently changed them. Over hundreds of hours of riding and probably an equal number of crashes, I never managed to bend them. I only changed them because of wear under the throttle tube. You engineer types will appreciate that ProTaper bars are shot peened, which gives them a fatigue life far in excess of most of their competitiors. Take Titanium's advice and spend the money you will save on a set of ARC folding levers (RYP). You will then have a pretty much unbreakable set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 IMHO,You guys are heading in the wrong direction with different triple clamp, etc. The ProTaper adapter clamps give 3/4 " rise. If you check the ProTaper chart and the Renthal chart, you will find that the Factory Suzuki bend has approximately the same width and sweep as Renthal Kuroyama bars, EXCEPT they are 19mm lower. Since 19mm is pretty much equal to 3/4", you will have the same effect as before, but a much better setup. I used to change bars yearly for safety reasons, but I put on a set of ProTapers on my '04 Rev3 in 2005 and only recently changed them. Over hundreds of hours of riding and probably an equal number of crashes, I never managed to bend them. I only changed them because of wear under the throttle tube. You engineer types will appreciate that ProTaper bars are shot peened, which gives them a fatigue life far in excess of most of their competitiors. Take Titanium's advice and spend the money you will save on a set of ARC folding levers (RYP). You will then have a pretty much unbreakable set up. I was sort of hinting at that, Ron. But now with the input of the "experienced crasher" it seems a done deal unless you have the bucks for the top clamp! All the same applies to the earlier Sherco models as well I think. Another good quote from you! Good input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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