bobtlr Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 hey , my sherco 3.2 (2007) has a verry on-off clutch i only have 2-3 mm to work with on the leaver is this normal? it has always been like this but previous owner was a verry good rider so mayby he changed something to it? is there any way to adjust this (clutch doesn t slip and it doesnt stick so i guess its not used up) i now have castrol 10w40w in the bike. regards bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted August 12, 2009 Report Share Posted August 12, 2009 Check the top hat washers holding the clutch springs in are the right way around, possibly the springs may have been changed to uprated ones. Try moving the master cylinder closer to the centre of your bars so your finger gets greater leverage on the lever. Try some thicker oil maybe, stay within the factory spec though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Both my 2007 & 2009 4t's had a more "on-off" clutch than the Sherco 2t's. Since they use the same clutch as the 2t's I assume it's because of the different oils used or the fact that the oil is circulating through the motor. I got used to it, but never found a cure. Never really worked on it either though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 Some have reported a smoothing of the clutch using something like 20-50 w oil. Neo had his prefrence posted here somewhere, I am still running a thinner oil, less two springs. Less than perfect, but ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted August 13, 2009 Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 I think there was a related pressure build up on the 4st regarding the clutch?.....see AtomAnt..maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtlr Posted August 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2009 hey , i'm happy i'm not the onlyone who has this problem, would it be ok if i used single grade w 40 oil (spec is 15-50)? regards bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 hey ,i'm happy i'm not the onlyone who has this problem, would it be ok if i used single grade w 40 oil (spec is 15-50)? regards bob I cannot fathom why not! Best I recall, the clutch/ gear oil is separate from the motor oil on the 4T. Thus the separate drains, filters, etc. Someone correct me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Best I recall, the clutch/ gear oil is separate from the motor oil on the 4T. Thus the separate drains, filters, etc. Someone correct me! Your corrected. Their not separate. Only one filter, but three drains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autostream Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) I cannot fathom why not!Best I recall, the clutch/ gear oil is separate from the motor oil on the 4T. Thus the separate drains, filters, etc. Someone correct me! Nothing to do with the clutch issue, which I would like to see a solution to as mine is "abrupt" too... The oil is the same through out, but from what I can figure... Gearbox and clutch are lubed by oil thrown off the main gear on the clutch, this is picked up off the bottom of the engine same as the 2T gearbox oil and drained via the same screw. Piston and crank are lubed via splash from oil captured in a small reservoir around the base of the crank, separate drain for this. Top end roller bearings for cams, roller lifters etc are fed via oil picked up by the cam chain from a reservoir around the crank sprocket, with its own drain. There is a one way reed type valve that is used to transfer oil from somewhere to somewhere else, but I can't figure that out from parts book or anything. The oil filter is a small metal affair with about a 2mm hole in both ends and I don't see that it really does much. I am running semi synthetic 20W-50 but it did not help. I am thinking of tyring something like Automotive Mobil Rally one next. Edited August 15, 2009 by Autostream Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 16, 2009 Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 Nothing to do with the clutch issue, which I would like to see a solution to as mine is "abrupt" too...The oil is the same through out, but from what I can figure... Gearbox and clutch are lubed by oil thrown off the main gear on the clutch, this is picked up off the bottom of the engine same as the 2T gearbox oil and drained via the same screw. Piston and crank are lubed via splash from oil captured in a small reservoir around the base of the crank, separate drain for this. Top end roller bearings for cams, roller lifters etc are fed via oil picked up by the cam chain from a reservoir around the crank sprocket, with its own drain. There is a one way reed type valve that is used to transfer oil from somewhere to somewhere else, but I can't figure that out from parts book or anything. The oil filter is a small metal affair with about a 2mm hole in both ends and I don't see that it really does much. I am running semi synthetic 20W-50 but it did not help. I am thinking of tyring something like Automotive Mobil Rally one next. Well, ok then, I get the general layout, although I hav not disected one. You might still try the -2 setup on the springs, as it is easy to change. I have ridden it for the last year or so and love the light lever action. The "feel" can be a bit iffy, takes some adjustment, even running the ATF. In the 4T, I do think one could safely go with a light oil such as 5-20 with no lubrication problems and be more conducive to the light clutch. We run these oils in many cars nowdays that are much more highy stressed than a trials motor! If one rides the lower classes, he would probably never have an issue with the light clutch, as I can still get a good "pop" out of it when needed in the section gears, just need to let it fly and slam shut! I am still tinkering with springs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregrsv Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Hi Guys I too have thought the clutch to be a bit on/off, but i dont know if my symptoms are the same and it would be interesting to see if you guys can get the same effect as a get..... If you use the clutch in and out and know exactly where the "bite point is" then do a big climb eg high revs feeding the clutch in , then immediately (at the top of the climb say) do i tight bit that requires a bit of clutch has the "bite" point of your clutch changed . In the above example mine does the clutch will bite with the lever further in , then a few minutes later all is back to normal , I wondered if the heat caused by slipping the clutch was expanding something, and i also wondered if the on/off grab and the problem above is from one root cause? greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregrsv Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Hi Guys I too have thought the clutch to be a bit on/off, but i dont know if my symptoms are the same and it would be interesting to see if you guys can get the same effect as a get..... If you use the clutch in and out and know exactly where the "bite point is" then do a big climb eg high revs feeding the clutch in , then immediately (at the top of the climb say) do i tight bit that requires a bit of clutch has the "bite" point of your clutch changed . In the above example mine does the clutch will bite with the lever further in , then a few minutes later all is back to normal , I wondered if the heat caused by slipping the clutch was expanding something, and i also wondered if the on/off grab and the problem above is from one root cause? greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 Hi Guys I too have thought the clutch to be a bit on/off, but i dont know if my symptoms are the same and it would be interesting to see if you guys can get the same effect as a get..... If you use the clutch in and out and know exactly where the "bite point is" then do a big climb eg high revs feeding the clutch in , then immediately (at the top of the climb say) do i tight bit that requires a bit of clutch has the "bite" point of your clutch changed . In the above example mine does the clutch will bite with the lever further in , then a few minutes later all is back to normal , I wondered if the heat caused by slipping the clutch was expanding something, and i also wondered if the on/off grab and the problem above is from one root cause? greg As I do not have a 4T, all I can tell you are a couple things you might watch for. Poor venting of the gearbox due to a blocked hose I thinc can actually push the clutch slave back a bit, as it is sealed to the motor. On a 4T, I think there is a top vent that allows pressures to escape. Be sure these are clear and unrestricted. Under your stated set of conditions, high crankcase pressure may be developed! Seems there are actually few riders who can open these things up to begin with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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